Have you checked all the wiring to ensure there is not a loose cable? I had this issue and it turned out to be a poorly crimped wire on the circuit breaker. But, recently the problem recurred. i am not sure if it is the super cold weather we have been having or my lack of riding the biek as I don't run a tender on it. We'll find out when I go to start it today. Good luck!

Drew

 

Couple of points. For clarification 5mA = .005 Amps. Also if the battery has some shorted cells or someone jumped start the bike incorrectly or connections are loose it could have fried the diodes (which allow the flow of + electrons one way only hence DC). The alternator (stator) puts out AC current. It may show this while running if you check for AC current at the battery(maybe so small you will not be able to see it with out a sensitive meter). I worked on a car that was doing this and it had taken out 2 ECM for the spark control before I worked on it and found the problem along with replacing the 3rd ECM. You can check the leads of the stator with an ohm meter no problem. If it looks good, it's probably the regulator and I would probably replace the battery also.
Be sure you lets us know the problem. That is what a lot of us work for on here. Thanks

 

Too many decimal places: 5 mA = .005 Amps. What you typed = 5 micro Amps (uA).

 

50mA, which is the load that alekit is/was speaking of, is .05 Amps. Not sure what the parasitic load should be on your particular scoot. Bluehighways claims anything over 35mA (.035 Amp) is excessive, not sure, but he does have a good outline for troubleshooting.

I’m wondering though, how are you checking the load? I assume you are using a volt/ohm meter? The reason I ask is that most people that are familiar with using the internal shunt of a meter to determine the actual current draw, usually have a little more electrical savvy then what you sound like from your original post. Not trying to insult your intelligence, just wondering if these values are accurate.

You claim in your original post that the battery is low after just 2 days. Is that with a fully charged battery? Or is it low to begin with? A healthy, charged battery is going to have 17-25 amp hours of reserve capacity, depending on the make. That’s enough capacity to handle a 50mA load for a few weeks, let alone a few days.

Is the battery charging while the motor is running? What is the voltage while running? What is the open circuit voltage of the battery after it has been off charge for a while? A fully charged, healthy battery, should maintain a full charge on the bench for some weeks.

 

I'm guessing here that you may be misreading your meter and actually have a total of only 4 mA parasitic load. 2 mA for the Voltage Regulator and 2 mA for whatever you are calling the "intermittently box". That kind of a draw would take 90 - 120 days (at the worst) to run down a fully charged battery. I suspect your problem with your battery lies elsewhere.

Let's take this one step at a time: Step # 1 - What is the voltage between the battery terminals (not the cables that connect to the battery) when the engine is running at a fast idle (1,500-2,000 RPM)?

 

Thank you. I corrected it. Got to overthinking as they say and said to myself--mill = 1 million and went off checking. Did not notice the uA in the conversion. mill = 1000 Thanks
I would think one would need to check the load at this level by disconnecting the battery and running it thru you amp meter, not volt/ohm meter although many DC meters do all three and then some. Mine has a buzzer and a freeze but it only freezes high and will not freeze low which would be handy to see what volts drop to on battery when cranking.

 

Using a voltmeter amps.
I am familiar with this tool.
The absorption on the two components had been reported to me by the mechanic who for now has not resolved the problem.
Today I redid the measurements: 50mA actually read immediately, but after a few seconds drops to 31mA and is stable.
I removed all the fuses, the negatives on the bar and connectors under the seat but nothing.
I found two stripped wires behind the wheel that touches the cable, under the fender.
I rearranged them but they were not the problem.
It may be that the cables were damaged by touching another ?.... I do not think ....
When the bike is running good charging: 14.5 V
The tests I always do the battery charged through maintainer.
I can not tell if 31mA is still acceptable and the battery fails, or you risk changing the battery the same problem?

 

Not sure what you can tell about your problem by fuses since you have the problem with the key off which shuts the power off to the fuses. I assume key off in above. I told you in my above post about the tsm pulling power for a few seconds after key shut off. That's you 50 to 30 drop. That's normal. Also does not sound like you ever checked ignition switch. Final. 1. Pull ignition switch wire and check. 2. If OK check wires on stator for ohms and to be sure none are going to ground.None of the three wires should show and connection to ground and apx 0.1-0.3 ohm between each other 3 If OK unplug regulator and see if problem goes away. If it does replace regulator, have battery checked good or replace it for safety sake. The regulator can have a leaking diode and still work since it does sound like it's charging enough to keep battery up if it did not have leak somewhere.

 

+1 (I too was an avionics mechanic a long, long, long time ago.)

 

In fact they are 31mA, multiplied by 24 hours are 0.74 A, multiplied by three days are more than 2A.
Are not sufficient to send the battery ko?
If so, however, is to change the battery!?