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Old 02-13-2015, 01:41 PM
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  #5121  
Old 09-25-2016, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocker B
Hey Dog, glad you like the 48s, I'm thinking about those for my Rocker's 96ci...just curious about something. According to the Andrews site, the 57 intake close is at 38 not 42, the same as the 37H that I put in my BO. Andrews also says that the 37s are best for stock compression 9.0/1- 9.5/1. So I'm wondering what other # in the cam spec would make the 57 not as strong down low and need more compression? Other than lift the 37 and 57 specs are very similar.... I love the 37s in my BO with it's 9.62/1 compression and just like the Andrews site says, it's got a broad torque range, strong 2200-5600rpm!!
hey bud thanks for the catch that was a typo on my part- yes 38 close not 42!

Still though, a close at 38 is going to be closer to 3k rpm to come on the cam. you need an earlier close closer to 30 to have it come on closer to 2k.

The later you close the intake the less operating compression you will have. operating compression is different than static compression. operating compression is what the engine actually sees as the effective compression when in operation. this compression is dictated by when the cam closes the intake valve.

Like I said this is not always a bad thing- in my Big Dog Evo motor I have cams with 650 lift and an intake close of 41. But my static compression is 10.6:1 - my operating compression is just about 9.6:1. any more than that and I would be pinging all over the place on pump gas. the cam close event let me run my comp right on the edge. i built the motor around the cam.

In my case on the BO, the 57's were soft - I did my compression tests to verify - and it was not cost effective to pull the heads to install thinner head gaskets or deck them to raise comp. it was easier to throw in a set of similar spec cams that have an earlier intake close to keep my operating compression in a more performance range. the 48's have some good duration built in so they also pull far out to 5k. Really no complaints at all.

I would definitely do the 48's in your 96" - it is a very good set of cams.
 
  #5122  
Old 09-26-2016, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cdonis
good follow up dog. Sounds like the seat of the pants feels better now. How does it sound?
The idle sounds about the same as the 57 which is good. Quick rapping on the throttle sounds really mean. a bit sharper bite when i let off the throttle. overall sounds as good as the 57h but the all around grunt is tangible and very easy to feel the improvement. For example, with the 57h i could get a bit of rubber off the line. With the 48h it spins the back tire like it's on a banana peel. caught me off guard! the pull up high in 5th / 6th is better. but with my operating compression up higher now it stands to reason I'll have more power.

I'm still tuning- got a few runs in today and my PV-TT had me scale my tune to 117ci. - so that is where I stopped for today will run more tomorrow and maybe get a short vid in for sound. I have a bit of ping in the 3500-4500rpm range, 70-95 map, so have to dial that down too. normal tuning stuff though.
 
  #5123  
Old 09-26-2016, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
hey bud thanks for the catch that was a typo on my part- yes 38 close not 42!

Still though, a close at 38 is going to be closer to 3k rpm to come on the cam. you need an earlier close closer to 30 to have it come on closer to 2k.

The later you close the intake the less operating compression you will have. operating compression is different than static compression. operating compression is what the engine actually sees as the effective compression when in operation. this compression is dictated by when the cam closes the intake valve.

Like I said this is not always a bad thing- in my Big Dog Evo motor I have cams with 650 lift and an intake close of 41. But my static compression is 10.6:1 - my operating compression is just about 9.6:1. any more than that and I would be pinging all over the place on pump gas. the cam close event let me run my comp right on the edge. i built the motor around the cam.

In my case on the BO, the 57's were soft - I did my compression tests to verify - and it was not cost effective to pull the heads to install thinner head gaskets or deck them to raise comp. it was easier to throw in a set of similar spec cams that have an earlier intake close to keep my operating compression in a more performance range. the 48's have some good duration built in so they also pull far out to 5k. Really no complaints at all.

I would definitely do the 48's in your 96" - it is a very good set of cams.
Still wonder why according to Andrews, the 37H works best with 9.0-9.5/1 compression and I know from experience pulls hard from 2200rpm, but you say the 57 needs more compression, but it has the same intake close at 38?? With such similar specs, what makes the 57 need more compression then the 37?... is I guess what I'm asking??
 

Last edited by Rocker B; 09-26-2016 at 12:55 AM.
  #5124  
Old 09-26-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocker B
Still wonder why according to Andrews, the 37H works best with 9.0-9.5/1 compression and I know from experience pulls hard from 2200rpm, but you say the 57 needs more compression, but it has the same intake close at 38?? With such similar specs, what makes the 57 need more compression then the 37?... is I guess what I'm asking??
What you have for the information is fine- and your experience is legit. I'll try and clarify. my comments will apply equally to the 37h cams since it is the same as the 57h but with less lift. Actually, in a stock bike, the added lift of the 57h cams are wasted. the stock heads don't flow well enough.

but keep in mind that Andrews did design these cams for the 103, mainly because it was thought that the 103 would give more tq and stock compression than the 96, and they could make it more of a midrange to upper cam and let the 103's naturally added grunt assist with the lower end grunt.

Note that they spec a compression range of 9.0-9.5:1 - Now if your bike is at 9.5 or 9.6:1 static comp then you'll get decent results from this cam. if your static comp is say 9.0-9.2:1, it is going to feel soft. it is a huge difference in performance being at 9.0:1 versus 9.5:1

My bike, stock, is at the lower end of comp specs. this is probably due to mfr tolerance variances and it's probably something like my pistons sit a bit farther down in the hole than on your bike.

so let's get back to the engine math- because that will never lie. it is right 100% of the time.

lets say we have a bike like yours with 9.6:1 static comp, 103" stock motor etc.
with stock camshafts (IVC@30) the dynamic comp (operating compression of the motor) will be 9.18:1
with the 37 or 57 cams (IVC@38), the dynamic comp will be 8.92:1
with the 48h cams (IVC@29), the dynamic comp will be 9.21:1
^ We can see here that the strongest running cam is the 48h with dynamic comp higher than stock at 9.21:1. that's awesome.

I'd prefer to have the 48's because they will keep dynamic comp higher which equals more bang, more power. it's plain physics. Everything else equal, you'll have a stronger pulling bike running 9.21:1 dynamic compression than running with 8.92:1 dynamic compression. it may sound like a small margin, but it is actually quite a significant difference in power being .08 under 9:1 versus being .21 over 9:1 for dynamic compression.

I would only use cams with a later open intake to make sure my dynamic comp was not too high and getting at or over 9.5:1 dynamic, which will lead to ping on typical pump gas. I like to see my dynamic comp in the 9.2-9.4:1 range on typical street builds. 9.4:1 being on the rowdier side and 9.2 being on the safer side.

A cam intake close at around 30 will bring the bike on the cam at a lower RPM than a cam with an intake close at 38 or higher. the pull you presently feel at 2200 is more your engine running strong, good tuning than it is the cam. it's not 'on the cam' yet, even though some aspects of the cam's operation are contributing. if you ran 48's you would feel slightly more power and it would come on earlier. I hope the numbers above helped explain why. if i was happy with how my bike was running with the 37 or 57, i would not necessarily change them for the 48's. in my case I was not happy with it and the 48's fixed things right up. Now if I were choosing from scratch and my relatively stock bike was running 9.4:1 to 9.6:1 static compression, I would get the 48h cams over the 37h or 57h, no question.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 09-27-2016 at 10:37 AM. Reason: typo on the stock dynamic comp result - fixed
  #5125  
Old 09-27-2016, 10:39 AM
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Default Cam specs and info for Andrews 57h, 48h, stock 2007-2013 HD twin cam 103, Breakout

These are my tested results of the stock 2013 Breakout 103" motor with stock cams > then 57h cams > then 48h cams. The 48's run the strongest across the board. just wanted to share it in case someone finds it interesting / helpful.

Engine tested April 26 2016 prior to cam upgrades:
  • Static Compression Ratio @ 9.53:1 (HD specs call for 9.6:1 stock but there is always some mfr variance) Static compression ratio remains the same regardless of cams installed
  • >> Stock cams (IVC @30): 187 F / 188 R CCP, 9.11:1 Corrected (Dynamic) Compression Ratio
  • >> 57H cams (IVC @38): 181 F / 182 R CCP, 8.68:1 Corrected (Dynamic) Compression Ratio
  • >> 48H cams (IVC @29): 188 F / 189 R CCP, 9.14:1 Corrected (Dynamic) Compression Ratio
  • * CCP's based on altitude @ sea level

Andrews 57h cam specs - optimal at 9.8:1 - 10:1 static cr, results in 9.2:1 - 9.3:1 dynamic cr:
I: 18/38 236 .560
E: 46/14 240 .560
Good 3000-6800rpm

Andrews 48h cam specs - optimal at 9.5:1 - 9.7:1 static cr, results in 9.1:1 - 9.3:1 dynamic cr:
I: 13/29 222 .548
E: 43/15 238 .548
Good 2000-5000 rpm

HD Stock cam specs for 2007-2012 Injected HD air cooled twin cam V Twin:
I: 12/30 198 .484
E: -38/04 222 .484

ONE OF THE BEST reads you'll find on learning about correct cam choice for your current motor's build and compression:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

if you study the info closely and look at the charts, you'll see why the 57h / 37h cams will benefit from higher compression than stock vs the 48h being optimal with less compression. Some of this has to do with looking at the duration numbers. You'll see that the 57h cams' duration spec is optimal at higher compression like 10.5:1 and 3000-6800rpm range. whereas the 48h duration spec is optimal at about 10:1 and 2000-5000rpm

However- we cannot run 10.5:1 with the 57h or 37h cams due to the early close intake event. this is where it is a bit tricky because we have to remember this is a twin cam and we cannot really operate it on pump gas at much over 9.4:1 dynamic compression. Optimally we should stay around 9.1-9.3.

So working on the compression a bit to keep us in a safe range of operation, we see that the 57h (and 37h) would be optimal in the twin cam with a static compression of 10:1. that gives us a dynamic comp of about 9.26:1 - awesome. the bike will pull good off the line due to the good operating compression and will "come on the cam" at 3k rpm, pulling to 6800.

For the 48h cams- we can really see why this cam works so well in the 96 and 103 with a stock compression range of about 9.5-9.6:1. This cam was designed for it. With a stock compression of 9.6:1 we get back a static comp of 9.21:1 - excellent. the bike will pull hard off the line and come on the cam at 2000rpm, pulling hard until 5000rpm (per the duration numbers). IMO this is a top choice for a street drop in cam on 96 or 103 unmodified motor and from what I can see and have felt, better by far than the 57h.

The caveat being, if you throw some compression at the 57h (or 37h) it will be a better performer and pull a bit harder mid to upper rpm than the 48h. but we're splitting hairs and it's not going to be a big diff on a stock motor with stock heads. Actually the stock heads negate any flow benefit of the higher lift cams.

There are other good cam choices out there from Woods, S&S, SE etc, this was really intended to just get some info out there on two popular "drop in" cam choices and document my own experience / results with them.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; 09-27-2016 at 11:31 AM.
  #5126  
Old 09-27-2016, 02:17 PM
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Would it be possible to start a handlebar thread, as I would like to know if anyone has fitted a pair of 2010 fatboy FLSTFB bars to there Breakout as I enquired about the reach bars which here in the UK are £250 then to fit these you need a longer clutch cable £100 also not forgetting upper and lower Brake lines at £60 and £238 which soon adds up with gasket and fluid it finishes of at £700 which in US terms is just shy of $1000.
So would be nice to see who has fitted different bars on there breakout.

 
  #5127  
Old 09-28-2016, 01:40 AM
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Can I suggest an alternative solution that comes to my mind?
I guess that if you buy the reach bars (might also find some good preowned ones saving some money since they are the stock CVO bars) and the Thunderbike Flat Risers (cost about €200) "probably" you won't need to change cables nor fluids plus you'd benefit of a nice sleek look.
I can add also that in case you'd need a little more pullback on the above mention setting, you can add some 1"/1,5" chrome riser spacers without further mods needed and the look is great as well; member Eagleray has this riser setting, you can check on his own build thread.
 
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  #5128  
Old 09-28-2016, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Nostradamus74
Can I suggest an alternative solution that comes to my mind?
I guess that if you buy the reach bars (might also find some good preowned ones saving some money since they are the stock CVO bars) and the Thunderbike Flat Risers (cost about €200) "probably" you won't need to change cables nor fluids plus you'd benefit of a nice sleek look.
I can add also that in case you'd need a little more pullback on the above mention setting, you can add some 1"/1,5" chrome riser spacers without further mods needed and the look is great as well; member Eagleray has this riser setting, you can check on his own build thread.
Don't forget, there are also beveled (angled) riser bushings available which can be used to either increase or decrease the reach.
 
  #5129  
Old 09-28-2016, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by HKMark23
Don't forget, there are also beveled (angled) riser bushings available which can be used to either increase or decrease the reach.


Absolutely correct! The choice depends on the amount of further pullback/height needed, spacers a little more, angled bushings a little less.
 
  #5130  
Old 09-28-2016, 07:31 PM
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short video today - idle and couple quick revs with the 48h cams. running very well - only thing is I'd like to try and get my idle MAP down closer to 30-32. it is presently sitting pretty solid at 35-37kpa. but the bike just hauls ***.

 
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