Drive ratio upgrade HOW TO: Belt Pulleys, Primary sprockets, improve TQ up to 13%
#721
#722
#723
Put in the trike 30t in the front yesterday and only had a quick test ride back to my house from the shop. Felt good, but I'm waiting on my 70t for the rear.
I tried out the '06 street bob pulley (part 40576-06) and the pulley makes contact with the swingarm of my blackline, so I'd imagine it would be a no go with the slim as well. The '04-'06 touring pulley works well with an 1/8" spacer, just waiting on a new one.
It took about 4 hours all said and done with the help of a buddy. I feel like if I were to do it a second time I could shave off at least an hour. Had a little set back and had to pull the rear wheel and make an allen tool to get to the starter bolt without pulling the oil tank which added a bit of time to the swap. This thread and the linked thread of the andrews 30t install really helped out for some visuals.
I ordered an extra sprocket bolt under the assumption that even if the impact did get it off, it was going to be beat up and probably better off just replacing the thing anyway. It took a bit of time hitting it with the air impact and some manual twisting of the tool while hitting it with the air impact before it broke loose. The heartland tools worked perfect as well and i'd highly recommend them.
Running the 30t/66t combo I'm just about out of adjustment to get the belt tightened to spec, just a few threads left on the adjuster bolts.
I tried out the '06 street bob pulley (part 40576-06) and the pulley makes contact with the swingarm of my blackline, so I'd imagine it would be a no go with the slim as well. The '04-'06 touring pulley works well with an 1/8" spacer, just waiting on a new one.
It took about 4 hours all said and done with the help of a buddy. I feel like if I were to do it a second time I could shave off at least an hour. Had a little set back and had to pull the rear wheel and make an allen tool to get to the starter bolt without pulling the oil tank which added a bit of time to the swap. This thread and the linked thread of the andrews 30t install really helped out for some visuals.
I ordered an extra sprocket bolt under the assumption that even if the impact did get it off, it was going to be beat up and probably better off just replacing the thing anyway. It took a bit of time hitting it with the air impact and some manual twisting of the tool while hitting it with the air impact before it broke loose. The heartland tools worked perfect as well and i'd highly recommend them.
Running the 30t/66t combo I'm just about out of adjustment to get the belt tightened to spec, just a few threads left on the adjuster bolts.
Last edited by Br125; 06-02-2016 at 10:11 AM.
#725
The word "tool" should be used loosely lol. I don't have any pics.
Cut down a long allen (forget the size for the starter bolt) so that it's straight and you'll want to use a small ratchet with an extension and a deep socket to slide the allen into. You can fish it through from the right side of the bike right under the tank. If you pull the bolts to the oil tank, you should be able to lift and move the tank around enough to get through there. You might need an extra set of hands at that point. I used a little protective tape on the bottom of the oil tank and it kept from any rubbing from the extension. It's a tight squeeze.
an allen socket didn't fit as it was too fat and wouldn't sit flush into the bolt due to the clearance over the starter.
Cut down a long allen (forget the size for the starter bolt) so that it's straight and you'll want to use a small ratchet with an extension and a deep socket to slide the allen into. You can fish it through from the right side of the bike right under the tank. If you pull the bolts to the oil tank, you should be able to lift and move the tank around enough to get through there. You might need an extra set of hands at that point. I used a little protective tape on the bottom of the oil tank and it kept from any rubbing from the extension. It's a tight squeeze.
an allen socket didn't fit as it was too fat and wouldn't sit flush into the bolt due to the clearance over the starter.
#726
The word "tool" should be used loosely lol. I don't have any pics.
Cut down a long allen (forget the size for the starter bolt) so that it's straight and you'll want to use a small ratchet with an extension and a deep socket to slide the allen into. You can fish it through from the right side of the bike right under the tank. If you pull the bolts to the oil tank, you should be able to lift and move the tank around enough to get through there. You might need an extra set of hands at that point. I used a little protective tape on the bottom of the oil tank and it kept from any rubbing from the extension. It's a tight squeeze.
an allen socket didn't fit as it was too fat and wouldn't sit flush into the bolt due to the clearance over the starter.
Cut down a long allen (forget the size for the starter bolt) so that it's straight and you'll want to use a small ratchet with an extension and a deep socket to slide the allen into. You can fish it through from the right side of the bike right under the tank. If you pull the bolts to the oil tank, you should be able to lift and move the tank around enough to get through there. You might need an extra set of hands at that point. I used a little protective tape on the bottom of the oil tank and it kept from any rubbing from the extension. It's a tight squeeze.
an allen socket didn't fit as it was too fat and wouldn't sit flush into the bolt due to the clearance over the starter.
Last edited by Rocker B; 06-02-2016 at 04:01 PM.
#727
Put the 70t on last week, but not after putting in some SE 204 cams, so unfortunately I can't comment on how the 30/70 worked on my bike with just the stage 1.
With the cams and the gearing, this feels like a completely different bike than before. First gear runs out real quick, but that was obviously to be expected, and 6th gear is actually usable now. Overall, I'm not sure if I would recommend the gearing or cams first, but they both make a massive difference.
again, thanks for the info from everyone.
With the cams and the gearing, this feels like a completely different bike than before. First gear runs out real quick, but that was obviously to be expected, and 6th gear is actually usable now. Overall, I'm not sure if I would recommend the gearing or cams first, but they both make a massive difference.
again, thanks for the info from everyone.
#728
So I think I am about ready to tackle this 30/70 install on my 2007 SE Road King CVO. I have a couple of questions. I see in some videos, there is the need of a special socket to remove the front pulley locking nut, and in some, this didnt appear to be the case. Also, I seen some where they had to pull a bearing and some where it didnt appear to have a bearing there and simply remove the primary comp and clutch assembly, following by the front drive sprocket. I just dont want to get in there and find I dont have the correct tools for the job. Ideas?
Thanks
Glen
Thanks
Glen
#729
#730
If you do push forward with this mod it will be very good to see how it turn out, the pulley part you bought or had made, etc.
There is nothing wrong with only changing one pulley (front) to meet your drive ratio objective. the main reason we typically change the front and the rear pulleys here is due to "known parts" and they are easy for most folks to order and get. Plus some guys might want to put on a fancier rear pulley anyway. I have not seen a fitment for our BO's on a 29t front pulley.