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Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
#3021
I'd tend to listen to Scott - he knows his stuff. if you are going to do a 124 or something like that then yeh that's a lot of cubic inches and a cooler could be needed. that's one of the reasons I didn't go bigger than the built 107 on my big dog. IMO it's hard to beat a jagg 10-row cooler with a fan mounted to it, but they are fugly. Do you plan to do a lot of "parade" cruising or sitting in traffic for long periods? that is the only place where massive surface area will help- and I can see why the bud cooler would work in that regard. true, typically you need air over the fins on an oil cooler for it to work. large surface are will also transfer heat away. but a polished surface is way less effective at static heat transfer.
Why not keep your build to a point where you don't need to add things like an oil cooler? there's lots of guys running really strong 103 and 107 kits and no need for a cooler. doing something like a 30T front pulley swap will do the same thing as adding more cubic inches- e.g. your bike will be a helluvalot faster and torquier but again no need for a cooler. A 700lb HD putting down a solid 115hp/120TQ, cammed for best TQ from 2000-5000 rpm, with a final drive ratio in the low to mid 3's is a wickedly fun ride by any standards. and it's typically quite reliable too.
Why not keep your build to a point where you don't need to add things like an oil cooler? there's lots of guys running really strong 103 and 107 kits and no need for a cooler. doing something like a 30T front pulley swap will do the same thing as adding more cubic inches- e.g. your bike will be a helluvalot faster and torquier but again no need for a cooler. A 700lb HD putting down a solid 115hp/120TQ, cammed for best TQ from 2000-5000 rpm, with a final drive ratio in the low to mid 3's is a wickedly fun ride by any standards. and it's typically quite reliable too.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 05-31-2015 at 10:01 AM.
#3022
I have the largest available Jagg oil cooler installed on my Breakout, on the left side downtime above the shifter, and it REALLY WORKS.
Before the cooler, I would get oil temperatures as high as 250 degrees on a Texas summer day, just normal riding, NOT hotdogging.
Since installing the cooler, the highest I have EVER seen was 220, and the "normal" is 190 to 210, depending on ambient outside temperature.
Just saying' . . .
Sorry, I don't have a handy photo.
Jim G
Before the cooler, I would get oil temperatures as high as 250 degrees on a Texas summer day, just normal riding, NOT hotdogging.
Since installing the cooler, the highest I have EVER seen was 220, and the "normal" is 190 to 210, depending on ambient outside temperature.
Just saying' . . .
Sorry, I don't have a handy photo.
Jim G
#3024
I have the largest available Jagg oil cooler installed on my Breakout, on the left side downtime above the shifter, and it REALLY WORKS.
Before the cooler, I would get oil temperatures as high as 250 degrees on a Texas summer day, just normal riding, NOT hotdogging.
Since installing the cooler, the highest I have EVER seen was 220, and the "normal" is 190 to 210, depending on ambient outside temperature.
Just saying' . . .
Sorry, I don't have a handy photo.
Jim G
Before the cooler, I would get oil temperatures as high as 250 degrees on a Texas summer day, just normal riding, NOT hotdogging.
Since installing the cooler, the highest I have EVER seen was 220, and the "normal" is 190 to 210, depending on ambient outside temperature.
Just saying' . . .
Sorry, I don't have a handy photo.
Jim G
Yep that is the best setup as far as functionality.
#3025
#3027
#3028
Another friend of mine is wanting to see if he can do one with the Willie G skull in black and chrome.
I remember someone on here changing the coil for the Accel packs but I can't find the post to ask if he would get rid of the coil. If not I will get a new one and send it to him.
#3029
cool- keep us posted we need some good alternative options. actually a well done grenade might look cool, especially with a hanging pin. chrome, black chrome, titanium or satin black.
the accel packs do get rid of the grenade but now you gotta figure out what to do with the ignition switch. and if you get rid of the grenade coil and the OE plug wires your ion knock sensing is no longer going to work properly. IMO best option is to have a nicer cover for it.
the accel packs do get rid of the grenade but now you gotta figure out what to do with the ignition switch. and if you get rid of the grenade coil and the OE plug wires your ion knock sensing is no longer going to work properly. IMO best option is to have a nicer cover for it.
#3030
cool- keep us posted we need some good alternative options. actually a well done grenade might look cool, especially with a hanging pin. chrome, black chrome, titanium or satin black.
the accel packs do get rid of the grenade but now you gotta figure out what to do with the ignition switch. and if you get rid of the grenade coil and the OE plug wires your ion knock sensing is no longer going to work properly. IMO best option is to have a nicer cover for it.
the accel packs do get rid of the grenade but now you gotta figure out what to do with the ignition switch. and if you get rid of the grenade coil and the OE plug wires your ion knock sensing is no longer going to work properly. IMO best option is to have a nicer cover for it.