7 hours for internal wires?
#31
10-21-2014, 01:35 PM
#32
10-21-2014, 01:42 PM
Thanks for that. I still hold out hope that the shorter riser will allow me to skip everything other than tank removal. I already changed to braided cables, so I'm hoping they'll be long enough so that I don't have to replace them. That would suck both from a cost and an effort standpoint.
#33
10-21-2014, 01:53 PM
Tourer
#34
10-21-2014, 06:07 PM
I spoke to Burley today. They make the bars pre-drilled with a single hole for both wires in the center, and holes under the switch housings at the grip end. The 1" bars are about 3/4" narrower than the 1.25" bars. Which way to go? The ease of pull through the larger bar or the shorter width you need to cover on the smaller bar? Does it even matter? BTW, THE 1" bar is $60 less.
#35
10-21-2014, 07:44 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
#36
10-22-2014, 06:17 AM
I spoke to Burley today. They make the bars pre-drilled with a single hole for both wires in the center, and holes under the switch housings at the grip end. The 1" bars are about 3/4" narrower than the 1.25" bars. Which way to go? The ease of pull through the larger bar or the shorter width you need to cover on the smaller bar? Does it even matter? BTW, THE 1" bar is $60 less.
#37
10-22-2014, 08:29 AM
Clutch and brake lengths are still good, Unless you are changing out the clutch or brake cable or master cylinder there is no need to disconnect the clutch or brake. Other than to remove from bars and reinstall on new bars. No bleeding or adjustment required. Throttle cable should work, I replaced mine but as said went internal and needed more length, maybe someone else can chime in for a definite answer.
I used 1" bars and wires and throttle cable fitted through with no problems, the bends are not tight on beach bars.
I used 1" bars and wires and throttle cable fitted through with no problems, the bends are not tight on beach bars.
#38
10-22-2014, 08:39 AM
I went with LA choppers risers. Most websites will have a year/model selector to verify they will fit.
This really was a very easy mod to do. Including the internal throttle took me about 6 hours. Tank did not have to come off, just be very careful moving it back as far as the crossover pipe will allow.
This really was a very easy mod to do. Including the internal throttle took me about 6 hours. Tank did not have to come off, just be very careful moving it back as far as the crossover pipe will allow.
#39
10-22-2014, 09:12 AM
Stellar HDF Member
I spoke to Burley today. They make the bars pre-drilled with a single hole for both wires in the center, and holes under the switch housings at the grip end. The 1" bars are about 3/4" narrower than the 1.25" bars. Which way to go? The ease of pull through the larger bar or the shorter width you need to cover on the smaller bar? Does it even matter? BTW, THE 1" bar is $60 less.
As for the width? I would say that rather than comparing the two different bars that you want to get, I would consider their width relative to your CURRENT bars. If it's pretty close or the same then you should be good to go.
The diameter won't really make that much of a difference getting the wires in. I would say that as far as diameter goes you should decide based on what look you prefer. I tend to like 1.25 width simply because that diameter gives a more consistent look when compared to other aspects of my bike such as the frame, the engine guard (if I am running one), etc. 1 inch bars are more traditional look and I would run them on something like a bobber for that old school touch. Bottom line is, this is more of an aesthetic thing and running your wires through either diameter bars will be relatively easy. Beach bars are one of the most forgiving bars when it comes to wiring internally.
#40
11-07-2014, 05:13 PM
<<<@!1!@>>>
Hello Simon,
I hear ya about the vids. Almost too much info out there!
I'm going to give you two links because I am not sure what style connectors your bike has. I am going to guess that your motorcycle based on the year will have DEUTCH connectors. If so, the video below is perfect for showing you how to remove the plastic plug in order to run your wires through your bars.
A note on this video about DEUTSCH connectors: Bob really emphasizes that the orange weather rubber seal MUST remain intact! You might think that if you accidentally pull it out (which you most likely will as you remove the wires from the housing) that you've just destroyed your connector! Don't panic. What he means to say is that you have to make sure that the seal is in place once the connector is reassembled. So when you disassemble your plugs (assuming this is the type on your bike) and this rubber seal comes out, just insert it back in before you begin to put everything back together.
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/deutsc...ectors-002123/
My bike has the MOLEX style which is the video below. The example that he shows is slightly different in the that plugs for the controls have the locking face set further into the plug. However, the concept for taking a Molex connector apart is exactly as he shows it.
Two words of note for this style: When pulling the face of the connector out you have to be pretty careful. It may take a bit more of a tug then you might expect but if you really yank on it you can break the inner tabs of that face and pull it right out of the plugs. If this happens you either have to repair the tabs with super glue or if that doesn't work you'll have to replace the connector housing.
Also, the tool he uses that looks like a wire pick can be made and you don't need to but anything special. I made one using a slightly large sewing needle. I grab it securely with a set of hemostats (small locking needle nose pliers used in surgery or in sport fishing to remove hooks from fish) and using the point of the needle to insert into each of the holes to release the wires from the plug.
Molex Connector on Harley | Fix My Hog - YouTube
Hope this helps.
Hello Simon,
I hear ya about the vids. Almost too much info out there!
I'm going to give you two links because I am not sure what style connectors your bike has. I am going to guess that your motorcycle based on the year will have DEUTCH connectors. If so, the video below is perfect for showing you how to remove the plastic plug in order to run your wires through your bars.
A note on this video about DEUTSCH connectors: Bob really emphasizes that the orange weather rubber seal MUST remain intact! You might think that if you accidentally pull it out (which you most likely will as you remove the wires from the housing) that you've just destroyed your connector! Don't panic. What he means to say is that you have to make sure that the seal is in place once the connector is reassembled. So when you disassemble your plugs (assuming this is the type on your bike) and this rubber seal comes out, just insert it back in before you begin to put everything back together.
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/deutsc...ectors-002123/
My bike has the MOLEX style which is the video below. The example that he shows is slightly different in the that plugs for the controls have the locking face set further into the plug. However, the concept for taking a Molex connector apart is exactly as he shows it.
Two words of note for this style: When pulling the face of the connector out you have to be pretty careful. It may take a bit more of a tug then you might expect but if you really yank on it you can break the inner tabs of that face and pull it right out of the plugs. If this happens you either have to repair the tabs with super glue or if that doesn't work you'll have to replace the connector housing.
Also, the tool he uses that looks like a wire pick can be made and you don't need to but anything special. I made one using a slightly large sewing needle. I grab it securely with a set of hemostats (small locking needle nose pliers used in surgery or in sport fishing to remove hooks from fish) and using the point of the needle to insert into each of the holes to release the wires from the plug.
Molex Connector on Harley | Fix My Hog - YouTube
Hope this helps.