Unidentifyable Start Problem
#52
10-06-2015, 06:34 PM
#53
10-07-2015, 09:50 AM
Stellar HDF Member
All of this could have been easily solved if HD was up to speed on EFI and included a fuel pressure sensor on its bikes... duh.
C#
#54
10-07-2015, 09:53 AM
#55
10-09-2015, 10:10 PM
Splatttt, still looking for that thanks button. 
I don't know if it means anything, but I've noticed that if I wait about 5-10 seconds AFTER the dash lights go out before trying to start the bike it seems to behave much better when starting. I've always waited for the lights to go out, but the extra delay seeming to improve things is curious..
I don't know if it means anything, but I've noticed that if I wait about 5-10 seconds AFTER the dash lights go out before trying to start the bike it seems to behave much better when starting. I've always waited for the lights to go out, but the extra delay seeming to improve things is curious..Yep , we are all a little superstitious . My W/G rarely kicks-back when trying to start but I've found that pulling out the choke a little always helps it to start easier when HOT !
#56
10-10-2015, 03:10 AM
did someone say a compensator going bad? I think you nailed it. Searching on this you have all the symptoms of one thats gone or going bad.
http://www.hdopenroad.com/panmans-ga...ensator-blues/
http://www.hdopenroad.com/panmans-ga...ensator-blues/
#57
10-10-2015, 07:01 AM
As RobbAR mentioned... Though it seemed to help, it did NOT eliminate all the symptoms.
PitBull's bike is of a 07 vintage and could very well benefit from an updated comp, but there may be more to his problem than meets the eye.
E8BUSMCRET, any updates?
PitBull's bike is of a 07 vintage and could very well benefit from an updated comp, but there may be more to his problem than meets the eye.
Could be the compensator....My 08 Fatboy would do the same thing...If it was hot sometimes it would act like it was a low battery and then make a hard knocking sound and kick back...and cough through the throttle body...replaced the compensator and the for the most part fixed the problem...every once in a while it will clunk and spit through the throttle body but not near as often...I replaced the stock compensator with a Screaming Eagle one and shortly after they revised the part number and have an improved version....
#58
10-10-2015, 09:21 AM
Tourer
Change the fuel filter if you have 50k on it and it has not been done. The pipe in the tank from the pump to the filter is prone to crack after 5 years or so it will give you bad throttle response in high gear do to lack off pressure. Starting problems also relative to the fuel level in the tank. Change the pipe too, also when it has one of its temper tantrums and won't go, release the disconnect for the fuel line from the tank no tools needed this will tell you if the line is pressurized with fuel or with a bit of air in it. Once you take it off it will drip a bit put it back on and wait for it to prime up before starting.
#59
10-10-2015, 03:18 PM
Well, on the compensator, I have absolutely no primary noise. I thought about pin holes in the tank fuel lines, but it doesn't matter if the tanks is full or empty, it still acts up when starting hot. Also, no bubbles or currents can be seen in the tank when the pump is pressuring up. It's still not throwing any codes. The fuel filter has never been changed, but I would think that would create a problem hot or cold, not just hot.
The bigger battery cables helped some because now the engine can't over power the starter, which was not the case with the stock cables.
The bike runs fine and performance is good. Just took a 900 mile trip to Galveston last week and I found that it will fire right up 90% of the time if I hit the start button right after the fuel pump builds up pressure. That works better than delaying the start for 5-10 seconds after the dash lights go out.
It 's the heat thing that's bugging me. When it's cold it barely takes a revolution of the starter to fire up. And, up until a couple of months ago that's the way it started, hot or cold..
The bigger battery cables helped some because now the engine can't over power the starter, which was not the case with the stock cables.
The bike runs fine and performance is good. Just took a 900 mile trip to Galveston last week and I found that it will fire right up 90% of the time if I hit the start button right after the fuel pump builds up pressure. That works better than delaying the start for 5-10 seconds after the dash lights go out.
It 's the heat thing that's bugging me. When it's cold it barely takes a revolution of the starter to fire up. And, up until a couple of months ago that's the way it started, hot or cold..
Last edited by Pitbull_Dallas; 10-10-2015 at 03:39 PM.
#60
10-10-2015, 03:45 PM
The "heat thing"... Isn't the bike equipped with with some fail safe system that interrupts starting it if it senses an over heating problem?
Could be that what ever electronic sensor that allows for this function is goin. Shot in the dark.
Remember, I is no tech! Just like to over think ****
Could be that what ever electronic sensor that allows for this function is goin. Shot in the dark.
Remember, I is no tech! Just like to over think ****