A buddy of mine has a very similar set up to yours and HAD the same issue... I said had.. He checked his spokes and all seemed good. Something went wrong at under 30mph.. The wheel went side to side completely out of round.. it kinda folded.. Our indy said he's seen this a few times.. I'd get the rims checked profesionally as Eddy need to change both of his..

 

Bring the bike back closer to level front to back either by raising the rear back up or lowering the front and you will probably have a more stable ride.

 

i adjusted the neck bearing and it made a big difference, it was to loose.

 

There you go, glad you took the time to check the neck, however, your geometry isn't right,

 

Nor is is wrong.

 

Some thoughts and opinions from afar.

My guess is you have the neck bearing set too tight. Set the fall away to the minimum. First up after doing it, you will think at 35 "Oh WOW, this is too loose' . But after a few day and miles, you will realize that at speed, you no longer correct with the bars but a little body English. Those tapered need bearings only need to be snug and even a few .001 play will not hurt. I inspected mine at 40K and they were still like new. I replace the bend lock washer with the standard one since my local dealer did not have the harden one. So my torque is set to the original standard since if you try to torque that optional one, it will twist off the bent tab. It's not going to get loose. Just another Harley smoke screen for their mechanics sloppy work.

If too tight, you tend to over steer back and forth. Just my opinion.

If there is a worn flat on tires will make them terrible in turns as thy roll over that edge.

Keep in mind that these bikes are pretty crude for tec and have MAX speed pretty low in the owners manual. You are fighting two different tire radius and probably some offset in tire alignment. So left and right curves are slightly different fillings.

The front aligns a Softail going down the road. The rear is aligned with the swing arm bearings and solid mounted motor pulley. I do mine off preset lock-nuts on the adjuster screw to the milled flats which are equal distance from the bearing bores using a dial caliper.

 

True. It's somewhere closer to right than wrong and needs to be dialed in.

 

My 2016 Heritage Classic FLSTC has the same feeling at 70 mph and up to 80. Haven't been past 80 mph yet, just turned 515 miles.

 

I was just going to say the neck bearing adjustment was too loose. You beat me to it.


Setting the "drag" on the front end neck bearing is not hard once you realize the book is just a starting point. You want enough drag to cut out all the shake and wobble when you accelerate to 70 and then shut off the throttle. There should be ZERO shake.


The problem is that most guys don't let the fork triple tree nuts go totally slack by loosening the tube nuts enough to let the two triple trees "move" closer together when you tighten up on the neck bearings.


The goal is to get ALL the shake and wobble out of the front neck bearings without getting them so tight your front end is locked into a tracking wobble because it is TOO tight.


You just have to experiment to get a great "feel."


But as with women. You just have to experiment to get a great "feel."


I'm sorry. Was that too sexy for these forums?

 

Update, had the rear wheel off and put on a truing stand, it was waaaay out off from being true, i had and "old school" pro true it up thats done a ton of them, it all good now.