Oh my gosh - what the h...l?! I can't seem to measure any continuity on EITHER of them - the plug wires. Now I'm certainly a novice but if I touch a lead to each end of piece of metal, the continuity tester rings out. But when I touch a prong to each end of the plug wire - nothing! Could both wires have gone bad at exactly the same time? Or could the failure of a coil, ignition module, or crank sensor have burned the plug wires out? I just can't imagine how both wires could not have continuity - just like that! What say you?

 

LOL.....easy fella LOL....ok ...one probe on one end and the other probe on the opposite end.....this method is a "step by step" procedure ......

 

OK I'm calm! The one boot (spark plug) is kind of deep so I stuck a screw driver down in one end while the other end (coil) was easy to get the probe to. Then I put the first probe on the screw driver, second probe to the exposed connector and nothing. Just checked it again! Just can't imagine how both plug wires could have gone bad on a moments notice, unless they got "burned out" over the failure of something else.

 

Not sure how familiar you are with Digital Multimeter's but I suspect that you have it selected for continuity testing, where it needs to be set to Ohms because the HT leads are not solid wires, but resistance type cores.

Doing the pilot light test on the Low Voltage connector for the coil would give you a good indication whether there's a problem with the ECM, CPS, ........... and if that test is good, then it's most certainly an ignition coil or HT lead problem.

 

Hello 1004Ron. The SHORT wire came in at 2.6 on the 20K setting on the ohms tester. The LONG wire came in at 5.4. Before I bought the new coil, I had tried to test the coil according to my Clymer manual. Well the test results didn't come in any where near what it was supposed to, on ANY setting, so I bought the new one. Well when I got the new one it tested about the same so go figure. So I suppose I was testing them wrong. Not sure how to test the other items you mentioned. If you are getting bored with this by now I understand. Thanks.

 

12.2 is real low, if that is with the battery fully charged then you need a new battery, cranking that is going to bring the voltage down so low that anyting else will keep it from getting any spark.
I would take the battery somewhere and have it tested.

 

The manual calls for 4750-11,230 ohms for the long
1812-4375 ohms short cable.
I have never been able to read ohmage so maybe ron or professor could put more light on this.
No we don't get tired of helping people who are willing to try, and learn, what we get tired of is people who ask questions then never reply to our answers.

 

you can go on youtube and learn all the functions on your multimeter....to get up to speed . as Harley cruiser stated.....make certain that battery is good....get a load test done . you own a battery charger ?

 

Subscribed.

 

Your HT cables look good
Long one came in at 5.4 kilo-ohm kΩ and manual lists 4.7 ~ 11.2 kilo-ohm kΩ
Short one came in at 2.6 kilo-ohm kΩ and the manual lists 1.8 ~ 4.47 kilo-ohm kΩ
With the HT leads confirmed good, you need to focus on the primary side of the ignition coil.

Make up a 12v test lamp and with the ignition turned on connected it first between the ign. coils connector pin that you previously measured power on to ground. It should light up.
If it did light up, leave the one side connected to the pin with power and the other side to one of the other pins, then crank the engine.
If the ECM has all the conditions met to fire up, you should see the pilot lamp pulse on and off as the ECM draws the one side of the pilot lamp to ground, as it would do if the ign. coil was connected.

Is it possible to post the ign. coil schematic for your bike and I can PhotoShop it to show how to connect the pilot lamp for testing, or a photo of your ign. coil connector.