Softail Shock adjustment
#1
Softail Shock adjustment
When I went looking for another Bike my wife was not interested in riding much any more so I picked up a low milage 07 deluxe,well you know when the wind blows things change. Now she wants to ride again, I would of went for a touring bike if I have of known yea I know I should of known don't rub in. Iam 230 lbs. she is around 130 lbs. the bike bottoms out on dips I know you can adjust the shocks but I need a ball park place to start 1/2 turn full turn or what?
#2
If you have your owner's manual it says which way to turn the shock to adjust them. You may need the spanner that inserts into the shock to turn it or I've been told it can be done by hand. Get a spanner wrench, (PN HD-94455-89) and then adjust the shocks to your desired setting.
Turn the adjuster plates out (toward the locknut) increases the spring preload to carry a heavier load.
Turning the adjuster plates in, (away from the locknut) decreases the spring preload to carry a lighter load.
I think you just kind of work with it until you get the setting you want.
Here's a bit more on this adjustment.
Softail shock adjustment.pdf Link 1
Softail shock adjustment.pdf Link 2
avel.
Turn the adjuster plates out (toward the locknut) increases the spring preload to carry a heavier load.
Turning the adjuster plates in, (away from the locknut) decreases the spring preload to carry a lighter load.
I think you just kind of work with it until you get the setting you want.
Here's a bit more on this adjustment.
Softail shock adjustment.pdf Link 1
Softail shock adjustment.pdf Link 2
avel.
Last edited by barjbar; 08-30-2010 at 10:23 AM.
#3
Tools:
- Shock spanner wrench
- 1 1/16 open end wrench
- White paint pen
Parts:
- Adjustable shock (Stock, Long or with Lowering Kit).
Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.
2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 o’clock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks
3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) :
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.
There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible
Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:
- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)
- Shock spanner wrench
- 1 1/16 open end wrench
- White paint pen
Parts:
- Adjustable shock (Stock, Long or with Lowering Kit).
Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.
2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 o’clock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks
3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) :
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.
There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible
Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:
- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)
#4
The above sounds much more pin point mathimatical way of doing it but I will tell you what I did and it worked for me. Tighten the shocks as much as you can while it is lifted in the air with out removing the shocks from the bike or using the spanning wrench. Worked perfect for me. I am 225 and the old lady is 165. We often pack the bags full and another bag for the rack weighing around 75 to 80 more pounds. Rides great doing this for me. Once you tighten the shocks remember that they will be way tight. Give them 1000 miles to loosen up. Riding by yourself if you hit a bump you will spring board up because of the back shocks being so tight but no worries. After 1000 miles it will loosen up some. Been riding this way for 20K miles and its been perfect. If you tightn the shocks too tight well you just as well ride a bike with no shocks.
#6
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