2013 Softail Breakout Mods
#21
Torn down for a bunch of little rework, waiting on the rear fork to push on. The tank being off was the best time to run the control wires for the Legend Air Suspension (L-3C). I'd also recommend doing the throttle cables around this time, or you could do it like me and pull the tank on and off so many times it should be on Velcro. I finalized all the wire routing down the backbone and got the bike ready to start going together. For real.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:25 PM. Reason: afterthoughts
#22
Warranty long gone...
some assembly required. This was the point where I was feeling pretty good about buying the factory service manual for the Breakout. Calibrated torque wrenches and locktite are our friends.
spend $50 on gold plated valve stem caps, but not $15 on a FSM?? Nice.
spend $50 on gold plated valve stem caps, but not $15 on a FSM?? Nice.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:26 PM. Reason: because of stuff i forgot to mention
#23
Primary
Primary pulled... I've been researching and on the phone, emails bla bla bla with a bunch of folks. At the end of the day (couple of weeks), the clear winner was Performance Machine for my project. Jason, in their tech dept helped me sort the details out on this. For the breakout guys, The Rocker primary works like a champ. Odd, but this research helped the primary end up being one of the easiest mods on the bike. Is that how you spell 'easiest'? looks all sorts of wrong.
Oh, the swing arm is back from powder coat. They were out of pink, so I went with the old standby. I had a hard time figuring out the correct rear fork/swing arm spacer positions. The manual was actually written for an FXST on that page. Nice. So, I was already taking pics of the project, that helped get it right. They are only about 0.080" different between the two. Take note on your tear downs.
I also installed the rear pivot bolt head left (backwards) to make maintenance easier down the road. I.E. pulling the rear fork sucks, but pulling the exhaust to pull the rear fork is worse.
Oh, the swing arm is back from powder coat. They were out of pink, so I went with the old standby. I had a hard time figuring out the correct rear fork/swing arm spacer positions. The manual was actually written for an FXST on that page. Nice. So, I was already taking pics of the project, that helped get it right. They are only about 0.080" different between the two. Take note on your tear downs.
I also installed the rear pivot bolt head left (backwards) to make maintenance easier down the road. I.E. pulling the rear fork sucks, but pulling the exhaust to pull the rear fork is worse.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:26 PM. Reason: always edit...
#24
More primary
The bearing race on the trans input shaft has to be pulled off. Do yourself a favor... don't use a slide hammer on your input bearings. Well, if you do, at least show us what happens on your next ride.
I made a home brew version of the tool for about $12. Worked great. I'll put up a pic tomorrow.
I made a home brew version of the tool for about $12. Worked great. I'll put up a pic tomorrow.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:26 PM. Reason: add info
#26
That final pic looks like a PM belt drive..
Not sure if you know this, BDL makes the drive for PM and they put their stamp all over on it...BDL P/N# EVO-8SR
If you wanna save some serious cash...talk to the Ryan at phatperformace..
The retail was for 1873, he was willing sell it for 1700 OTD...
Compare that to the PM which charges 2800$
Not sure if you know this, BDL makes the drive for PM and they put their stamp all over on it...BDL P/N# EVO-8SR
If you wanna save some serious cash...talk to the Ryan at phatperformace..
The retail was for 1873, he was willing sell it for 1700 OTD...
Compare that to the PM which charges 2800$
#27
That final pic looks like a PM belt drive..
Not sure if you know this, BDL makes the drivei for PM and they put their stamp all over on it...BDL P/N# EVO-8SR
If you wanna save some serious cash...talk to the Ryan at phatperformace..
The retail was for 1873, he was willing sell it for 1700 OTD...
Compare that to the PM which charges 2800$
Not sure if you know this, BDL makes the drivei for PM and they put their stamp all over on it...BDL P/N# EVO-8SR
If you wanna save some serious cash...talk to the Ryan at phatperformace..
The retail was for 1873, he was willing sell it for 1700 OTD...
Compare that to the PM which charges 2800$
I think you're right on the money. It looks like a BDL Lockup Clutch and sprockets inside a PM cage. I know for a fact the motor plate and clutch are BDL. BDL had to machine the motor plate and send to chrome for my order. The kit comes with a BDL supplement to set up the clutch. Thanks, for the info and part numbers!
#28
#29
bearing race tool
First things first... here is the pics of the bearing race puller tool I made. The bottom and top plate were made from .125" and fit behind the race perfectly. the shaft is just under 1.00" (0.990" rings a bell, but definately measure). Make sure what ever you come up with drives on the face of the input shaft, not a tapered point that could damage or deform the shaft. Just a suggeston.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:27 PM.
#30
Rear Signals for the Breakout NESS-Harley Davidson ROCKER
These are the new rear signals. I mounted Ness rear LED signals (red of course ) on HD axle covers. Another member here on HD Forums clued me in to these Rocker parts fitting the Breakout. They do fit perfectly over the large nut on the left side. I located my hole pattern, drilled them up for the 5/16" mount and the 1/8"-ish wire harness... installed with loctite, and wet installed the parts together mating with black RTV. Worked great, should be pretty good on the vibration, moisture, and corrosion. Time will tell. I'll get some pics of the wiring up pretty soon.
Last edited by head_hunter; 02-24-2014 at 12:27 PM.