LOL! I didn't even think of that.

 

Yeah that was pretty funny. No leaning the bike over doesn't seem to make that big of a difference.

 

My first thought was a stuck float bowl, but you'd get sputtering if that was the case.
Maybe a contact on the ignition switch is pitted and the switching off and on is making enough contact until it heats up enough to cause an open circuit?

 

It sounds more like a bad ignition switch. The solid state ones the Moco uses are cheap and go bad sometimes. If it's the mechanical pole type they are even worse. Next time it quits instead of cycling the switch just jiggle it a bit and see if it fires back up. If it's not the switch itself it's probably a loose wire on the backside of the switch. None of the those other things, carb, vapor lock, clogged fuel line, would be alleviated by just cycling the ignition switch over two seconds . . .

 

sounds electrical . i had a bad coil that would shut off on my old car. turn off key and worked again. had bad on off switch to that too. also dirty fuse.

 

I've been fighting this same issue all summer. Replaced the Crank Position sensor back in March and bike has been acting up since then. Thought I had it fixed by replacing the bank angle sensor, it cured 99% of the problem but it still cuts out when I twist the throttle all the way on and off, then back on again. Please keep us posted as to what you find.

 

anyone ever get check engine light or check for trouble codes? i have seen the engine relay cause issues but most of the time it stops and wont start again, someone has a turn signal sensor go bad and that killed the engine but i think it wont run at all. still sounds like fuel issue if no engine codes

 

Also check your battery cables. Had that happen to me once or twice about 10 years ago. Couldn't figure it out, then found the screw on the battery had vibrated loose. Hadn't backed all the way out, but was loose enough to cause problems. Tightened them up and never had the problem again.

 

I just found my issue tonight after chasing this same issue all summer. I had it narrowed down to the bank angle sensor, as this will kill the engine, lights stay on and the bike won't restart until you cycle the ignition switch off/on. I replaced the sensor that that fixed it about 90% of the time, but still would cut out at high rpm shifts.
The sensor has 3 wires, 1 ground, 1 from the ecm that should show 4-6 volts when turned on, and another wire from the ignition fuse that should show 12 volts. I didn't have any voltage at the plug from the ign fuse. Turns out the wire was broken internally about a 1/4" from the plug. This same wire powers the on/off switch at the handlebar. Poked around with a probe until I found the break.
It's pretty easy to check and you can eliminate this if your problems continue.

 

Thanks for posting the solution.