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Letting out clutch in first gear I get a Chirp!???

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Old 04-30-2009, 12:16 AM
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Default Letting out clutch in first gear I get a Chirp!???

Hello Brothers,

Got an issue and can't seem to find what the heck is goin on. I changed my beach bars and put ape hangers and bought new clutch, throttle and idle cables. Before putting the bars on the bike ran fine and didn't have any noise problems on take off in first gear.

Ok, now I will try and explain this the best way possible and I hope someone can give me an idea of what may be the problem. When I get ready to go for a ride and I'm parked with the bike warming up. When I shift down out of neutral to first and begin to let out the clutch and at the same time give some throttle the bike will (Sometimes) sound out a weird chirp or whine sound on the left side and the bike will jerk and take off. I feel like if I'm riding the clutch and no gas or not engaging the clutch enough or ???? what would would cause this problem, it doesn't always happen ONLY when I don't clutch and throttle correctly will it make that sound.

If I just let out the clutch with no gas and the bike starts to move then give it gas it's fine, could it be that i'm giving to much throttle and the clutch cable not adjusted properly. I'm trying to replay exactly what I do when this happen and it's when Im letting out the clutch handle slowly or maybe I'm letting it out to slow????

Thanks for any replies and sorry if my explanation is to confusing!!!

Houdini
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:59 AM
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Many times the chirp that you hear is the drive belt. Easiest way to find out is to spray some belt dressing on the belt and take it for a ride. If that's not it then you need to investigate further but that's a simple one.
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:03 AM
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I replyed in your other thread about the brown oil. Looking at this one I'm begining to wonder if it may be time to change the oil in the primary also.
I don't know what year bike you have so I don't know if your going to have to take off the Darby cover (07 up) or the inspection cover (06 down) to check the oil.
But I suspect that there may not be enough in there or its time to change it.
Best bet would be to just change it, to cover the basics. A quart of oil is just cheap insurance and can't hurt no matter what may or may not be wrong.
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:06 AM
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I agree with the oil change. Your bike is an evo model with low low miles but the oils should be changed in all three holes. Engine with new filter, transmission and primary. I wouldn't ride it anymore until that's done.
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:12 AM
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I agree with Citoriplus completely, having also read your other post. I will add this: If you had no issues before you changed the bars and cables, Your clutch cable adjustment comes into question.
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:32 AM
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Thanks to all of you,

No more riding until I have it fully serviced and clutch cable adjusted by professional mechanic. I'm hoping it's nothing serious. It's hard to explain the exact noise but I would say it's similar to a quick pull of the trigger on a drill but without the lasting sound. The sound I hear on the bike is about a second. I'm going to have it service for sure and make sure I don't do any damage to it. Thanks for the help I will keep you posted and let me know if you have any other ideas on what it could be.

PS. My partner in crime is a 1996 Heritage softail nostalgia with 17,000 miles.

Thanks!
Houdini
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:27 AM
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First thing to do is check the oil level in the primary, odds are its a bit low and the 'dry' clutch plates are causing the 'chirping' noise.
Once everything is moving the clutch doesn't slip as much, if at all, so there is no noticeable sound coming from it.
A mis-adjusted clutch cable generally shows up as being hard to shift or the bike trying to jerk and or pull forward when you put it in first gear. Or if its too tight letting the engine rpm's climb faster than the bike accelerates due to slippage.


PS on a 96 you can check the primary oil through the inspection port on the side of the primary.
Its the little round ended plate between the engine and the clutch Darby cover.
You can also check and adjust the primary chain tensioner while your in there.
With 17,000 miles on it, its overdue to be checked.
 

Last edited by In Memoriam Citoriplus; 04-30-2009 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:38 AM
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Citoriplus,

Thanks again, Is it hard to change the primary oil, gear box oil ? Do I use the same oil for both? Is it something I can do by myself. I've changed my engine oil in the past with no problem. If you could let me know what I'll need or any links on video or instructions on changing the primary oil.

PS. How can you tell if the oil is low in the primary?

Thank you again!!!!

Houdini
 
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:11 AM
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Changing the primary oil is easier than the engine. Look under the primary cover about two thirds of the way back and you'll se a plug just like the one for the engine oil tank. That's the drain, pull it out and its done.
To refill it you need to take off the inspection plate and put the oil in there, with the plug installed of course.
I'm not absolutely sure exactly how much oil it takes, I can't remember if its 26 oz or a full 32oz. (quart). But the owners manual should tell you its capacity.

The tranny is a tad harder only because the plug is a pain to get at and it can make a mess. The plug is located between the shocks under the tranny and the only reasonable way to get at it is to use a socket on an extension.
The bad part is that the socket doesn't fit between the shocks so you have to get it in at one end of them and move it forward or backward on the extension between the shocks till you get to the plug. The mess comes in when you get the plug loose but now you can't get the socket out of the way fast enough. So you often wind up with oil all over the tool, the shocks, and your hand.
I just look at it as part of the ownership experience and make sure I have a rag on hand.

PS here's a tip, get the bike into a vertical position or it won't drain all the oil out and as a bonus you'll have less oil drooling over the left shock tube.

Refilling it is a simple matter of getting a funnel and pouring the oil in through the dipstick hole. After you put the plug back in and I believe it takes a full quart.

One thing I forgot to mention. All of the plugs, engine included, use the same size rubber O-ring for a seal. These are common parts and every dealer has them in stock. I suggest you get several (half a dozen) and keep them in your tool box. Your 'supposed' to replace them every time you use one of the drain plugs. Its not really needed in many cases but they are cheap enough that you can keep a couple of extras taped in an envelope to the inside cover of your tool box 'just in case'.
 

Last edited by In Memoriam Citoriplus; 04-30-2009 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:33 AM
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I have the bike up on a stand and I colapsed the clutch cable/lever to the bar. After tightening up and leaving a bit of play by the perch (1/16 of an inch) the lever is still hard to engage (squeeze). You think maybe something is out of adjustment or wrong? Should it be easier? Have you ever squeezed one of those hand excercisers grips? it's ALMOST about as tight as that but not quite. Any ideas if this is normal or ?


PS. Thanks for the post of above citoriplus!!! I'm going to give it a go!!!... I have the inspection cover off, how do I know if the oil is low, I put my finger in towards the bottom of the chain and there is oil covering part of the bottom chain but not much.

Thank you
Houdini
 

Last edited by houdinitattoo; 04-30-2009 at 08:38 AM.


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