You may need a few extra washers for spacers. They are a larger diameter. I do a lot of plumbing so I put tape and dope on the threads before threading in the shraeder valves.

 

I highly recommend you change the fluid in the shocks when you get them. It's a very easy procedure, you can either pull the cap/valves/fittings and let gravity drain them (will take a day or two), or make a quick contraption to push on the shocks and force the fluid out. When you fill them, use a plastic soda bottle with a rear diff fluid cap on it to squirt the fluid into the shocks, I put 11 oz (what I drained out of them) of amsoil medium #10 shock therapy in them. I did leave the red fittings in the shocks and plumbed them up so I can adjust the air, I ride two up sometimes and like to put around 24 psi, I run 10-15 psi solo. The HD air pump does work the best, all others will let the air out of the shocks when you pull the hose off. Yes, you will have to use a washer to space the shock out so it will not hit the belt guard. I like the SG shocks so much that I got them on both of my nightsters...

 

Awesome thanks guys.


Mopeman, where do I get the rear diff cap?


Also what size washers and about how many? Or if I remove the belt drive do I still need a couple?

 

It's the pointed cap off a bottle of differential fluid. The washers will be sized to fit the bolts. I used one washer on the upper and lower bolts and have not had any issues. I also painted each washer black to help blend in. If you remove the belt guard, you will not need the washers.

 

Ohh ok. sounds like it's pretty easy to change the oil. Just hang it at an angle for a couple days, then fill it back up. It seems like most people said its about 11oz?


what oils do most people use? I saw that some people use 5weight or 10weight


Mopeman-I'm guessing #10 is 10weight?


Also what's really the difference? The higher the weight the stiffer the shock acts?


I would obviously like it to ride smoother then the stock, but don't want it to be too soft. Would it be better to put 5 weight in since I'm using them on an Iron instead of the heavier SG?

 

If you could provide the shock numbers , or if they're off a 2009 or newer bike would be good to know.
The '09 and newer are valved somewhat stiffer for the frame change in '09.
10wt should be a safe weight to start with anyway like mopeman uses in his.
Even if the weight is wrong , they would still ride better than most 11" stock rear shocks anyway.
The heavier the oil , the stiffer the action is , correct.
Mick

 

10 wt is fine, you really must change the oil as you have no idea what is in there. I used ATF with a seal conditioner for 1/2 and shock therapy 10 wt for the other 1/2.
Works great, keeps the seals tight, no more leaks.

any small bike pump will work but really 0 psi for 1 up, 10 for 2, the KISS rule is in effect.

.

 

Just to comment on some of the above. The air supplements the springs, so is an extra spring in effect. While no air won't change appearance while not sitting on the bike, the shocks will compress when sitting on the bike. Adding air can offset some of that compression or sag.

A 12" SG shock has 2" of total travel and conventional wisdom is that sag when sitting on the bike should be one third of that. You can use air to adjust that if you wish.

 

Any comments on how it affects the ride? This is something I have been considering.

 

I used 10 oz of Mobil 1 atf per shock. Equals 7.5wt.