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Old 02-13-2015, 01:41 PM
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  #5111  
Old 09-20-2016, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Dennis
Has anyone fitted the daymaker headlight to the billet casing on there Breakout as Harley says it doesn't fit, which isn't quite true as I have done it tonight, only query I have is you can just see the retaining ring inside and was wondering if anyone has come up with a solution how to hide it


The fitting issue of Daymaker with Billet Headlight Shell has been added recently since when I did this mod there were no restrictions.
Anyway this is my current setting and haven't found any acceptable solution to hide the retaining ring you're mentioning...
 
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  #5112  
Old 09-20-2016, 07:20 AM
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I said screw the stock headlight, grabbed an older Fatboy housing off of Ebay (7" instead of stock 5 3/4"), and grabbed a JW Speaker Evo 2 headlight. Same company that makes the Daymaker, just an updated version. For half the price.
 
  #5113  
Old 09-20-2016, 11:30 AM
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If you look at the right side you can see the retaining clip, the only way I can see this working is to measure the space between the light and the bezel edge and maybe make a couple of spacers to insert behind the light to hold the light firmly in place.

 
  #5114  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:26 PM
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Daymakers are the way to go !
 
  #5115  
Old 09-23-2016, 08:14 PM
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Default Found some Breakout riser extensions on ebay

Harley,fatboy,sportster,dyna,and custom handle bar riser extensions
( 322137221257 )
mrtsperformancemachine

If anyone is looking for breakout riser extensions i found these on ebay and ordered mine he can machine them for you in 1 1/2".
 
  #5116  
Old 09-24-2016, 11:58 PM
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Got the Andrews 57h cams removed and the 48h cams installed. Nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon. just rebuilt my tune file for the Powervision with a 48h-optimized base file sent to me from Dynojet. test start and ride tomorrow morning.

In case anyone is wondering- I pulled the 57h cams out because they were lowering my dynamic compression too much due to the later intake valve close. this was expected when I installed them but I didn't think it would be that noticeable on an otherwise stock motor, and with the 30/70 belt pulleys.

With just me riding solo it's not tht noticeable and bike runs quite good, but going 2-up with 120lbs of missus on the back does make it apparent that some grunt is lost below 3k rpm. The 48h cams have an intake close event 1 degree sooner than stock so should bump the compression up just a hair above what it was with the stock cams.
 
  #5117  
Old 09-25-2016, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by burnsy87
I said screw the stock headlight, grabbed an older Fatboy housing off of Ebay (7" instead of stock 5 3/4"), and grabbed a JW Speaker Evo 2 headlight. Same company that makes the Daymaker, just an updated version. For half the price.
Sounds cool. Got a pic?
 
  #5118  
Old 09-25-2016, 05:08 PM
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got some tuning runs in today with the 48h cams. there is no comparison, it runs stronger in all areas versus the 57h cams. but that goes to reason with the 48h cam's earlier intake close (29) keeping the compression up where it should be and coming on closer to 2k rpm.
I thought it might run out of steam up top but I was holding it WFO up through 5k rpm shift points, 4th, 5th, 6th and it was still pulling great as the speedo was walking past 100mph. that's when I let off. with a smile.

I'd expect the same good results from the 57h cam but only with a bit more compression added to the stock motor- e.g. running some .030 head gaskets. Or, if for some reason your stock motor is on the higher side of stock compression tolerances then you'd probably be ok with the 57h. For my stock motor, static compression, and tested dynamic compression after the 57h install, the 57h just bled off too much compression during operation to keep the grunt down low. this is due to the later intake close event of (38). the only fix here is to raise compression, get a 4 degree cam advance gear so the 57h's close the intake valve sooner, or get different cams that are already cut to close the intake valve sooner. I chose the 48h's because they had the better intake valve close specs I was looking for, along with the other good characteristics of a mild drop in performance cam.

For reference, the stock 103 cams have an intake close event of 30. As you close the intake valve later (larger number), the operating compression of the motor will become lower. This is ok with high compression motors and in many cases it is needed to keep operating compression within tolerable street build limits, but it can be 'not so good' with stock compression most of the time.

Anyway the 48's are staying in. Bike pulls like a monster now and it's plain obvious TQ went way up over the 57h. Whomever said the 48h is not for the 103" and it is only for the 96" motors, is plain wrong. It's a seriously kick *** cam in a stock 103" and if the 57h is not doing it for you, give this one a consideration instead of the SE204.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 09-26-2016 at 12:00 AM. Reason: fixed typo on 57h cam intake clsoe event - 38 not 42
  #5119  
Old 09-25-2016, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
got some tuning runs in today with the 48h cams. there is no comparison, it runs stronger in all areas versus the 57h cams. but that goes to reason with the 48h cam's earlier intake close (29) keeping the compression up where it should be and coming on closer to 2k rpm.
I thought it might run out of steam up top but I was holding it WFO up through 5k rpm shift points, 4th, 5th, 6th and it was still pulling great as the speedo was walking past 100mph. that's when I let off. with a smile.

I'd expect the same good results from the 57h cam but only with a bit more compression added to the stock motor- e.g. running some .030 head gaskets. Or, if for some reason your stock motor is on the higher side of stock compression tolerances then you'd probably be ok with the 57h. For my stock motor, static compression, and tested dynamic compression after the 57h install, the 57h just bled off too much compression during operation to keep the grunt down low. this is due to the later intake close event of 42. the only fix here is to raise compression, get a 4 degree cam advance gear so the 57h's close the intake valve sooner, or get different cams that are already cut to close the intake valve sooner. I chose the 48h's because they had the better intake valve close specs I was looking for, along with the other good characteristics of a mild drop in performance cam.

For reference, the stock 103 cams have an intake close event of 30. As you close the intake valve later (larger number), the operating compression of the motor will become lower. This is ok with high compression motors and in many cases it is needed to keep operating compression within tolerable street build limits, but it can be 'not so good' with stock compression most of the time.

Anyway the 48's are staying in. Bike pulls like a monster now and it's plain obvious TQ went way up over the 57h. Whomever said the 48h is not for the 103" and it is only for the 96" motors, is plain wrong. It's a seriously kick *** cam in a stock 103" and if the 57h is not doing it for you, give this one a consideration instead of the SE204.
good follow up dog. Sounds like the seat of the pants feels better now. How does it sound?
 
  #5120  
Old 09-25-2016, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
got some tuning runs in today with the 48h cams. there is no comparison, it runs stronger in all areas versus the 57h cams. but that goes to reason with the 48h cam's earlier intake close (29) keeping the compression up where it should be and coming on closer to 2k rpm.
I thought it might run out of steam up top but I was holding it WFO up through 5k rpm shift points, 4th, 5th, 6th and it was still pulling great as the speedo was walking past 100mph. that's when I let off. with a smile.

I'd expect the same good results from the 57h cam but only with a bit more compression added to the stock motor- e.g. running some .030 head gaskets. Or, if for some reason your stock motor is on the higher side of stock compression tolerances then you'd probably be ok with the 57h. For my stock motor, static compression, and tested dynamic compression after the 57h install, the 57h just bled off too much compression during operation to keep the grunt down low. this is due to the later intake close event of 42. the only fix here is to raise compression, get a 4 degree cam advance gear so the 57h's close the intake valve sooner, or get different cams that are already cut to close the intake valve sooner. I chose the 48h's because they had the better intake valve close specs I was looking for, along with the other good characteristics of a mild drop in performance cam.

For reference, the stock 103 cams have an intake close event of 30. As you close the intake valve later (larger number), the operating compression of the motor will become lower. This is ok with high compression motors and in many cases it is needed to keep operating compression within tolerable street build limits, but it can be 'not so good' with stock compression most of the time.

Anyway the 48's are staying in. Bike pulls like a monster now and it's plain obvious TQ went way up over the 57h. Whomever said the 48h is not for the 103" and it is only for the 96" motors, is plain wrong. It's a seriously kick *** cam in a stock 103" and if the 57h is not doing it for you, give this one a consideration instead of the SE204.
Hey Dog, glad you like the 48s, I'm thinking about those for my Rocker's 96ci...just curious about something. According to the Andrews site, the 57 intake close is at 38 not 42, the same as the 37H that I put in my BO. Andrews also says that the 37s are best for stock compression 9.0/1- 9.5/1. So I'm wondering what other # in the cam spec would make the 57 not as strong down low and need more compression? Other than lift the 37 and 57 specs are very similar.... I love the 37s in my BO with it's 9.62/1 compression and just like the Andrews site says, it's got a broad torque range, strong 2200-5600rpm!!
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 09-25-2016 at 11:11 PM.


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