Changing the tires on my '08 fatty, first time DIY. I was having the dealer do it but it is just to expensive for me now. I have some questions that I am hoping the experts (that's you guys) can help with.

1 I had a difficult time getting the mufflers off with those tiny bolts. I can't believe MoCo can't come up with a different method there. I wanted to loosen the muffler bracket and slide both mufflers and the bracket off as one piece. After loosening all the clamps and taking the nuts off the muffler bracket frame mount, I could not pull the bracket off the frame studs. Once I removed the bottom muffler, voila, it came right off. Not sure what removing the bottom muffler did to free it up. Any, what do you guys do to remove the mufflers? Is there a better way?

2 Unless there is an easier way to remove the mufflers, is there any reason the axle cannot be reversed so that the mufflers are a non issue for a tire change?

3 It was a really tight fit pulling the caliper off. I was afraid I was going to scratch the wheel. Any tips here?

4 On my front wheel, I think the shop screwed up the spacers on the last tire change. I noticed that the lines on the spacers indicate whether the end is chamfered or not. I think the non chamfered end has the lines. Anyway I have read that the chamfered end goes to the wheel. The spacer on the right side had the lines pointing to the wheel. It looked like it was now chamfered on both ends. Not sure if it was caused by wear of what. Any opinions here?

5 Seems the last mechanic that removed the front wheel also buggered up the heads on the button screws... I had to hold my breath backing them off fearing they would strip out. I would like to replace them with a cap screw or hex. This seems like a hokey set up to me too. BTW my manual shows hex bolts there not button screws. Anyone know the size to replace them?

Overall if I was working for Harley I would have a long suggestion list. Maybe its planned dealer service design. There is a lot of metal migration on many of the fasteners on the bike. I have been anti-seizing them as I come across them. I had a tough time backing out the belt deflector bolt that goes into the frame. Thought is was going to snap.

I don't drive a lot in the rain and my bikes are kept in the garage. I can't imagine how much corrosion there is on bikes that are not.

As always...thanks guys.....

 

I am about to tackle this task for the first time as well. When you put all back together how did you do alignment and belt check?

SUP

 

Don't have it back together but I took measurements of the jack screws and counted the number of turns. It should all go back to where it was.

 

Don't reverse the rear axle. Make sure you grease or never seize both axles good. Never had to pull the exhaust. On some bikes I have had, I have had to remove the shocks or lift bike high enough that the rear axle was below the exhaust.
For the front cap bolts, some of them are metric and people screw them up using a SAE allen on them. Also, I usually have the front end in the air when I put it back together as it seems easier to torque the bolts without stripping them and it makes it easier to make your alignments.

 

1. Shouldn't have to remove mufflers. Raise it high enough to get the axle out.
2. Don't reverse the axle. Just don't.
3. All rear calipers are like that unless you get bigger wheels, no going around that. Sometimes it's easier to pull the bracket with it.
4. Spacers aren't directional for sealed bearings.
5. Some pinch bolts are torx (rare), most are 5 or 6mm.. don't remember off the top of my head, I just grab the socket that fits. Very easy to strip though, happens more than you think.

 

I used a flex head ratchet wrench on the bolts for the mufflers, and removed the rear brake pads then removed the caliper. And with the bike on the lift there is enough slack in the belt I did not need to loosen the adjustment bolts and put the axle in from the other side when the wheel was put back on.

 

Well I'm going against the grain here. I reversed the rear axel and have done so on my last three bikes. No problemo that I've seen. When I lift the rear tire to remove I leave it just touching the table. This way I'm able to remove axel without messing with the adjusters and reinstall with not much problem. I do have a laser I use to ck alignment but it's usually spot on after the first time doing an alignment but I always ck. As you know the cost of rear tires takes your breath away(and your cash). I changed out my pipes first thing cause I'm a 2 into 1 guy but it's still easier to pull the axel with it reversed. I changed out the two front cap bolts with 12pt stainless bolts from Alloyboltz. Their bolts are a high grade of stainless tougher than grade 8. Don't use stainless from the hardware store because it's cheese soft and easy to snap off. I can't see any difference in the spacers. I'm sure the double line means something but with sealed bearings it isn't going to change anything either way. Just my .02 worth.

 

I, too, have reversed the axle on several bikes. I have had no bike problems doing that. I have also removed shock bolts and dropped the swing arm. When changing bolts check to see if metric or SAE. I had a shop replace a rear fender with an after market one. The shop doing the work put my stainless SAE bolts into the metric welted on fender mounts. It was months later when I tried to remove the rear fender that I found out what they had done.

 

Guys.. thanks for all your input.

I have my bike on a pitbull lift and it's way up off the ground. The axle is hanging as much as it can. There is no way I could have gotten the shaft out without removing the mufflers sad to say.

Snowyone...Do you have a partnumber for the bolts you bought for the axle cap?


You are appreciated..

 

Check out Ronnie's HD parts finder. Put it into your favorites as it is a handy site.

http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/