SLV's 2015 883 Iron Cafe Project
#71
#75
Wheelies, Burnouts and Mayhem? No.
Ticket? Yes.
I was autotuning the PV last week on a lonely road and got nabbed for 55 in a 35. Ouch! I haven't seen the fine yet, but in Georgia and being more than 14mph over the limit, it's probably close to $400.
Updates:
I picked up the bike from the dealership last Tuesday evening. Brand new motor and they moved my 1250 kit from the old motor to the new.
While the bike was in the shop, I found a crack in my aft exhaust pipe about 1/2" from the head. I took the pipe and had it welded while they were finishing up the motor work. More on this...
So far about 350 miles of break-in. The bike runs hot. Head temp creeps up to 420 and above after about 20 minutes of riding. I've been working with Aaron from Hammer performance on map settings, then autotuning from there. It's calmed a bit, but still creeps up to 420+, it just heats up slower.
In all this, the bike runs really well.
Now that we've tried different mapping options and I double checked all EFI connectors, O2 sensors, plug gaps, etc., I've decided to get rid of the Spitfire Hi N' Tight exhaust. It's my second "Boutique" exhaust in an effort to:
- Be different.
- Have a pipe that fits with rearsets.
- Have a pipe that provides good ground clearance.
- Have a reliable exhaust.
The first pipe, DP Customs "Box" pipe (made by Bassani) failed #3 and #4, although I think failing #3 caused the broken bracket that failed #4.
The second pipe, Spitfire Hi N' Tight met all the requirements, but failed #4.
Worse, our heat diagnostics lead me to believe that the Hi N' Tight exhaust is part of the heat build-up for two reasons.
- Reversion of exhaust gases into the intake cycle causing a superhot burn rate.
- The weld on the aft pipe has a good amount of slag in the gas flow. I think this contributes to the reversion. The slag is unavoidable because the outer part had to ground down so the flange could slide over (it's just away from the head about 1/2".)
So now, I've ordered a D&D Bobcat pipe and should have it next week. They get very high marks for performance and quality. Plus it fits with rearsets.
It was also recommended by a friend who thinks he is the second coming of Steve McQueen. This has to carry some weight in my decision. Even if there is a very small chance that he is indeed Steve McQueen reincarnated, I can't risk not taking the advice.
So, the bike runs great but too hot. Hopefully the new pipe and more autotuning helps.
#76
Wheelies, Burnouts and Mayhem? No.
Ticket? Yes.
I was autotuning the PV last week on a lonely road and got nabbed for 55 in a 35. Ouch! I haven't seen the fine yet, but in Georgia and being more than 14mph over the limit, it's probably close to $400.
Updates:
I picked up the bike from the dealership last Tuesday evening. Brand new motor and they moved my 1250 kit from the old motor to the new.
While the bike was in the shop, I found a crack in my aft exhaust pipe about 1/2" from the head. I took the pipe and had it welded while they were finishing up the motor work. More on this...
So far about 350 miles of break-in. The bike runs hot. Head temp creeps up to 420 and above after about 20 minutes of riding. I've been working with Aaron from Hammer performance on map settings, then autotuning from there. It's calmed a bit, but still creeps up to 420+, it just heats up slower.
In all this, the bike runs really well.
Now that we've tried different mapping options and I double checked all EFI connectors, O2 sensors, plug gaps, etc., I've decided to get rid of the Spitfire Hi N' Tight exhaust. It's my second "Boutique" exhaust in an effort to:
The first pipe, DP Customs "Box" pipe (made by Bassani) failed #3 and #4, although I think failing #3 caused the broken bracket that failed #4.
The second pipe, Spitfire Hi N' Tight met all the requirements, but failed #4.
Worse, our heat diagnostics lead me to believe that the Hi N' Tight exhaust is part of the heat build-up for two reasons.
So now, I've ordered a D&D Bobcat pipe and should have it next week. They get very high marks for performance and quality. Plus it fits with rearsets.
It was also recommended by a friend who thinks he is the second coming of Steve McQueen. This has to carry some weight in my decision. Even if there is a very small chance that he is indeed Steve McQueen reincarnated, I can't risk not taking the advice.
So, the bike runs great but too hot. Hopefully the new pipe and more autotuning helps.
Ticket? Yes.
I was autotuning the PV last week on a lonely road and got nabbed for 55 in a 35. Ouch! I haven't seen the fine yet, but in Georgia and being more than 14mph over the limit, it's probably close to $400.
Updates:
I picked up the bike from the dealership last Tuesday evening. Brand new motor and they moved my 1250 kit from the old motor to the new.
While the bike was in the shop, I found a crack in my aft exhaust pipe about 1/2" from the head. I took the pipe and had it welded while they were finishing up the motor work. More on this...
So far about 350 miles of break-in. The bike runs hot. Head temp creeps up to 420 and above after about 20 minutes of riding. I've been working with Aaron from Hammer performance on map settings, then autotuning from there. It's calmed a bit, but still creeps up to 420+, it just heats up slower.
In all this, the bike runs really well.
Now that we've tried different mapping options and I double checked all EFI connectors, O2 sensors, plug gaps, etc., I've decided to get rid of the Spitfire Hi N' Tight exhaust. It's my second "Boutique" exhaust in an effort to:
- Be different.
- Have a pipe that fits with rearsets.
- Have a pipe that provides good ground clearance.
- Have a reliable exhaust.
The first pipe, DP Customs "Box" pipe (made by Bassani) failed #3 and #4, although I think failing #3 caused the broken bracket that failed #4.
The second pipe, Spitfire Hi N' Tight met all the requirements, but failed #4.
Worse, our heat diagnostics lead me to believe that the Hi N' Tight exhaust is part of the heat build-up for two reasons.
- Reversion of exhaust gases into the intake cycle causing a superhot burn rate.
- The weld on the aft pipe has a good amount of slag in the gas flow. I think this contributes to the reversion. The slag is unavoidable because the outer part had to ground down so the flange could slide over (it's just away from the head about 1/2".)
So now, I've ordered a D&D Bobcat pipe and should have it next week. They get very high marks for performance and quality. Plus it fits with rearsets.
It was also recommended by a friend who thinks he is the second coming of Steve McQueen. This has to carry some weight in my decision. Even if there is a very small chance that he is indeed Steve McQueen reincarnated, I can't risk not taking the advice.
So, the bike runs great but too hot. Hopefully the new pipe and more autotuning helps.
Glad to hear your bike is on the road to recovery. I reckon Steve would approve!
#77
When my bike was a stock 2012 Iron Temps would hit 380 Tops. After S/E 1200 Conversion Temps would slowly go to 415-420. That was with a S/E Map. Changed Tuner to PV, Temps still could go to 420. Auto Tuned several times,temps stayed the same. Bike was always running great from the start. I Went in to Quick Tune and raised Fuel % to +5 in low +9 in med and +5 in high. My temps dropped to between 390 to 402. Also the 410 you are referencing is the temp the PV will stop Auto Tuning, above that. Until it runs less than 410 than it will resume tuning. You can edit that higher if you want before starting Auto Tune.
#78
When my bike was a stock 2012 Iron Temps would hit 380 Tops. After S/E 1200 Conversion Temps would slowly go to 415-420. That was with a S/E Map. Changed Tuner to PV, Temps still could go to 420. Auto Tuned several times,temps stayed the same. Bike was always running great from the start. I Went in to Quick Tune and raised Fuel % to +5 in low +9 in med and +5 in high. My temps dropped to between 390 to 402. Also the 410 you are referencing is the temp the PV will stop Auto Tuning, above that. Until it runs less than 410 than it will resume tuning. You can edit that higher if you want before starting Auto Tune.
Interesting. Thank you. I'm going to explore Quick Tune right now!
#79
Ouch-a-roonie, $400 Holy cheese and crackers, probably would have been less for a wheelie! That's a deep cut no matter how you slice it!
Often have I found myself at a crossroads in life, wondering which direction to take, faced with questions; Ginger or Mary Ann, live or memorex, did I thoroughly wipe down all my finger prints?
Of course, it all comes clear when I ask myself, what would Steve McQueen do?
So here's a crossroads pic for ya from out west, can't wait to see and hear the Bobcat on your bike!
Cheers
Often have I found myself at a crossroads in life, wondering which direction to take, faced with questions; Ginger or Mary Ann, live or memorex, did I thoroughly wipe down all my finger prints?
Of course, it all comes clear when I ask myself, what would Steve McQueen do?
So here's a crossroads pic for ya from out west, can't wait to see and hear the Bobcat on your bike!
Cheers
#80
You may have covered this but I searched and didnt see. What brand did you use for your rear sets? I have been tempted so i wont drag my foot pegs anymore but I didnt want to pull the trigger on the RSD's although they are almost garunteed quality. I found a cheaper set but I was wondering about quality.