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Brakes, Is this normal?

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  #21  
Old 05-26-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CBCanada
Also should I lubricate the piston walls with anything when sliding back in?
Harley is the only person I have ever seen who call for a lubricant on the piston besides brake fluid. (they say if you use brake fluid, you will have excess lever travel) You must however USE the correct lubricant. It's listed in their PDF overhaul kit instruction. I can probably find it in the manual. I would replace that ring. It has very wear pattern scratches and you are not going to get it back exactly. Surely you got an overhaul kit to replace the seals for the sliding caliper bolts?? The lube is called GE Versilube G322 L Silicone Grease marked piston grease. They also call Dow Corning Molly 44 grease out for your slide caliper bolts and seals. Does your system call for DOT 5?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 05-26-2016 at 12:53 PM.
  #22  
Old 05-26-2016, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Harley is the only person I have ever seen who call for a lubricant on the piston besides brake fluid. (they say if you use brake fluid, you will have excess lever travel) You must however USE the correct lubricant. It's listed in their PDF overhaul kit instruction. I can probably find it in the manual. I would replace that ring. It has very wear pattern scratches and you are not going to get it back exactly. Surely you got an overhaul kit to replace the seals for the sliding caliper bolts?? The lube is called GE Versilube G322 L Silicone Grease marked piston grease. They also call Dow Corning Molly 44 grease out for your slide caliper bolts and seals. Does your system call for DOT 5?
dot5 yes

i actually dont have that seal i will check with the harley dealership to see if they have it. so you are saying that seal ring has wear patterns on it that wont match the piston when i slide it back in?

i ussually just put some brake fluid as the lubricant, interesting.
 
  #23  
Old 05-26-2016, 09:48 PM
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The "O" ring kit I picked up from the dealer came with the "correct" piston lubricant
 
  #24  
Old 05-27-2016, 06:53 AM
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So the piston side pad goes under the clip and that's all that holds it with tension? Because the pad fell out when I pulled the calliper out , so I could not really see and looking at the diagram it's kind of hard to tell exactly if that's the only thing holding it

 
  #25  
Old 05-27-2016, 07:58 AM
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This way if it seems to make sense for what it does. Think it's an anti rattle spring. Think you have in in on the wrong side also. Is that it in the second attachment catching the pad?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:31 AM
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I also noticed a difference between the brake disc minimum thickness that's in the service manual versus the actual disc that's on my tire my tire states 0.18 inches and the service manual says 0.20 inches if I go with the service manual then I am too thin but if I go with the minimum on the actual disc that's on the tire I am a Bob I am at 0.19
 
  #27  
Old 05-27-2016, 12:59 PM
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Not sure I under stand you. You say brake disc (I call it the rotor) If it's marked on rotor the minimum. Use that. Mine were. Mine at 30K on odometer were down to minimum. It's not a lot to get them to minimum plus they are not very true then anyway. I found brand new take offs on ebay for little more then shipping but my rotors are very common. Do not under statement about tire. My back rotor was actually thicker then front which was interesting since most of braking is in front. The back was not quite worn out but I replace it. They are a pain to get off without an impact. Need a little heat on those torx bolts if you do not have one. Use loctite going back together on them and use a torque wrench
 
  #28  
Old 05-27-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Not sure I under stand you. You say brake disc (I call it the rotor) If it's marked on rotor the minimum. Use that. Mine were. Mine at 30K on odometer were down to minimum. It's not a lot to get them to minimum plus they are not very true then anyway. I found brand new take offs on ebay for little more then shipping but my rotors are very common. Do not under statement about tire. My back rotor was actually thicker then front which was interesting since most of braking is in front. The back was not quite worn out but I replace it. They are a pain to get off without an impact. Need a little heat on those torx bolts if you do not have one. Use loctite going back together on them and use a torque wrench

Yes I mean the rotor.. The rotor minimum thickness spec in the manual is different then the minimum that's stamped on the actual rotor.
 
  #29  
Old 05-27-2016, 05:26 PM
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Ok so I cleane out the caliper, put new seals in, used piston grease, put in dot 5, bled the brakes, rebuilt the forks

Let's see how it is
 

Last edited by CBCanada; 05-27-2016 at 05:41 PM.
  #30  
Old 05-27-2016, 05:52 PM
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My only concern is that the bleeder but is 50% stripped,
Any tips I how I can bleed this without stripping total
 


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