Anyone have a diagram of a clutch setup on a rocker?
My buddy is changing bars and the new clutch cable seems to be too long.
It has more slack than the adjuster will take out....I'm sure I'm missing something. Any tricks to this?
I've done clutches on older softails and sporties, never a 6speed.
HELP! I hate going to the steeler and asking. They look at you like a dick!
I dont think it has to do with the cable itself, the cable length wont matter even if its two feet too long. Did you adjust the clutch itself under the derby cover? Theres a good video on youtube that shows how to accomplish that, but basically you loosen the jam nut, bury the rod sticking out, then turn it back out a half turn, and tighten the jam nut back.
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2007 Softail Night Train-Pewter Denim Metallic
103ci, SE 255's, D&D Fat Cat 2-1, Screaming Eagle Heavy Breather, HD Super Pro Tuner with Dyno Tune, Lowered
A brave man will not live forever, but a coward will never live at all
I dont think it has to do with the cable itself, the cable length wont matter even if its two feet too long. Did you adjust the clutch itself under the derby cover? Theres a good video on youtube that shows how to accomplish that, but basically you loosen the jam nut, bury the rod sticking out, then turn it back out a half turn, and tighten the jam nut back.
LOL, careful with that. Last night, I was doing that very same thing, and the retention ring that holds the release plate, broke the casting on the clutch pressure plate. Burying that bolt puts pressure on the right side spindle, where the clutch cable enters the right ride cover. Now, I get to pull the whole outer primary cover, and replace the pressure plate. Happy happy, joy joy.
To the OP, the reason you're having trouble is because the clutch cable is in the pulled back position, and there's too much pressure to allow the cable to move. Once the pressure is released, the cable will move freely, and you can adjust to take up the slack.
I bet right now, you're thinking that the cable that moves inside the cable is too long....
True story. That little ramp/ball set up can be a pain. If you try hard enough, you can actually remove/replace the cable without pulling the retaining clip/ball/ramp assembly out of the right side cover.
Make sure your cable is all the way back in the housing. Loosen the cable adjustment on the cable. Open your derby cover. Loosen the jamnut. Back the adjustment screw out enough, not all the way.Tighten your cable adjustment now. Pull your clutch lever till it is all the way back and let go. Now tighten the adjustment screw with an allen key. Watch your clutch lever move out to its normal spot. Once that happens you should feel the adjustment screw stop. Now back it out 1/2 to 1 turn and tighten jamnut. You can take up the excess slack with the cable adjustment now.
LOL, careful with that. Last night, I was doing that very same thing, and the retention ring that holds the release plate, broke the casting on the clutch pressure plate. Burying that bolt puts pressure on the right side spindle, where the clutch cable enters the right ride cover. Now, I get to pull the whole outer primary cover, and replace the pressure plate. Happy happy, joy joy.
To the OP, the reason you're having trouble is because the clutch cable is in the pulled back position, and there's too much pressure to allow the cable to move. Once the pressure is released, the cable will move freely, and you can adjust to take up the slack.
I bet right now, you're thinking that the cable that moves inside the cable is too long....
wow talk about bad luck, ive never heard of anyone doing that, how much pressure did you put on the rod? I only go finger tight, then back it out.
__________________
2007 Softail Night Train-Pewter Denim Metallic
103ci, SE 255's, D&D Fat Cat 2-1, Screaming Eagle Heavy Breather, HD Super Pro Tuner with Dyno Tune, Lowered
A brave man will not live forever, but a coward will never live at all
Need help with Clutch cable...
