I am preparing to do the 1,000 mile service on my 09 Softail. I bought the service manual and feel fairly mechanically inclined. Aside from cars this would be my first time maintaining a motorcycle. I've read the procedures and they seem pretty straigtforward. My question comes with the lubricants and filter. I've read in various threads that synthetic oil is the preferred choice for many. I live in florida and am concerned with the overheating of v-twins. Is synthetic motor oil the same for cars and motorcycles? Also I will be changing the primary and transmission fluid. The service manual only recommends hd fluids which doesn't make it clear what other fluids can be used. Any suggestions on where I can get reasonable fluids for the job ( ie auto parts store, walmart, etc. ). Also is there anywhere that the oil filter would be available other than the dealership or online stores. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. I'm not sold on dealership only products to maintain a vehicle. I'm realizing HD = mucho $.

 

I got a sweet deal on Amsoil 20w-50 V-twin oil when a local sporting goods store closed, So I run that synthetic blend in all 3 holes, I'd use mobile-1 without hesitation, not sure on the rest.

 

I use Red Line V-twin Transmission oil for and Red Line Primary Case oil for the tranny and primary. I get the Red Line from my local Cycle Gear

 

I got free maintance for 2 years, and I use Syn3 in all 3 holes. I'm thinking of the Redline for the trans as everyone who uses it says the trans shifts better. I am a believer in using factory filters on everything I own. I've seen too many aftermarket filters fail. JMO

 

I run the oil in the engine but use Bel Ray for the trans and no wine or clank and I can find neutral. I use Motor Factory® Primary Case Lube in the primary. because Amsoil has gone up so much I just switched to Mobil 1 for vtwin and it works as good. I have 36,000 miles in about 1.5 years and it runs great and no debris in the oil changes.
http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=13637
http://www.customchrome.com/dcm/cc/view.asp?mfoil.html

i would have the dealer do the 1k as they check far more than the manual says and they will use your oil if you bring it. to me it is a safety thing and a warranty thing if they find a defect

 

I agree, have the dealer do the first one, just so they can check things out for you. After that I would go with the Mobile 1 20/50W for V-Twins in the engine and primary, and Mobile 1 90/140W (for where you live and ride) gear oil for the tranny.
I like it because its a good high quality oil that's relatively easy to find at a reasonable cost, full synthetics are still going to cost a bunch more than dyno oils. You can usually pick it up at most of the bigger auto parts chain stores, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone etc. The filters are a little harder to find outside of the dealer, but check around, you might get lucky and find a place that sells brand name ones just because the riding season is so much longer there.

PS If you do let the dealer do the first service, check out the bottom steering head bearing for a week or so afterwards and have a rag handy when you do. They tend to put a lot of grease in there and it will often seep out all over the top and front of the engine and fender. The hotter it is out the worse it seems to get so wiping off the excess occasionally will keep it from making a mess of things later.

 

I also had the dealer do the first service. Just to have a record for warranty purposes that the first service was performed and nothing was wrong with the bike.
Then at 5,000 miles I did the service myself.
I always use the Harley Syn 3 and Harley filters. I would rather know that is what it should have instead of wondering, "I hope this stuff works".

Changing to Synthetic at 1000 miles is the way to go. It will shift a lot smoother. You will notice a big difference.

Ride Safe

 

You may find your legs get hot from radiating heat but you should not have any issues with overheating in FL. I have ridden all over CA, NV, and AZ to include Phoenix in June/July without issue.

I have heard suggestions for dino or synthetic oil for the 1K service with seemingly justified rationale for both. Either will suffice. For the record I changed engine, tranny, and primary to Syn3 at 1K. For the most part this choice will boil down to personal preference. People can talk 'til the cows come home on what oil is better. Often times they will. For normal street use just about anything you select will be fine.

As far as non-HD fluids to use, you can't go wrong with purposed MC lubricants. If you start looking at auto grade (e.g. Mobil One) you might do a little homework first. Ask your local indy wrench or members here for some advice on non-MC specific lubricants.

If you aren't buying from the dealership or online your next best bet is local MC shops. Most will have typical maintenance items in stock (filters, oil, plugs, etc). I've never checked but I wouldn't expect Autozone to carry filters for HD.

 

Just to keep the record straight, and no insult to you is intended. But NO ONE around here (especially me) would ever or has ever (to my knowledge) recomended an auto grade oil for use in an air cooled Harley of any stripe.
When we (ie. me) suggest the use of Mobile 1 in a Harley's engine, its not ever meant to imply the use of any kind or grade of auto oil. But the one grade of Mobile 1 that has been specifically designed for use in Harley's and that being Mobile 1 20/50W for V-Twins.
The transmission is another story all together. Seeing as it is a divorced and self contained unit, unlike many bike transmissions, it is not exposed to combustion produced chemicals. So the use of a good high grade gear lubicant without any need for the additives that must be present in engine oils is perfectly acceptable. Any good high grade gear lube should be more than sufficient to the task. But like many other things some are just a bit better for it than others.

 

wtf???????