Write-up Front signal relo for 11-12 Fatboy Lo
#32
Sorry to bring a thread back from the past, but my question is to those who have done this no problems with the ECM when cutting the turn signals?
I have 2013 fatboy lo I was trying to add new turn signals the alloy arts ones http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alloy-Art-Bl...-/161240132882
My bike is at a shop and the guys was saying cutting the 3 wires might mess mess with the ECM since the alloy arts only has 2 wires to go back does anybody know?Thanks
I have 2013 fatboy lo I was trying to add new turn signals the alloy arts ones http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alloy-Art-Bl...-/161240132882
My bike is at a shop and the guys was saying cutting the 3 wires might mess mess with the ECM since the alloy arts only has 2 wires to go back does anybody know?Thanks
#33
Just did this conversion to my 2012 Fatboy. The interesting thing is that the brown and purple wires are exactly opposite to the photo provided by Misbehavin. Of course, the rear signals worked correctly but the front signals worked opposite. The right front signal activated when I hit the left button, and vice versa.
I spent an extra hour trying to figure out how to release the wires from the Tyco multiconnector before I was able to switch the wires. Everything works great now.
I spent an extra hour trying to figure out how to release the wires from the Tyco multiconnector before I was able to switch the wires. Everything works great now.
#34
Just did this conversion to my 2012 Fatboy. The interesting thing is that the brown and purple wires are exactly opposite to the photo provided by Misbehavin. Of course, the rear signals worked correctly but the front signals worked opposite. The right front signal activated when I hit the left button, and vice versa.
I spent an extra hour trying to figure out how to release the wires from the Tyco multiconnector before I was able to switch the wires. Everything works great now.
I spent an extra hour trying to figure out how to release the wires from the Tyco multiconnector before I was able to switch the wires. Everything works great now.
Harley03joe
#35
This was a very helpful thread and I'd like to add to it if I may.
The OP tells you to get a 6 pin plug and additional wire which works fine as this is what I did the first go around. However just and FYI you don't need the plug or the wire as you already have it when you cut the wire from your bar mounted signals. Unless you are planning to go back to the bars with your signals you can trace back from where the six pin plug is and find the signal wires going up and out the top of the triple trees and into the bars. I cut the wires here and it allowed me to use the existing plug along with more than enough wire to reach the signals on the forks. Another FYI ,if look at the plug you will notice it has a push tab to release the plug, With this push tab facing out towards you,the top three wires run the right side signal, at least on my '13 FLS that's how it goes, you can go ahead and verify with a voltmeter. As far as which wires are which someone has already showed that with a picture in an earlier post.
Hope this helps someone else looking to do the relocate as the OP and others have helped me with the basics of getting the job done.
Thanks.
The OP tells you to get a 6 pin plug and additional wire which works fine as this is what I did the first go around. However just and FYI you don't need the plug or the wire as you already have it when you cut the wire from your bar mounted signals. Unless you are planning to go back to the bars with your signals you can trace back from where the six pin plug is and find the signal wires going up and out the top of the triple trees and into the bars. I cut the wires here and it allowed me to use the existing plug along with more than enough wire to reach the signals on the forks. Another FYI ,if look at the plug you will notice it has a push tab to release the plug, With this push tab facing out towards you,the top three wires run the right side signal, at least on my '13 FLS that's how it goes, you can go ahead and verify with a voltmeter. As far as which wires are which someone has already showed that with a picture in an earlier post.
Hope this helps someone else looking to do the relocate as the OP and others have helped me with the basics of getting the job done.
Thanks.
#36
I just bought a MS Batwing fairing and it covers the stock signal. I'm thinking of keeping the stock ones and add another pair on the fairing brackets, so I keep the original look while riding w/o the fairing and get visible signal with the fairing on.
Can I leave alone the std signals and wiring and use the plug under the tank to feed the other pair I will add? I would add another accessible quick connector to make the fairing removal easy
What do you think?
Can I leave alone the std signals and wiring and use the plug under the tank to feed the other pair I will add? I would add another accessible quick connector to make the fairing removal easy
What do you think?
#37
I just bought a MS Batwing fairing and it covers the stock signal. I'm thinking of keeping the stock ones and add another pair on the fairing brackets, so I keep the original look while riding w/o the fairing and get visible signal with the fairing on.
Can I leave alone the std signals and wiring and use the plug under the tank to feed the other pair I will add? I would add another accessible quick connector to make the fairing removal easy
What do you think?
Can I leave alone the std signals and wiring and use the plug under the tank to feed the other pair I will add? I would add another accessible quick connector to make the fairing removal easy
What do you think?
#38
This was a very helpful thread and I'd like to add to it if I may.
The OP tells you to get a 6 pin plug and additional wire which works fine as this is what I did the first go around. However just and FYI you don't need the plug or the wire as you already have it when you cut the wire from your bar mounted signals. Unless you are planning to go back to the bars with your signals you can trace back from where the six pin plug is and find the signal wires going up and out the top of the triple trees and into the bars. I cut the wires here and it allowed me to use the existing plug along with more than enough wire to reach the signals on the forks. Another FYI ,if look at the plug you will notice it has a push tab to release the plug, With this push tab facing out towards you,the top three wires run the right side signal, at least on my '13 FLS that's how it goes, you can go ahead and verify with a voltmeter. As far as which wires are which someone has already showed that with a picture in an earlier post.
Hope this helps someone else looking to do the relocate as the OP and others have helped me with the basics of getting the job done.
Thanks.
The OP tells you to get a 6 pin plug and additional wire which works fine as this is what I did the first go around. However just and FYI you don't need the plug or the wire as you already have it when you cut the wire from your bar mounted signals. Unless you are planning to go back to the bars with your signals you can trace back from where the six pin plug is and find the signal wires going up and out the top of the triple trees and into the bars. I cut the wires here and it allowed me to use the existing plug along with more than enough wire to reach the signals on the forks. Another FYI ,if look at the plug you will notice it has a push tab to release the plug, With this push tab facing out towards you,the top three wires run the right side signal, at least on my '13 FLS that's how it goes, you can go ahead and verify with a voltmeter. As far as which wires are which someone has already showed that with a picture in an earlier post.
Hope this helps someone else looking to do the relocate as the OP and others have helped me with the basics of getting the job done.
Thanks.
Just getting home from deployment and started to think about this mod and found this thread-
I have a 2011 Fat Boy Lo:
I am under the impression, from looking at this thread and one other thread that both right/left turn signals are already plugged into the connector under the right side of the gas tank, if this is correct-why are you removing the gas tank to get at this plug?
If you cut the turn signals off on each side, at the bars, why can't you pull the right/left side wire out of the handlebars starting from where they go into the handlebars on the triple trees? Would pulling the turn signal wires out of the bars cause problems? I have Street Slammers-doesn't look like the wires would get caught on anything.
All that would be needed is to solder each turn signal to the left hand wire group/right hand wire group.
And yes..I hate messing with the lectric parts of my bike
Would this work?
Thanks for the help in advance.
#39
The last two ideas work great if you have a 2010 and older bike. In 2011 the game changed with the BCM and Canbus wiring. On the 2011 and up bike the wire for the front turn signals are wired right into the hand control. There is no wire to run down the bars and to the relocation. Below is a pic of the disassembled control switch. It shows where the signal wires are cut and capped off with heat shrink. The wires end right there in the switch on 2011 and up bikes.
#40