Progressive "drop in" lowering kit
#13
So in the instructions posted above one model shows 0.0".. Does this mean not to install the spacer or not to cut it? I'm looking at this for my bike and after reading through the instructions for the FXCW I'm not sure I want if I have to take my front end apart like they are saying.. I'm tired of tearing things apart on this bike.. lol
#15
I'm finished. Pretty impressed with Progressive's design. Very straightforward and no seals to replace! Bike sits much lower in the front now. Step by step:
1. Jack up the bike.
2. Unbolt the bars and lay them on the tank.
3. Unbolt the little clamp holding your front brake line so that you can have some wiggle room.
4. Unbolt the forks.
5. Slide the forks down until the fork cap is an inch or two above the bottom tree and re-tighten the bottom tree bolts.
6. Use a 13/16" open end wrench and remove the fork caps (keep pressure on the last couple threads so they don't pop out and you drop them on your fender).
7. Loosen the bottom tree bolts and remove the entire front end (wheel and all). Just set the tire on the ground between your feet and slowly remove the stock springs, letting the fluid drip back in the fork tube.
8. Put in the new parts in this order: Long spring, short spring, washer PVC washer.
9. Push down on the fork cap while spinning the fork tube OR hold the tube and turn the cap, whatever is easier for you
10. Re-tighten the fork caps in the same manner that you took them off in steps 5-6
11. Reinstall the front forks and torque everything to factory specs
12. Hang your brake line again
13. Double check your work and go enjoy
That being said, I cut my spacer to 3-7/8" and sanded it smooth to 3-3/4" total length. I'm going riding, pics will come later if I come home before dark
1. Jack up the bike.
2. Unbolt the bars and lay them on the tank.
3. Unbolt the little clamp holding your front brake line so that you can have some wiggle room.
4. Unbolt the forks.
5. Slide the forks down until the fork cap is an inch or two above the bottom tree and re-tighten the bottom tree bolts.
6. Use a 13/16" open end wrench and remove the fork caps (keep pressure on the last couple threads so they don't pop out and you drop them on your fender).
7. Loosen the bottom tree bolts and remove the entire front end (wheel and all). Just set the tire on the ground between your feet and slowly remove the stock springs, letting the fluid drip back in the fork tube.
8. Put in the new parts in this order: Long spring, short spring, washer PVC washer.
9. Push down on the fork cap while spinning the fork tube OR hold the tube and turn the cap, whatever is easier for you
10. Re-tighten the fork caps in the same manner that you took them off in steps 5-6
11. Reinstall the front forks and torque everything to factory specs
12. Hang your brake line again
13. Double check your work and go enjoy
That being said, I cut my spacer to 3-7/8" and sanded it smooth to 3-3/4" total length. I'm going riding, pics will come later if I come home before dark
Last edited by stupid_rope; 02-03-2010 at 06:20 PM.
#16
After extensive testing, I can say that I am pleased with the product. The suspension was a lot easier on my body (since I have no shocks out back) and the overall control of the bike was much improved. Plus it changed my riding position which allows me to ride faster and longer. Overall, an awesome product for $120 considering it takes very little time to accomplish and its very clean and straightforward.
Before pic is on the right After the PSI drop-in kit and new Rad II mirrors, left:
Before pic is on the right After the PSI drop-in kit and new Rad II mirrors, left:
Last edited by stupid_rope; 02-04-2010 at 02:58 PM.
#17
nice work rope, she's looking great. I took my lowers apart for some PCing , but that was almost 6 months ago and dont recall what it looked like in there..
I have a few ??'s regarding the install. Do the forks have to come off the bike, or can the lowering springs be installed through the top ?? some pics of the install would be great.
Thanks
I have a few ??'s regarding the install. Do the forks have to come off the bike, or can the lowering springs be installed through the top ?? some pics of the install would be great.
Thanks
#18
nice work rope, she's looking great. I took my lowers apart for some PCing , but that was almost 6 months ago and dont recall what it looked like in there..
I have a few ??'s regarding the install. Do the forks have to come off the bike, or can the lowering springs be installed through the top ?? some pics of the install would be great.
Thanks
I have a few ??'s regarding the install. Do the forks have to come off the bike, or can the lowering springs be installed through the top ?? some pics of the install would be great.
Thanks
It IS possible to do without pulling the forks out of the trees but you have to be careful not to tear up the upper tree when installing the new springs. The old springs are long and floppy so you can bend them as they come out to clear the upper tree. The new lower springs are shorter and not as floppy. So to answer your question, yes, it is possible but I just found it easier to yank them out.
#19
#20
Rope: I like the way your bike sits but I don't understand why you didn't give yourself some shock travel in the back. Is it purely for looks?
This looks like a future mod for me too. It's either this or kick out the front tire by using some 6 degree trees. I'm not sure how the trail would be and I know I'd lose the ability to lock the front end. This looks like a better mod and less expensive.
This looks like a future mod for me too. It's either this or kick out the front tire by using some 6 degree trees. I'm not sure how the trail would be and I know I'd lose the ability to lock the front end. This looks like a better mod and less expensive.