Clean your Ignition Switch - Prevent Stalling While Riding
#1
03-17-2016, 09:06 AM
Clean your Ignition Switch - Prevent Stalling While Riding
On both of my Harleys with the barrel key ignition I've had the bikes shut off, no electrical power, when riding - forcing me to get off the road under no power. Luckily I lived through both episodes. I didn't learn my lesson the first time, but I did the second time and I want to share it with others to prevent stalling while riding which is a very dangerous situation.
Turns out this is a common problem, the barrel key ignition switch gets gummed up over the years, the grease HD puts in gets hard and the spring loaded connections inside make an intermittent connection. Sometimes the bike will pop and come back alive, sometimes it will shut off and no matter what you can't get it going, and sometimes if you fiddle with the switch it will come back alive.
Avoid all of these circumstances with a simple cleaning of the ignition switch. It's easy and free.
My friend GTMalone typed up this great How-To with pictures on another forum we are on, and he's given me permission to repeat it here. I've copied and pasted this several times now answering this question in threads where guys are trying to diagnose intermittent loss of power that I figured I better post up a new thread - this is regular maintenance in my opinion, to be done every year or so.
Hope this helps someone! Thanks again to GTMalone.
NOTE: THIS IS FOR THE BARREL KEY IGNITION ON TWIN CAM SOFTAILS. It also applies to Evo Road Kings.
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
Models with tank mounted, barrel key ignition switches
SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED
circlip piers
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
Turns out this is a common problem, the barrel key ignition switch gets gummed up over the years, the grease HD puts in gets hard and the spring loaded connections inside make an intermittent connection. Sometimes the bike will pop and come back alive, sometimes it will shut off and no matter what you can't get it going, and sometimes if you fiddle with the switch it will come back alive.
Avoid all of these circumstances with a simple cleaning of the ignition switch. It's easy and free.
My friend GTMalone typed up this great How-To with pictures on another forum we are on, and he's given me permission to repeat it here. I've copied and pasted this several times now answering this question in threads where guys are trying to diagnose intermittent loss of power that I figured I better post up a new thread - this is regular maintenance in my opinion, to be done every year or so.
Hope this helps someone! Thanks again to GTMalone.
NOTE: THIS IS FOR THE BARREL KEY IGNITION ON TWIN CAM SOFTAILS. It also applies to Evo Road Kings.
Originally Posted by gtmalone
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
Models with tank mounted, barrel key ignition switches
SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED
circlip piers
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
Last edited by Joe_G; 03-11-2017 at 05:19 PM. Reason: clarified applicable models thanks to Splattt
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#2
03-17-2016, 10:37 AM
Same thing here a few times. I priced a new switch and they quoted me like $150 bucks because of the alarm system and re-keying it to match my fork lock. I thought no way until I take it apart and look myself. It's got to be somewhat serviceable/cleanable. And it was. I took it apart, cleaned everything and moved the worn contact bridge from the "IGN" position to the "ACC" location and it's like a brand new switch that ought to go another 30k miles.
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smac 61 (08-04-2023)
#3
03-17-2016, 10:40 AM
#4
03-17-2016, 10:43 AM
#5
03-17-2016, 10:45 AM
Good point I'll edit the post to clarify, thanks.
Last edited by Joe_G; 03-17-2016 at 10:58 AM.
#7
03-17-2016, 11:10 AM
I figured let's spread the word on this easy and free maintenance item that will fix or prevent a bad problem!
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#8
03-17-2016, 11:20 AM
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#9
03-17-2016, 02:16 PM
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