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Have a trouble code? Forum members post several methods to clear different types of error codes. Sometimes, error codes can be caused by wires that have rubbed through and are shorting out. Be sure to check your ground connections to ensure it is not a simple fix before tearing your bike down.
Read the full discussion below to find out more.
Read the full discussion below to find out more.
How To: Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)
#21
Have you been able to fix it ?
Any hints?
I think I have a faulty battery...
#22
Help me please! Very briefly two gallons of water found their way into my gas tank. Only two days before that I had run the motorcycle to charge the battery. It was real cold so when it didn't start I assumed it was cold related. It warmed up and still no start. I did the obvious troubleshooting and found the water in my tank. I have drained the tank and filed it with clean gas. I added SeaFoam as a precaution. Still no start. I performed the ignition on/off 3x and hold the odometer button. I get no fault codes. With that being said here is my question: If I am not getting codes when I use the odometer method, do I still need to do the diagnostic link / jumper pin method? I have now removed the tank completely and cleaned and dried my injectors. They were wet when I removed them, and the supply and return line both had water in them. I also replaced the spark plugs. Can someone please tell me what direction I need to move in next. I'm confused that the bike ran before the water was installed in the tank, but having removed it the bike still won't start. Thanks and Semper Fi!
#23
Help me please! Very briefly two gallons of water found their way into my gas tank. Only two days before that I had run the motorcycle to charge the battery. It was real cold so when it didn't start I assumed it was cold related. It warmed up and still no start. I did the obvious troubleshooting and found the water in my tank. I have drained the tank and filed it with clean gas. I added SeaFoam as a precaution. Still no start. I performed the ignition on/off 3x and hold the odometer button. I get no fault codes. With that being said here is my question: If I am not getting codes when I use the odometer method, do I still need to do the diagnostic link / jumper pin method? I have now removed the tank completely and cleaned and dried my injectors. They were wet when I removed them, and the supply and return line both had water in them. I also replaced the spark plugs. Can someone please tell me what direction I need to move in next. I'm confused that the bike ran before the water was installed in the tank, but having removed it the bike still won't start. Thanks and Semper Fi!
#24
Yes, I checked for spark first thing. I've got plenty of fire. I also ohmed the coil per the service manual. When I emptied the fuel tank it did not occur to me that there might be water trapped in the supply lines so I have pulled the tank and fuel lines. Dried out the tank and cleaned the injectors. I'm going back with it now. I did find water in the supply lines and on the injector screen. Prior to disassembly I looked for codes using the ignition on 3x and hold in on the odometer button on the canopy on the 3rd. cycle. Those were all clear. I am wondering if I also need to jump pins 1 and 4 on the diagnostic link, or was it enough to check the codes they way I mentioned above? I have a lot of trouble trying to read those codes because it seems like they blink so fast I have trouble counting the blinks. Up until someone installed 2 gallons of water in my fuel tank my bike has never failed to start. Thanks for your reply and any further info you might have. I'm a good mechanic, but I'm at a loss on this one.
#25
I followed your instructions and jumped out the DTC link with a female spade tip. I turned the switch on. The Engine light came on as always, went out, and did not flash a single code. Please do correct me if I'm wrong, but I read on one of the threads that if I jump the diagnostic link and get no codes, then there are no codes to retrieve. I probably should have mentioned that I have a Power Commander III. Would that in any way affect code retrieval?; ergo, do I need to leave the Power Commander out of the equation and reconnect the ECM connecter to the ECM, or does it matter? As of yet I've not reinstalled the fuel tank after I cleaned the fuel lines and injectors so I've not tried to start the bike. I'm just wanting to cover all the bases while I have the components where they are more easily accessible. Thanks and Semper Fi.
#26
Code for a carbed bike
Hey , Anyone know the code for a carbed bike ? I have a 2000 Road King & have a flashing engine light -
4 slow - 4 slow - 6 fast
4 slow - 2 slow - 6 fast
Any ideas on what they mean ?
I also did the speedo ck & I get the d01-d10 . Most clr - 1 says ck - I presume that one has an issue . I think it was the d08 - I had the booster pack & battery charger on it - voltage went up a bit too high . I think that's what caused that .
Next click leads me to "cal03" any ideas on what that means ?
4 slow - 4 slow - 6 fast
4 slow - 2 slow - 6 fast
Any ideas on what they mean ?
I also did the speedo ck & I get the d01-d10 . Most clr - 1 says ck - I presume that one has an issue . I think it was the d08 - I had the booster pack & battery charger on it - voltage went up a bit too high . I think that's what caused that .
Next click leads me to "cal03" any ideas on what that means ?
42 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light high NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON; 44 Current 35 Tachometer high. Hope that helps. Semper Fi.
#27
Hey , Anyone know the code for a carbed bike ? I have a 2000 Road King & have a flashing engine light -
4 slow - 4 slow - 6 fast
4 slow - 2 slow - 6 fast
Any ideas on what they mean ?
I also did the speedo ck & I get the d01-d10 . Most clr - 1 says ck - I presume that one has an issue . I think it was the d08 - I had the booster pack & battery charger on it - voltage went up a bit too high . I think that's what caused that .
Next click leads me to "cal03" any ideas on what that means ?
4 slow - 4 slow - 6 fast
4 slow - 2 slow - 6 fast
Any ideas on what they mean ?
I also did the speedo ck & I get the d01-d10 . Most clr - 1 says ck - I presume that one has an issue . I think it was the d08 - I had the booster pack & battery charger on it - voltage went up a bit too high . I think that's what caused that .
Next click leads me to "cal03" any ideas on what that means ?
press the odometer switch in while turning the ignition on (with the run switch engaged)
d01 is the Speed sensor output shorted low,
d02 is Speed sensor power output shorted high or open,
d03 and d04 are not used,
d05 is Speed sensor return shorted high,
d06 is Speed sensor return shorted low,
d07 not used,
d08 is Speedometer power overvoltage,
d09 is Speed output shorted high and
d10 is Speed output shorted low or open.
If the code has CLr added (d01CLr) which means clear no problems
The CAL 03 will be the last one Calibration 3=Domestic.
#28
I know this is a softail thread but i believe the ECM and BCM are the same. I'm having a problem with no spark. The codes i get are as follows u0100, u0141, u0142 I know that the u0100 is lost communication with the ECM. Im just wondering if my BCM has gone bad. This started after I did a rebuild and moved my ignition switch from the neck to the console. I moved the switch and it was fine then I did the rebuild. This is on a 2012 streetbob. sorry new to this stuff.
#29
I know this is a softail thread but i believe the ECM and BCM are the same. I'm having a problem with no spark. The codes i get are as follows u0100, u0141, u0142 I know that the u0100 is lost communication with the ECM. Im just wondering if my BCM has gone bad. This started after I did a rebuild and moved my ignition switch from the neck to the console. I moved the switch and it was fine then I did the rebuild. This is on a 2012 streetbob. sorry new to this stuff.