Bike only starts in neutral, when put in gear it takes off.


New Magnum Chromite II clutch cable installed.


New Barnett clutch diaphragm spring installed and metric bolts torqued to spec in manual.


Inner ramp in place with tab in keyed opening, all 3 ***** in their respective individual spots on the inner ramp, outer ramp in place, retaining ring in place with the opening at the specified location.


All this done with lots of slack in the clutch cable.


Opened clutch inspection cover, adjusted screw to where it met resistance, then backed off 1/2 a turn, and locked down jam nut.


I removed slack on cable by tightening cable to 1/16th' play using adjuster on cable.


Where'd I go wrong? As soon as I put it in gear the bike takes off.

 

Try another 1/4 turn out on the adjustment screw, tighten the jam nut and see if it stops creeping...

 

my sporty did that after I replaced the clutches, I had a bad clutch bearing, it's the one that sits behind the basket, and mine was pretty wobbly. Even after I fixed it, my clutches still "stick" and grab a little when I put it in gear. Does your bike do it after it's warmed up? Talking about the 2010 in your sig? I doubt your clutch bearing is bad being so new. You would have probably noticed the wobble when you were in the primary. Did you put an extra plate in or anything?

 

It's been a while since I did a clutch adjustment. Sounds like you have the major parts taken care of.

Two things come to mind:

1. Make sure the clutch adjustment is made when the bike is cold, not at riding temperature.

2. Instead of 1/2 turn back off, try to go to 1/4 turn.

Sounds like 1/2 turn may be too far out and there isn't enough length to compress the new diaphragm spring. 1/4 turn should get you a little closer and allow that spring to compress.

 

Well guys you may want to check your manual again....

I just did my adjustment today before a leaving for a long trip and it says to back the screw out 3/4 to 1 full turn ...

 

I just tried it backed out up to 1 full turn, tried it without turning it back out, and even tried it turned in.
I pumped the clutch cable many, many, times, nada.
Bike won't start in gear, and as soon as you put it in gear it takes off.

 

bike is cold.
when I back out the adjustment screw I have to take up the slack in the cable using the adjuster on the cable.

 

Possible one of the clutch disc's is not sitting flat or is binding, that could be causing the clutch unit to NOT disengage.
Could have happened when everything was opened up for the new diaphragm spring. You should be able to roll the bike with the engine off and the bike in gear with the clutch lever pull in to check it out without having the danger of the engine running and launching at gear engagement.

 

This is my thoughts as well, and definitely do the testing without starting the engine.

Before tearing into it, with the derby cover off check to see that you have good linear travel of the clutch adjusting screw and diaphragm spring, ....... if not, look at the ***** and ramp.

 

Id begin by trying it with all free play removed from the cable. Try doing a few dry hops to get the clutch pack bedded in. If it still creeps then id pull the stack and measure it with oil wiped clean from both fibers and steels. Compare your measurement against what the factory shop manual calls for. When you reinstall try to make sure you orientate the steels with the stamped side going in the same direction. Also make sure that there is nothing in the back surface of the basket thats preventing the stack from seating properly. How hard is it dragging when you snick it into gear?