I am trying to remove the baffles for the SEII slip ons. There are 2 bolts on the mufflers and after removing them, the baffles are still holy **** tight.
Are they tack welded in there somehow?
I dont want to wreck the mufflers. I am thinking about using the Big City Thunder baffles.
MikeM

 

Don't know if the're new or not, but I've heard that you have to take the slip ons off and "help" them from the uphill side.

 

I had to take mine off, them used a tobacco stick to ease out.

 

The attached photos show what worked for me. Actually pretty easy using a vise grip, channel lock, and hammer. You will have to imagine that the baffle is still inside the pipe.

The SE II should have a little lip just inside the pipe that you can lock the vise grips on. Then grasp the adjusting screw on the vise grip with the channel lock, and tap the side of the channel lock with the hammer. Start with light taps, and increase as needed. This worked great on mine, and they wouldn't budge with just pulling. They literally just fell out on the second tap.

This may save you the hassle of removing the slip-ons.

Good luck!

By the way, I use the Big City Thunder baffles. They are awesome sounding! Just a bit louder at idle, but they really talk when you roll on the throttle. I set a car alarm off the other day--just driving by!



[IMG]local://upfiles/26821/1FF5D2C439164B35A62C67D188FBCE7D.jpg[/IMG]

 

good sh@t rfranz, I tried to take mine out once and gave up because they did not bugde, I think I will try that approach.

 

I use a slide hammer with a hook.

 

i took mine off, placed tip side down on a folded towel and tapped it out with a hammer and an old pipe from the front side. worked great. don't hit too hard. dont want to damage the tip.

 

Yeah, man mine were tight too... I used a little of every method described..but they came out! Before you go spending cash on an aftermarket baffle, think on this: I modified the existing baffle to where it still gave just a little back pressure, but opened the chambers up to give a fantastic sound. I would estimate the total removal of material at around 1/3, to 1/2 restriction. Plus, I swear that modification gave it just little more UMPH!! ...It has an acceptable sound in town, and when I'm out on the highway and shower down it, it screams without sucking cold air back into it when I let off....that blap blap blap blapety blap sounds like crap to me.... Hope you get the results you want... I'm sure it'll sound fine. enjoy.

 

What PolarBear said!

You can easily modify the baffles in the SE II (once you get them out). There are a couple of different ways to do this:

1. Drill the existing holes a little larger. If you start small, and have patience, you could drill them, try it, and then drill them larger if you don't like the results.
2. Some have cut squares out between the existing holes
3. The diversion structure in the baffle can be opened or closed a little to change the amount of exhaust that flows straight through.

The advantage of this approach is that it is cheap--essentially just your time, and some people have good results with this--but if you don't, it is difficult to go back. It may take some time to get the results you want. You may even end up with good sound and impaired performance, or bad sound and impaired performance.

The advantage of purchasing something like the thunder monster is that it has been designed and tested, and will most likely give good performance results. Whether or not you like the sound is a matter of personal opinion. The disadvantage is that it is more costly.

My 2 cents, which is now probably worth only one.

 

Knock out the baffles. I measured the inside diameter...2 3/4 inches. Couldn't find reducers..so went to a muffler shop and had them cut two 4 inch pieces of 2 1/4 inch pipe. Expanded one end 2 inches in depth..to 2 3/4 inches..checked each one for a TIGHT fit into the pipe exit end. (not header end) Then...went to Advance Auto and bought two other reduders that would fit over the 2 1/4 inch end... First ..insert the cut and expended fitting..larger end first..smaller end facing the exhaust opening... Using a block of wood...pound it as far as you can. Second...put the reducer over that...it should have been checked for a PROPER (pronounced TIGHT) fit.. POUND it on..it will connect to the other. Purpose...speed up the exhaust gasses as they exit..produce some backpressure The smaller opening at the exhaust end will prevent reversion. In other words as the throttle is released...gasses try to return to the valves...some will do so no matter what. This setup produces a loud..throaty sound..while giving some backpressure and stopping the rattle upon decel (reversion) Cost $16 and a free block of wood..which promptly was retired (pronounced SHREDDED) upon completion. Oh yea..I used a 24 ounce framing hammer to "gently persuade" it into place