The Shotgun Shock Installation Thread
#1
The Shotgun Shock Installation Thread
If we don't have one already, we should start one. What's that? A thread encompassing all the question about Shotgun Shock installs.
My question:
On my Deuce, I currently have the compressor bolted up to the under side of the transmission. There's about 1/2" gap between the compressor head and the transmission that it needs to be swiveled up yet, but as of now it doesn't look like there's a lot of clearance between the head of the compressor and the shock itself once it's lifted all the way. When that happens, should the shock completely clear the compressor? It won't rub at all will it?
It just looks like space is going to be very limited right now.
And for anyone that's doing the install themselves, breaking the rear bolts loose on the shocks sucks. I have an '06 Deuce that's probably never had them off. I had the rear wheel off the bike to trim bolts on the inner fender supports so my tire will clear and took off the dust guard to access them that way. Fortunately I could remove the fender easily because if not, I would not have been able to get the leverage to remove the bolts. I had a 3/4" wrench connected to the handle of a pipe bender via a heating element wrench for a hot water heater just to get enough leverage to break those bolts loose.
My question:
On my Deuce, I currently have the compressor bolted up to the under side of the transmission. There's about 1/2" gap between the compressor head and the transmission that it needs to be swiveled up yet, but as of now it doesn't look like there's a lot of clearance between the head of the compressor and the shock itself once it's lifted all the way. When that happens, should the shock completely clear the compressor? It won't rub at all will it?
It just looks like space is going to be very limited right now.
And for anyone that's doing the install themselves, breaking the rear bolts loose on the shocks sucks. I have an '06 Deuce that's probably never had them off. I had the rear wheel off the bike to trim bolts on the inner fender supports so my tire will clear and took off the dust guard to access them that way. Fortunately I could remove the fender easily because if not, I would not have been able to get the leverage to remove the bolts. I had a 3/4" wrench connected to the handle of a pipe bender via a heating element wrench for a hot water heater just to get enough leverage to break those bolts loose.
Last edited by Village Idiot™; 03-18-2014 at 10:05 AM.
#2
When I installed mine it did not look like it was going to fit but it did. You will have to loosen the black bracket to rotate the compressor enough to get it to fit. It is a snug fit. The rear shock bolts were not to hard to take off but I've heard some people have to use heat to warm the bolt. Once the compressor is rotated you will not have any clearance issues at all. Just make sure the flat side of the shock is facing the ground. I originally installed mine opposite and had to flip it the right way. I hope this helps. Feel free to hit me up for any more questions.
#3
#4
Another upside down installer here! Everything is fairly easy. Just remember is it isn't going in fairly easy, something isn't right. step back, THINK, and keep going. I smashed the wires on my compressor a bit not having it slid to the right and rotated (in the bracket) when I first put it in there. Other than that I unbolted my rear gas tank bolt and pulled the tank up to run the wires in along the frame neatly.
Glad I didn't have to drill and tap any holes for the compressor mount.
Glad I didn't have to drill and tap any holes for the compressor mount.
#5
Another upside down installer here! Everything is fairly easy. Just remember is it isn't going in fairly easy, something isn't right. step back, THINK, and keep going. I smashed the wires on my compressor a bit not having it slid to the right and rotated (in the bracket) when I first put it in there. Other than that I unbolted my rear gas tank bolt and pulled the tank up to run the wires in along the frame neatly.
Glad I didn't have to drill and tap any holes for the compressor mount.
Glad I didn't have to drill and tap any holes for the compressor mount.
I was worried about this step as I never had to tap anything before but honestly, it was the easiest thing I did up to that point.
I stopped shortly after that as I have to get parts to the powder coater before I can finish up the complete install, so I wasn't required to get it done and if I did, I wasn't going to be able to get the bike back together all the way. I'm going to finish up the shock install by this weekend and have everything together to the point where all I need to do is reinstall the fender, strut covers, and bracing, and shave down the bolts for the inner fender braces then install the wheel.
#6
Tapping the holes wasn't very hard at all. I was a little scared at first to mess something up. I ended up using cutting lubricant along with the tap. I also used a cordless drill with clutch set low. I placed the tap in straight and proceeded forward. I would then reverse the drill to clean out the threads every so often. It was pretty straight forward.
#7
Tapping the holes wasn't very hard at all. I was a little scared at first to mess something up. I ended up using cutting lubricant along with the tap. I also used a cordless drill with clutch set low. I placed the tap in straight and proceeded forward. I would then reverse the drill to clean out the threads every so often. It was pretty straight forward.
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#9