Yeah, I used the blocks and 4x4's under the frame to hold the bike off the ground. This left the entire shock exposed from front to back for easy access.
Then I used the jack (with a small piece of plywood) to move the rear wheel up and down.
You need to move the wheel up pretty far in order to get the stock shocks out, since the front bolts don't come out of the shock.
Then I would move the wheel back down (with a helper) as I guided the Shotgun into place in the front in order to get those bolts in...

 

Don't forget to take out the jounce bumper too.

 

Um...you got me on that one. What's a jounce bumper?

 

I have to correct myself: the service manual calls for blue Locktite. Not sure what Harley used at the factory, but I'm betting getting those bolts out will be a lot easier this time than it was the first. Maybe I'm just hoping that...

 

I think he's talking about the rubber bump stop at the top of the frame where the swing arm would contact the frame in the event of bottoming out.
If you remove it, your bike will sit lower when slammed (with air dumped from shock). Some guys even resort to grinding down the frame at that point to acheive an uber-slammed look.
The drawback is that if you ever bottom out while riding, it doesn't feel good (or sound good). Your drive belt may also contact the casing where it feeds out of the primary and your swingarm may contact the oilbag, as well.
I removed it and the only problem I've had is that painful feeling on bottom-out. That doesn't necessarily hurt anything (but the rider), but it's good to check all points for clearance if you decide to remove it...

 

Yeah, I bet you're right. I passed on the lowering idea last year when I did the Progressive Monotubes. I got the regular length, so I'll be staying at regular height in the rear also. Lots of different looks on these bikes and none of them are wrong. "To each his own."

 

If you've already broken the shoulder bolts once, then I stand corrected. It should be pretty straight-forward and you probably won't break a sweat. The compressor is a fairly tight fit, tho. Be sure you have the compressor positioned in the mounting bracket as far to the right as possible so that it can be rotated up enough to clear the transmission (you'll know what I'm talking about when you do the install). Otherwise it will get in the way and you won't be able to get the shock body all the way up to install the front bolts.

I remain firm on my stance that individual shop discounts (especially those of forum sponsors) should not be discussed here, if not published by them. What discount they give is for them to decide, not forum members. If JD has ever mentioned a standard for members discount publicly on these forums, then I will of course stand corrected. But to my knowledge he has not...

 

I have no problem with a man standing by his opinion.

 

He has, on several occasions.
A quick search turned up this example:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post11678110

 

My only problem during install was over tightening the compressor motor clamp. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS. It puts drag on the motor and causes the fuse to blow. It just needs to be snug. I found out about this problem at 10 pm and no spare fuse. Other than that its pretty straight forward. I also bought a Liquivac oil vacume pump to make trans fluid changes easier. The SS needs to be dropped on the front to get to the trans drain plug. I use the vac to suck out the warm trans fluid. I change fluid everytime I change oil. I do drop the SS and pull the drain plug about every fourth oil change.