My 2008 Nightrain has an oil leak on top end of my rear cyclinder, which appears to be coming from the top joint.

What joints or seals typically leak in this area - if it's the top joint can this be bought separately - or should I change all seals in this area?

What make of seal should I use? - I ask this because the HD seal leaked at only 9k miles.

 

From your photo and description it appears that you have a leak between the rocker box and rocker box cover. Could be: (1) bad gasket, (2) bolts not torqued properly, or (3) warped cover. You'll have to remove the fuel tank to access it. When possible I prefer to use "James Gaskets".

 

Thanks.

On your advice I've ordered the James Gasket, Rocker Cover, 1999 & Up, Twin-Cam® Models
JGI-17386-99

 

it's 6 bolts. if you can get a flat ratcheting wrench you can get at the bolts without removing the gas tank, maybe just lifting it a bit. But you'll have to figure something out when you go to torque it back down

 

+1 on this. I had the same leak, borrowed a flat ratchet wrench and tightened everything down. Fixed the leak. Didn't change anything, just wrenched it tight.

 

Just a quick FYI...
For the top rocker covers on a Slim, I had to buy a 7/16" x 2" torque adapter from McMaster-Carr in order to reach nearly all of the left side bolts that were under the frame and/or wiring harness channel, and unreachable with just a torque wrench and socket.
I also made use of an online torque wrench adapter calculator to determine the "new" torque value, since adding length to the wrench itself, will change the torque value... ie; by adding 2" inches to the overall length, a torque value of 15.0 ft. lbs will drop to 13.x or so...

 

Thanks for that Jam.

I need to buy myself a good torque wrench, and was looking at one of these:

Eastwood Digital Electronic Torque Wrench 3/8" Drive

Eastwood Digital Electronic Torque Wrench 3/8" Drive

Do you have any recommendations with regards torque wrenches?

 

Job done in just under one hour.

I ordered the tools and gasket the past weekend, and the last item to arrive yesterday was the James gasket.

The useful tips posted here made a world of difference - it's so much better starting a job knowing what to expect and that you have all bases covered - thanks guys.

I went for a short ride and no sign of oil leakage, although it was more of a weep than a leak so will check again after a weeks riding, although I am real confident it's taken care of because the bolts were not correctly torqued and the original gasket is clearly inferior compared to the James gasket.

 

Thanks to the tips and advice here, the oil leak from the rocker cover is 100% sorted,....... now I notice an oil leakage around the oil tank feed pipe and rubber elbow that leads to the drain.

The short rubber hose (item 25) on the feed pipe was really loose and could rotate and shuffle even though the one time use clamps were fully crimped - I fitted two regular hose clamps to this hose and I'm sure that it should seal.

The rubber elbow (item 22) feels soft and in tact, but was covered in oil and grime, which could be from the feed pipe leaking - the elbow feels tight and doesn't twist etc.
I wanted to fit new hose clamps to the elbow but cannot get access to it - I removed the battery thinking that I could get at it that way, but no luck.

I'd really appreciate advice and tips on how to get to the drain elbow and what hose clamps are best for this.

I also read somewhere that there's a update to the drain elbow, something like the drain pipe all in one, but can't find this on the web.

http://www.cyclecityltd.com/oempartf...455-00B\T60\BL

 

Yep, I replaced the same hose. It goes down to the drain plug. I just used a wire cutter to twist off the cheap one-time clamps and pulled the whole thing out at once. Its a tight fit reaching up there if you have big hands but can be done without removing the oil tank. And you're right, the new part is just one piece. Btw, I used small worm clamps to fasten the new hose. No more leaks. One more thing, BE SURE TO DRAIN OIL FIRST.