I was ordering the baker compensator and the rest of the parts to do that job when I stumbled on this thread. Figured I might as well take advantage of the fact I will be right there with the amount of work in the primary anyway. Seems New Castle is the best price for the pulleys so far. Can't seem to bring myself to buy a used 70t for less than 100 dollar savings. Anybody have tips on better prices for the sprockets???? I am doing this on an 07 Deluxe stage 1, PV w/TT... Triglide sprocket #83595-11: 62.32 and #40289-00 :217.84

 

For 70t pulleys, ebay is your best bet. but yeh some of those used prices are pretty stupid, I mean, wtf are these sellers thinking? and some of those used parts, they should be ashamed trying to sell- cracked, worn teeth, chunks missing out of the lip, etc. plain dangerous used parts that should be in the trash.

But, there is good stuff that comes up regularly- For comparison, myself and some others here picked up brand new billet pulleys (Ness, PM, etc) for about $100, and another $30 for spacer and bolts. You can also try Southern Machine and have them cut you a new pulley, their prices are not bad. http://www.southernmachinewheels.com/

But overall, even worst case paying full retail on parts / labor, the "bang for buck" of this upgrade and resulting performance benefit is still well worth the cost.

Good luck and hope the process goes smoothly for you.

 

I just checked my belt and it is a 40058-07 which is a 133 tooth belt. I have over an inch to come forward and very little space left to move to the rear (to tighten the belt). It's an 07 deluxe with the original belt. The belt looks fine, slight wear. Does it seem this belt may be stretched an excessive amount? or is the 133 that long...? Gives me more than enough to just do the 70t rear but I'm doing the whole thing anyway. If I gotta change the belt because it's stretched I will but it looks good as far as condition of the teeth and top.Thanks

 

If your belt looks fine don't change it. if you have enough room with the belt for the 70t rear with a 32t front, then it will also fit once you do the 30t front- It will move the rear wheel slightly back.

These belts do not stretch- anyone who tells you it does is wrong. No room for debate. When brand new, initial break in say first few miles, these belts may stretch just a fraction, but after that it will never stretch any further for its entire life.

When worn, it will either snap or belt teeth will break off- but usually that only happens from running the belt looser than spec or after extremely high mileage / normal end-of-life wear.

it is imperative that belts be adjusted properly to spec and it is actually very dangerous to run the belt loose. A loose belt will snap or shear off teeth due to excessive force loading on the belt at the pulley. a belt that is slightly too tight is safer than a belt that is slightly too loose.

Chains in the other hand, yeh, those stretch.

 

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Ok wanted to make sure I did this math right cause I don't have a way to gps check my speedo. My current tire size on my bike is a 200/55r17 and I my pulley combo is 32/70t. I used multiplied 2232 by 1.0607 (almost same aspect ratio to breakout) which gave me 2367 is my new pulse per km.

 

Success!!! Finally buttoned it up and got some help with the speedometer correction from Fuel Moto. Great guys to deal with!!! Two things i will mention, the final drive nut needed to be broken loose with a pipe wrench and 4 foot cheater. i spent a day avoiding it but no luck. Second thing is that the oil tank need not be removed to get to the starter bolts on a softail. I used a long T handled 1/4 inch allen, no problems on or off. I did a few other things too so all in all a great improvement. Thanks to all that contributed to this post.

 

After putting a couple of miles on the bike yesterday I could not help feeling as if the ratio might be just a bit too short. I have done this on a Deluxe which has 16 inch wheels and I guess that is where the difference is. I was doing the comp sprocket anyway and figured it would be the perfect time to do the main pulley swap. In my haste I didn't take into consideration the wheel size difference. Can someone tell me what the difference is with the 30/70 pulleys and 16's instead of 18's in rpms???? Looking for a 68t now. At least the rear pulley is easy. My deluxe would look good with some black fat spoke wheels in 18 inch though.....

 

You did not quite ask the right question. Here's why:

It is not the diameter of the wheel that counts for calculating correct gear ratio. It is the diameter of the entire wheel assembly including tire that is the determining factor.

You need to compare the overall working diameter of your wheel assembly to that of a Breakout.

However, because tires have a flat contact patch with the pavement when rolling, this means you need to actually compare the distance rolled in one complete revolution of the the tire. you put a piece of masking tape on the tire sidewall at one point with a line marked on it. Start with the line at the bottom of the tire pointed straight down to the ground. Put a matching piece of tape, or any object, on the ground at that point. Then roll the bike forward until the tape mark on the tire is again pointing straight down. Measure the distance between the 2 marks. Post the result on this thread. Then, someone here can compare your measurement to that of a stock Breakout (Not me, because I do not have a stock rear tire on my Breakout - I did the smart thing and changed to a Pirelli! ).

From your posting, it seems you are assuming that your 16" wheel results in a significantly different overall wheel diameter than a Breakout. I woudl nOT make that assumption.

Jim G

 

The measurement is 77 1/4 inches.