Ok, I'm ashamed to admit I have let my 2008 fatboy sit way too long without cranking. I tried to start it today, and this is what I get:

-- No fuel pump sound when I turn the ignition on; always has been very loud, but the pump is not running
-- Loud clicking (~2 clicks per second)
-- Voltage is ~12.8V when not cranking; battery has been on a tender
-- No corrosion on positive or negative cables; removed and reconnected both but no change
-- All 15 amp fuses under seat meg out fine; I didn't check the two relays to see if either one had failed

I'm open to any troubleshooting starting tips. I just pumped out all of the fuel, and I'm about to refill with fresh fuel. That has nothing to with this, but that's what I'm working on now. I appreciate any help with this one.

We also let the wife's sportster sit as well, but that's a different story...

 

Check the fuel pump fuse.
Loud clicking sounds like weak battery.
What is your battery voltage when under a load?

Try using jumper cables from a NON-RUNNING vehicle to see if it is the battery or not.

 

Some battery tenders may not keep it fully charged. Put it on a 2 amp trickle charger for a couple of hours.

 

I put a set of cables on it last night to see I could get it to jump, but there was no change. I also (without realizing I shouldn't) cranked the vehicle it was jumping from. It didn't make a difference, but I'm reading there is a potential the voltage regulator could be damaged from that. I just put the 2A charger on it, but the voltage reading on the charger is 12.8V (I'll need to check it when trying to start). Also, the battery tender cuts off with a green light to indicate a full charge.

If the battery were weak, should I still hear the fuel pump run when I switch the ignition on, unless it were really weak?

I also checked all of the fuses in the box with a meter, and none were blown. I pulled the fuel pump fuse to physical inspect it, and it looked fine.

 

Well, here is an update. I have the trickle charger on it now, but I checked the voltage as I tried to crank it. It started at 12.2V (down from 12.8V last night), and dropped down to 6V while cranking, and then it came back up to 11.3V and climbing while sitting. I would say the battery is bad. I'll see if the trickle will help for a few hours so I can confirm, but this one likely has to go.

 

Perhaps the battery is defective.
My Son had a car that was sitting for about 6 months on a tender.

When he went to start it, it wouldn't turn over or even jump start.
We put a battery in from another vehicle and it fired right up.

Apparently the battery developed a short during the down time.

Try disconnecting the battery all together and put some jumper cables from the battery cables to another battery and see if things come alive.
It might even try to turnover.

That will tell you that if likely the battery is bad.

 

Sure sounds like how my '02 Sportster behaved (minus the fuel pump behavior since it was carbed) when one cell in the battery (aftermarket) went bad.

Battery not under load tested mid 12's for voltage, and the tender would indicate it was charged and running in float mode. Initially loud clicking, then nothing, when trying to start. Dropped to 9ish volts under load.

Early after this behavior started, jump starting would work. Later on, it wouldn't even start when jumping off my truck battery.

Took it to autozone - they said 'no good' after doing load test.

Replaced with HD battery. Never had another problem with it.

 

I'm.betting a new battery will fire it up.

My 02 sat in the garage for 4-5 years without a battery tender, put a brand new battery in it, did a full fluid service on it (engine, primary and transmission), dumped fresh gas in it and fired right up.

 

I'll try that first. Is HD the leading place to go for a replacement? I don't mind waiting for an order to arrive, though.

 

This is what I'm thinking. I haven't called HD to see the price on their replacement. I read on different forum post where these are similar.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html