What he said. Just leave the socket and extension on the nut and lift it up.

Ron

 

People are confused here, when the chain guide drops, you have to pull the guide out a bit to move it up, the back wedges are binding, make it really difficult to pull up. Even you leave the socket and extension attached, it is still hard. What I do is using a coat hanger, make a little hook at the end, pull the bottom of the chain guide while loosening, make your life a lot easier.

 

i got it everyone thanks, anyone have INFO ON CHANGEING THE IOL AND TRANS FLUID?

 

It's all in the manual. Best $60 you'll ever spend...

 

Put it this way, you need it sooner or later.

 

Back in the day, you had to ahve a manual before others would let you become a hang around.

 

Lmao :d

 

i dont have a book and i ordered it but it is not here and i need to change the oil today..

 

I think, on occasion, that it is a good idea to take the primary cover off and do a thorough inspection while checking the chain tension. Now, if you have an automatic chain tensioner, the time between checking is long enough that it wouldn't hurt to do that every time. Check to make sure that the stator bolts are tight while you are at it. I recently heard that some went out of the factory with the wrong loctite on them. I'm going to do this inspection before I head for Biketoberfest, that's for sure.

You should be able to just try to rock the stator to see if it's loose in the rotor. High pitch whines have been associated with this problem, just before the stator exploded in the primary case (this is all hearsay on my part... I haven't seen it happen). Note that if you take your stator out of the rotor for cleaning, etc. you should use new screws and use permanent threadlocker to reinstall it.

 

Take a look here: http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.GEARBOX.HTML