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Wild 1 Chubby 12" Outlawz Installation

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  #21  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by FXBadass
Bolt your stock bars, then loosen your lower riser bolts. You should be able to gain that 1/16" no problem. Re-tighten your riser bolts after torquing your clamp bolts.
OK. I just came back here to ask if I could loosen IP my risers and then put the hew bars on and then tightened everything up. Good to know I can. Lol

So I need to put the stock bars back on in order to unbolted the risers? I have never taken apart my risers. Guess I need to check the manual on that for riser torque values and such also.
 
  #22  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:04 PM
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Should I pull each riser all the way out and add blue loctite? It doesn't say that in the manual, only to tighten 30-40 ft lbs.
 
  #23  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:13 PM
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Stock bars back on will keep the risers from spinning. U just need to loosen the risers to gain a bit of lateral movement. No locktite needed, just retorque on new bars when done.
 
  #24  
Old 09-07-2012, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by FXBadass
Stock bars back on will keep the risers from spinning. U just need to loosen the risers to gain a bit of lateral movement. No locktite needed, just retorque on new bars when done.
Got it done! I didn't think about loosening up the risers to gain clearance but it worked perfect. I had read others put blue loctite on the upper clamps so I did that. They are only torque to 15 ft lbs so they should come off pretty easy. Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:14 AM
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Looks like I need longer throttle/idle cables and brake cable. My clutch cable seems to me OK....not sure why it would be OK but the others aren't? I got the brake line and throttle/idle cables to work but the brake line is pretty tight and to get the brake level high enough to bolt on the bars, I had to undo the hard part that bolts in two places on the forks (one under the stem and on on the upper tree). I think I would ride it but it really needs to be longer to look and feel right.

I think both of the switch housing cables will be long enough. I will know more tomorrow when I actually put those back together.

I guess I will be getting the Magnum Shielding Chromite II cables....so.... another project.

My main issue I am just not sure how much longer I should go.... I would assume +2" would be enough?
 
  #26  
Old 09-07-2012, 05:53 AM
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you could mount your bars....then take a piece of string (or wire that holds shape) and trace the existing cables...then keep going to where you want them on your bars.

measure the string (or wire) to get an idea of the ++ length you need for the new cables.

it is time consuming, but better than guessing on wrong length.
 
  #27  
Old 09-07-2012, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Redder
you could mount your bars....then take a piece of string (or wire that holds shape) and trace the existing cables...then keep going to where you want them on your bars.

measure the string (or wire) to get an idea of the ++ length you need for the new cables.

it is time consuming, but better than guessing on wrong length.
From what I can tell on the Magnum shielding website, I can only go up +2" and then its in 2" increments. My stock cables are close to fitting now so that's why I thought just going up 2" should work. No?

I think I could keep my clutch cable the same length but may go up 2" on that also just for the extra room.
 
  #28  
Old 09-07-2012, 10:29 AM
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ghoticov
good job so far i like the looseing of the riser trick!
I read early in your post about the grips with no glue
your bike might be new enough where they are the "glueless type" of
grips check into that before you fudge that up on that sweet ride mang
keep taking pics
 
  #29  
Old 09-07-2012, 10:31 AM
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That sucks that your throttle & idle didn't reach! +2 should do, but like already said, double check with string. Too long is a problem too for interference and rubbing. When you get all that done, get a late model Heritage top clamp for your risers and get rid of the 2 piece top clamps.
 
  #30  
Old 09-07-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Redder
you could mount your bars....then take a piece of string (or wire that holds shape) and trace the existing cables...then keep going to where you want them on your bars.

measure the string (or wire) to get an idea of the ++ length you need for the new cables.

it is time consuming, but better than guessing on wrong length.
Well, I did the best I could with still having the tank on but I went with +2 over stock on the clutch cable and then +4 on the throttle/idle cable and brake line. I also went with the EZ Align one piece brake cable versus having the hard piece under the forks.

The +4 might be a little long but it will at least give it some room whereas now it is pretty tight. I can turn my bars both ways but I cringe when I do. Lol

Cables will all be in by mid next week...will probably try to tackle the install myself on that also.
 


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