I was wondering how difficult it is to replace the oil check valve on my fatboy? After about a week of sitting the oil in the tank drains down. I have read and heard from many on here and the dealer that this is common with softails. The oil returns to the tank as soon as the bike is cranked. Anyway, I was considering changing the check valve that is supposed to keep the oil in the tank, this winter and was wondering what was involved.

 

WARG,
I just went through the engine oil system section of the service manual for my 07 and I can't find it listed or referanced anywhere.
I KNOW they used them in the older Shovelheads and EVO's, but I'm beginning to wonder if they might have eliminated it from the newer TC engines.

 

If it's the one in the cam support plate: I tried replacing mine several years ago and wasn't able to. A chain tensioner shoe had come apart and a piece of plastic was wedged in it. Funny thing is, I don't remember what the problem was. (Why I couldn't do it) I ended up replacing the entire support plate. Not a cheap part, but doing it myself not too bad.

Harley has only had 105 years to figure out some way to control gravity and oil. Still waiting. If it is pumping the oil back to the tank maybe not such a big deal. When my Panhead sumps, it pumps the oil out of the breather onto the rear tire.

 

thats one sweet looking hard tail. my last bike a 69 shovel hard tail. gone now, moved up the ranks to an 04 fat boy. those hard tails, or bar hoppers as we call them up here in canada sure beat the hell out of your body. not to mention the bike it self, lotsa of locktite was used. shake rattle and roll is what i say. once again knuck sweet looking ride, good luck and hang on to that gem. i do miss mine, but believe i made the right choice. now i just push a button and go, distance no problem now.

 

There were a bunch of little changes done to the engine between 06 and 07 so my info may not be very accurate.
But my 07 manual only shows only one valve, called the "Oil pressure relief valve" in the lower left hand corner of the cam support plate. The picture of it in the manual was taken from a straight on angle so I can't be sure. But the cam support plate 'might' have to be removed to get the valve in or out of it.
The valve spring itself is held in place with a 1/8" roll pin driven crosswise through the plate behind the spring. Looks like the easiest way to get at it and remove it and the valve would be to pull the plate out and stick it in a padded vise. Then use a pin punch and small hammer to drive the roll pin out.
Put a rag or somthing like it over the hole cause once you push the pin through the only thing holding that spring will be the punch. Once you pull that out the spring "will" fly half way across the room and hide out from you, they always do.

If your considering getting new cams, this would be the time to put them in because you have to remove the cam support plate to get at the valve and with that plate removed its not much more work to get the old cams out.
If its this much work to get at the silly little thing, and its not 'hurting' anything the way it is. I would be very tempted to say screw it and not bother with it until I had collected all the parts needed to replace the cams and chain drive with hotter cams and a gear drive setup.
That would save me the trouble of doing it all over again when I do get around to putting in better cams.

If your willing to get this deep into the engine. Don't you think its high time you invested in a service manual?
Working on stuff like this I would not be willing to read someone elses interpritation of what's in there. Beisdes I consider a service manual nearly as important as a good set of tools.
Your also going to want one to show you how to remove and replace the cam drive chains and the bolt tightening sequence for the cam support plate. Not to mention all the other little things you'll be doing to the bike before it gets 'retired/replaced'.
Good Luck and ride safe.

 

Thanks. Everything you say about rigids is true. It's a great bike for cruising a smooth highway at 45-55 mph. My Pan sits unridden since October when I noticed that one of the top motor mount bolts had vibrated out of the head. The threads are gone and I haven't gotten around to Heli-coiling it yet. Probably a winter project. I really love the old stuff, but the new stuff means your Heli-coils, screw extractors, etc. get to stay in the toolbox.

Reading Citori's post reminds me of several experiences I have had with releasing spring pressure suddenly. If you're lucky, the spring imbeds in your forehead making it easier to find. Most of the time it takes off in the general direction of a pile of very heavy, hard to move objects at about 300 MPH, never to be seen again.

Now if any of y'all are having trouble with their old style check valves in either cast iron or aluminum I have the fix for you.

 

thanks Citoriplus, the service manual was the first thing I bought and I use it frequently. I was on vacation when I posted this question and wanted some feedback from someone who might have done it. However, your info. has lead me to the conclusion I have been sticking to for a while now "if it ain't hurting anything, why bother".

So, anybody see any reason why this is something that "needs" to be fixed? As long as it won't hurt the bike, then I really don't want to get into it. Cams are in the plans but not for a year or so.

thanks