I was trying to take my front exhaust off last night and the bolt was a little rusty so I hit it with some PB blaster before hand. When I came back to remove the nut half of the stud came with it leaving the other half still in the head and it's broke off flush with the motor so there is no welding a nut to it and backing it out. I've done a little bit of research this morning and people are saying to use a Jim's Exhaust Stud Drill Plate Tools Kit. Is this the best option and if so does anyone have one they would be willing to lend me one to use and I'll pay for shipping both ways?

 

It looks like it just keeps the drill bit aligned, it should be do-able without the tool if you just carefully center punch the bolt and start with a small very sharp bit and work your way up to a larger drill bit to get it big enough to get an easyout into it.
If your real careful you shouldn't hurt the threads in the head, if you do you'll have to put in a helicoil.

 

to add to Hotlap's advice ... Strike the center punch ONLY ONCE ... then re-position the center punch and stike again ONLY ONCE if need be ... Remember that patience is the key to a successful repair ... TAKE YOUR TIME Good Luck :>)

 

I’m trying to picture your situation and I'm thinking that something like this might help you. I have a set and it does work great as I had to use it before not on the bike but other things. You might want to give it a try.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...1&blockType=G1

 

I have to tell you I have used pretty much every back out/easy out ever made over the last 30 years or so and this craftsmen one is the only one that works regularly....most of them just go in the drilled hole and snap off when you twist them...(to the op)BUT I am not saying it will work here...broken exhaust studs are about the worst thing to try and remove and getting the tool to align the drill is prolly a good idea...you really only have one real good chance to get the stud out and you need to make the most of it....I would spray the crap out of it with pblaster and let it sit overnight and even try a few heat cold cycles to help break the bond between the stud threads and head before I even started to drill it out...if you take the head off and take it to a shop they can take the stud out without any issues at all..in the shop where I work we have a machine that will burn the stud out and leave the threads intact...it is actually pretty cool to watch...it has a tungsten straw that has coolant running though it and the tungsten is the electrode for the burn so as it burns out the stud the coolant blows out the molten metal and keeps the casting relatively cool, and it has different diameter 'straws' for different size holes...

 

Wow, that's pretty amazing. High tech machining for sure.

John

 

I've burned out many broken bolts/studs with an acetylene torch over the years ... it takes practice but once you get the hand of it ... bingo !!

 

I got the Jig in the mail today so all I need to do is stop by the dealer to get a stud so I can measure how far I need to drill. The guy that sent me the jig said that you don't have to retap the threads because the bit is the right side to drill out the bolt and then the rest will fall out supposedly.

 

When I worked for General Electric back in the early 70, we burned bolts, taps out of castings all the time. So this technology has been around for a long time.