Drive ratio upgrade HOW TO: Belt Pulleys, Primary sprockets, improve TQ up to 13%
#121
I forget - did he change only one pulley?
We don't know how much the belt adjustment position varies from individual bike to individual bike.
There is also a specific process for setting the correct belt tension. We don't know if everyone follows it. We also don't know what the consequences of too little tension (premature wear of the belt? belt "jumping teeth under hard acceleration?) and too much tension (excessive bearing wear on rear wheel bearing, or worse, excessive bearing wear at front pulley or inside tranny or primary drive?) are. We don't know how long any adverse efefcts take to show up.
Safest route is to change BOTH pulleys to enable adjustment within the correct range.
Jim G
We don't know how much the belt adjustment position varies from individual bike to individual bike.
There is also a specific process for setting the correct belt tension. We don't know if everyone follows it. We also don't know what the consequences of too little tension (premature wear of the belt? belt "jumping teeth under hard acceleration?) and too much tension (excessive bearing wear on rear wheel bearing, or worse, excessive bearing wear at front pulley or inside tranny or primary drive?) are. We don't know how long any adverse efefcts take to show up.
Safest route is to change BOTH pulleys to enable adjustment within the correct range.
Jim G
Last edited by Rocker B; 02-14-2016 at 12:15 AM.
#122
That is indeed not that bad. $800 total for both pulleys plus labor, if I understand you correctly. The key is that the smaller front pulley and larger rear pulley "offset" each other's effect on the axle adjustment. You need to do both - unless you are willing to go to a non-standard belt length. Since the belt cost would probably be substantial, it makes much more sense to just bite the bullet and do both pulleys.
The required removal of the belt guard is a negative. I don't know how much that increases the probability of belt damage via road debris.
Hmm . . . thinking . . .
Jim G
The required removal of the belt guard is a negative. I don't know how much that increases the probability of belt damage via road debris.
Hmm . . . thinking . . .
Jim G
Belt guards I've always removed and never had an issue. but that's just me. I'm pretty sure the bracket can be modified without much hassle though, you'd just need to extend the connection point outward a bit.
the only way to do the upgrade incrementally is to first put on a 68 rear, that works with the 32 front and same belt. then do the 30t later. [EDIT] we've seen demonstrated that a 70T can fit with a 32T, but we can't 100% guarantee equal fitment yet on a Breakout vs Cross Bones. only way to know is to measure your current axle position for at least 3/4" of free available forward slot.
the main issue though is there are no 68t pulleys I could find in chrome or polished- stock or aftermarket. you'd have to have one made by southern MC around $300. or buy a used stock 68t sportster pulley and have it chromed. $50-$75 for a used pulley and maybe $50-$75 to have it chromed.
there are plenty available in chrome / polished 70t though and at less cost.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 02-14-2016 at 02:08 AM.
#123
if there is a difference, it could be that on the Bones the trans sits slightly farther back and gives a slight bit more forward adjustment headroom to the slot. I think the magic number here is 3/4" to 7/8" - if you have 3/4" to 7/8" of forward slot left then it should work. see post #79 on page 8. That would be good to check on your bike. measure behind the axle washer at the inner slot area. you could cut a small 3/4" piece of scrap tin or 1/8" thin wood and see if it fits into the slot space ahead of the axle.
the adjusters back completely out of the swingarm slots and as long as the axle slides through then you're good to go. Remember , clearance is clearance sliding the axle through swingarm whether is is 1/32nd" or 1". The belt will be too loose for operation and must be tightened as normal with the adjusters after inserting the axle. if the belt were "operation tight" you could not get the axle through the swingarm slots.
100 in-lbs on the adjusters after TQ'ing the main axle bolt and a bit of blue locktite keeps them secure. or use another set of nuts on the adjusters as jam nuts. either method will work.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 02-14-2016 at 02:10 AM.
#124
I think the magic number here is 3/4" to 7/8" - if you have 3/4" to 7/8" of forward slot left then it should work. see post #79 on page 8. That would be good to check on your bike. measure behind the axle washer at the inner slot area. you could cut a small 3/4" piece of scrap tin or 1/8" thin wood and see if it fits into the slot space ahead of the axle.
#125
I'm not really looking for a maxed out gear ratio boost, just enough to help with two up riding.
Learning so much here. Thanks!
#126
yep your in that ball park cost wise- comes down to the deals you find on pulleys, and even a gasket set. dealer will use your gaskets if you bring them. I have the part numbers on file for them. also dealer will deal on labor- it just depends if you hit them off season or in season. off season is better.
Belt guards I've always removed and never had an issue. but that's just me. I'm pretty sure the bracket can be modified without much hassle though, you'd just need to extend the connection point outward a bit.
the only way to do the upgrade incrementally is to first put on a 68 rear, that works with the 32 front and same belt. then do the 30t later. [EDIT] we've seen demonstrated that a 70T can fit with a 32T, but we can't 100% guarantee equal fitment yet on a Breakout vs Cross Bones. only way to know is to measure your current axle position for at least 3/4" of free available forward slot.
the main issue though is there are no 68t pulleys I could find in chrome or polished- stock or aftermarket. you'd have to have one made by southern MC around $300. or buy a used stock 68t sportster pulley and have it chromed. $50-$75 for a used pulley and maybe $50-$75 to have it chromed.
there are plenty available in chrome / polished 70t though and at less cost.
Belt guards I've always removed and never had an issue. but that's just me. I'm pretty sure the bracket can be modified without much hassle though, you'd just need to extend the connection point outward a bit.
the only way to do the upgrade incrementally is to first put on a 68 rear, that works with the 32 front and same belt. then do the 30t later. [EDIT] we've seen demonstrated that a 70T can fit with a 32T, but we can't 100% guarantee equal fitment yet on a Breakout vs Cross Bones. only way to know is to measure your current axle position for at least 3/4" of free available forward slot.
the main issue though is there are no 68t pulleys I could find in chrome or polished- stock or aftermarket. you'd have to have one made by southern MC around $300. or buy a used stock 68t sportster pulley and have it chromed. $50-$75 for a used pulley and maybe $50-$75 to have it chromed.
there are plenty available in chrome / polished 70t though and at less cost.
One the belt guard: I looked at whether it could be easily moved, but found that there is too little material on both the belt guard and the swingarm tabs it fastens to accommodate different bolt positions. Basically, it looks like you have to remove it. There are potential belt damage (via kicked up stones), bike damage (via broken belt slapping the bike on its way off) and safety implications (if the belt breaks, it can slap you or a passenger). But, since I haven't yet even HEARD of a belt breakage incident, I think that's probably very rare, and perhaps not something to worry much about.
I think I'm in.
Jim G
#127
It is very interesting that the amount of axle adjustment available varies by bike.
My own Breakout has only 3/8" or slightly more possilbe movement forward, and less than that rearward, whereas some of you guys are talking about 7/8" of available movement.
The amount of belt stretch cannot possibly vary THAT much! Belts supposedly stretch very little after an initial stretch.
This implies that HD's welding jigs in their manufacturing process are not built to tight standards.
Jim G
My own Breakout has only 3/8" or slightly more possilbe movement forward, and less than that rearward, whereas some of you guys are talking about 7/8" of available movement.
The amount of belt stretch cannot possibly vary THAT much! Belts supposedly stretch very little after an initial stretch.
This implies that HD's welding jigs in their manufacturing process are not built to tight standards.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; 02-14-2016 at 08:29 AM.
#128
I did the geometry calculations before I started with my experiment of adding a 70 tooth rear pulley with a stock belt and stock front pulley on a Cross Bones. My everything stock wheel position was almost completely rearward. I had 7/8th of a inch of forward movement available. Putting the 70 tooth pulley on in place of the 66 tooth moved my wheel forward 3/4rs of an inch just like I calculated. There is no provision of adjustment with regard to belt tension, it is either correct or too loose or too tight. A half turn of the adjuster will take you out of the correct tension.
Last edited by Just Enough; 02-15-2016 at 07:44 AM. Reason: 66 tooth stock pulley not 68
#129
I did the geometry calculations before I started with my experiment of adding a 70 tooth rear pulley with a stock belt and stock front pulley on a Cross Bones. My everything stock wheel position was almost completely rearward. I had 7/8th of a inch of forward movement available. Putting the 70 tooth pulley on in place of the 68 tooth moved my wheel forward 3/4rs of an inch just like I calculated. There is no provision of adjustment with regard to belt tension, it is either correct or too loose or too tight. A half turn of the adjuster will take you out of the correct tension.
Part of it I'm sure is that the swingarm on the Breakout is unique because of its wide rear tire, so the welding fixtures used are different.
Jim G
#130
this is all very good info- thanks everyone. For those of you who end up doing a 70 with the 32, please try to take a before and after photo of the slot free forward space - it's easiest to photo this with the axle cap nut and outside washer nut removed.
Jim are you sure you only have 3/8"- are you looking at the gap inside the slot between the axle shaft and slot edge (kind of hard to see), or the space showing on the outside between the bolt head / washer edge and forward edge of slot? Shouldn't be that much difference between our same bikes.
and yes I'll keep an eye out for pulley deals!
Jim are you sure you only have 3/8"- are you looking at the gap inside the slot between the axle shaft and slot edge (kind of hard to see), or the space showing on the outside between the bolt head / washer edge and forward edge of slot? Shouldn't be that much difference between our same bikes.
and yes I'll keep an eye out for pulley deals!