Skeez

Have you a link to the vid .... there are loads and with my luck I'll choose the wrong one

Thanks

Simon

 

<<<@!1!@>>>

Hello Simon,

I hear ya about the vids. Almost too much info out there!

I'm going to give you two links because I am not sure what style connectors your bike has. I am going to guess that your motorcycle based on the year will have DEUTCH connectors. If so, the video below is perfect for showing you how to remove the plastic plug in order to run your wires through your bars.

A note on this video about DEUTSCH connectors: Bob really emphasizes that the orange weather rubber seal MUST remain intact! You might think that if you accidentally pull it out (which you most likely will as you remove the wires from the housing) that you've just destroyed your connector! Don't panic. What he means to say is that you have to make sure that the seal is in place once the connector is reassembled. So when you disassemble your plugs (assuming this is the type on your bike) and this rubber seal comes out, just insert it back in before you begin to put everything back together.

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/deutsc...ectors-002123/

My bike has the MOLEX style which is the video below. The example that he shows is slightly different in the that plugs for the controls have the locking face set further into the plug. However, the concept for taking a Molex connector apart is exactly as he shows it.

Two words of note for this style: When pulling the face of the connector out you have to be pretty careful. It may take a bit more of a tug then you might expect but if you really yank on it you can break the inner tabs of that face and pull it right out of the plugs. If this happens you either have to repair the tabs with super glue or if that doesn't work you'll have to replace the connector housing.

Also, the tool he uses that looks like a wire pick can be made and you don't need to but anything special. I made one using a slightly large sewing needle. I grab it securely with a set of hemostats (small locking needle nose pliers used in surgery or in sport fishing to remove hooks from fish) and using the point of the needle to insert into each of the holes to release the wires from the plug.



Hope this helps.

 

Did you have any problem with length on the brake or clutch cables? Did you have to adjust the clutch or bleed the brakes? I know you did throttle by wire, but do you think the throttle cables would have reached?

 

Brilliant

Thanks so much !!!

 

Hey Bud,

Sorry for making things confusing. I've been giving you bits of info assuming that you were aware of all that might be required to do a bar swap. Totally cool if you don't. We all have to start somewhere. Also, apologies for making any assumptions about what you do or don't know. Just trying to be helpful.

I think that in order to help you get an understanding of what you need we have to regroup and start at the beginning.

Whenever you change your handlebars on your motorcycle you have to determine if your existing wires and cables will work with the new bars. In other words; will the length of your existing wires and cables be long enough (or too long) for the new bars that you are installing. Besides the bars, you have to take into account any change in risers and how the height of the risers will effect the overall height of your new set-up.

When talking about a bar swap you'll hear the terms wires and cables. "Wires" refers to the wires that run from your switches to where they connect under the tank as well as the wires for turn signals if in fact you plan to mount your turn signals onto the new bars (many people tend to relocate their signals to the forks and thus don't usually worry about wire extensions for those). Also, any wires for other electronics you might have or plan to have on your bars need to be considered. Extending wires is most commonly done one of two ways; cutting the wires and then soldering extensions onto them or ordering a kit that is plug-and-play and if manufactured correctly has all the same style wire plugs and wire colors to match your application. When ordering one of these kits, it's important to consider if you will be mounting your turn signals on the bars. Some manufacturers give you the option to include turn signal extensions or not. If you are going from taller/longer bars to shorter ones then you obviously don't need to extend your wires but that doesn't mean you have to cut them and make them shorter either. Most people opt to take the extra length and tuck it under the tank.

When "cables" are mentioned, this refers to the clutch cable, the throttle and idle cables and also includes the break line even though it's a hose and technically not a "cable". These items usually can't be extended or shortened and if you need longer or shorter ones for your new bars then you must buy a new set based on your application.


ALL THAT SAID; the first thing you need to do when swapping bars is determining if you'll need to extend you wires and cables. If you do, you then have to determine what length you will need. Most handle bar manufacturers can provide you with this information. Again, remember to take any change in risers into account.

This will most often lead to one of two outcomes. 1. You WILL have to extend or shorten your wires and cables thus needing to buy the necessary replacements. ...OR... 2. You DO NOT need to extend or shorten your wires and cables. In this case, you may still need to consider if your CURRENT set-up is not wired internally and you want to run your wires internally. It's quite possible that running your wires on the inside may take up some of the length that you currently have making for a bit of a reach with the wires. You may not know whether or not this is the case until you install the new bars with the wires run internally. If you find that the reach is tight, especially when you turn the forks all the way left or right then it may be advisable to go with a short extension. Another thing to consider in this option is your break line. If you are going from a horizontal style bar such as a beach bar to something totally different such as apes, then the fitting on the reservoir end may differ, causing routing or even length issues. The fitting on a break line for apes is relatively straight to allow the line to run down the bars vertically. The fitting on break lines for bars like beach bars will have more of a 90 degree angle to allow the line to run horizontally along the bars. If the style of bars you are switching to are similar then this shouldn't be an issue.

Now, based on one of the two conclusions above you have to determine how much work will be involved to do the complete install.

If you DO need to extend OR shorten all your wires and cables then the following will most likely apply:

1. The gas tank will need to be removed. This allows you to access the plugs to your control wires. Some people say you can slide the tank back without removing it to get to the wire plugs but I've had no luck on two bikes with this method. Also, you'll need to remove the tank anyway in order to route your new throttle and idle cables which have guides under the tank that you need to run them through. If your crossover line is stock, you will incur an additional expense of new clamps because the stock ones have to be cut.

2. The complete air filter assembly will need to be removed. This will provide the access necessary to disconnect your current idle and throttle cables and connect the new ones and to make your final adjustments to those cables. This process will possibly incur an additional cost of a new air filter backing plate/throttle body gasket.

3. The transmission side cover will need to be removed in order to disconnect the current clutch cable and the new one installed. This will incur the additional cost of a new side cover gasket which MUST be replaced and a quart of tranny oil because you'll need to drain your transmission before pulling off the side cover. Also, if your new cable does not come with a new o-ring (it seals where the cable goes into the cover) you may want to get a new one depending on the condition of your current one. Additionally, you'll need to do a clutch cable adjustment which will require the removal of your derby cover. If you have a disposable gasket under that cover then you will need to replace it.

Based on your application, all or part of the exhaust may need to be removed in order to make clearance to remove the trans side cover. Chances are if you are running stock exhaust or something similar to stock then it will need to come off. This will incur the additional cost of new exhaust port gaskets which are a one time use item. (We got so LUCKY with my brother's 2008 Rocker C with Vance and Hines Big Radius pipes. There was plenty of clearance behind the pipes to get the cover on and off!)

3. You will need to drain your front break system to replace the new line. This will obviously require the expense of new fluid (make sure you use the correct type. DOT4, DOT5, etc.) and if your new line does not come with them, you will need new banjo bolt washers for both the reservoir end as well as the caliper end. Two at each end for a total of four. The reservoir washers are slightly different than the ones that go down at the caliper so make sure you get both types. The dealer should be able to get you what you need if you just tell them your're replacing the line. You will then need to properly bleed the front break.

4. In order to run your wires internally you will need to know how to disassemble the plugs. You will want to make sure that the openings in the bars where the wire bundles pass through are either very smooth or have some sort of protective grommet to keep the wires from chaffing and causing a short.

5. Of course this leaves the more obvious stuff like removing and installing the break and clutch levers and clamps. Removing and installing mirrors and grips. If you are currently running stock grips then you may want to determine if you want to change to a new style of grip. Most people/shops CUT the left side grip in order to remove it from the bars. Also, most shops/people used glue when installing the left side grip. I've never used glue on the left grip nor have I had to cut the stock one to remove it. I simply twist it hard back and forth like it were a throttle grip and the glue will break and the grip will pull from from the bars.

If you are NOT extending your cables then you may be able to get away with only the removal of the tank (or maybe the sliding back of the tank will work for you as it seems to work for some other people). You'll only need access to the wire plugs so that you can disconnect and disassemble them to run wires through your bars. Again, keep in mind that routing your wires through your bars can possibly take up some of the reach. It's important that once you wire you bars and assemble the plugs. Mock everything up BEFORE installing the fuel tank. Test your wire length by turning your forks all the way left and right. You should be able to do so with no pulling or tension at the wire plugs. If you see that the plugs are being pulled even slightly then you may want to consider a short extension.

Even if you are not replacing all your cables it may still be necessary to play with the routing. For the break line, this may mean that you loosen it at the reservoir in order to turn it a bit if necessary for your new routing. It's possible to loosen that banjo bolt just enough to be able to turn the line without introducing air into the system. You just have to be careful not to to loosen the bolt more than a quarter turn or so.

As I said in my earlier response, the job of running wires internally through the bars should not take so long. Especially with beach bars which have very gradual bends. When I did my beach bars, I didn't even need to use a line or guide like we did to pull the wires through my brother's ape bars. I was able to just work the existing wire bundle through the bars which are pretty straight.

I hope this is not too much info and you can glean something from it. The task seems daunting but totally doable for the average wrencher. Or at the very least, you might get a better idea of what the dealer may be charging you for if you have them do the install.

Any questions are more than welcome.

Good luck.

 

Great write up Skeez ....

One question ... is it possible or even advisable to internally run the wires through 1" bars which aren't pre drilled as such ?

Or is discretion the better part of valour and run them externally ?

Thanks

Simon

 

Thanks Simon,

Internally wiring 1 inch bars is perfectly acceptable. Lots of people will run throttle cables through such bars so just running your wires through the same pipe is not an issue. The most important things is that the holes through which the wire bundle pass through need to be both adequate in size and either have very smooth edges or have some sort of grommet installed to protect your wires from chaffing which can lead to electrical shorts. If you can, look up a set of bars such as fat apes or beach bars on Harley Davidson's site. Follow the link the the installation instructions. It's usually a PDF file that you can download. Study the pictures that show how the wire bundle is run through their bars. This should give you a good idea of where to drill your holes and how to rout everything.

When I get some time, I'll pull out a set of my bars out and take pictures and try to give an illustration of how things work. One detail is that every set of bars that I have used that are pre-drilled have oval shaped openings as apposed to just a round hole.

 

yeah, yeah, 15 minutes tops in you use zip ties. (I'm just kidding - put away the flamethrowers!!!)

 

Again thanks !

 

That is the most amazing, comprehensive answer to a question I have ever seen! I tip my hat to you, sir! With such a thorough answer, I now feel obligated to do the job. The service manual was ordered yesterday, so I'll have some pictures on how to do the takedown. I look forward to the challenge. Thanks for everyone's help.