Sound like you're having fun , it's always nice when things work well.
You will find that the fuel mileage might be better than it's ever been now , because the engine really gets what it needs at all RPM ranges.
This is assuming that you don't ride like a nut because it runs so good .......
When I did my 2006 Electra Glide , the best stock fuel mileage was 45 MPG.
After I got done richening (properly) the carb , I got closer to 51 MPG highway with the stage 1 all complete.
My kids 2001 sportster 883 got just about 60 MPG highway when we were done tweakin it.
Not too bad a carb to work on ?
It's hard to beat the stock carb until you get into crazy land for horsepower , or racing.
Very cool , good job , good feedback.
Mick

 

I had a Dynojet kit with a drilled slide in my Sporty when I purchased it. Ran like chit. Power and was uneven and peaky. Started slow and needed excessive else of the enrichment circuit. Generally ran crappy. This was with recommended DJ settings.

Replaced the slide, bought a CVPerformance kit, and it now runs like a Swiss watch. Even performance across the entire RPM range. This is the second bike that I've had to trash Dynojet carb kits to make run correctly.

 

I'll have to dig around through my files to see if I can find the dyno sheets, but I had a DJ Thunderslide kit in my bike when I purchased it. I then switched it to the CVP kit and a stock slide. I gained +4hp/+3tq (I know the hp number is right, have to check torque) on the dyno after the switch with a much more consistent AFR throughout.

There is a reason the slides are not drilled to begin with. It really messes with the resonant frequency of the slide/spring combo, which in turn leads to poor fuel delivery for the airflow. This means you get sudden rich and lean spots as you get on the gas because the slide is bouncing instead of smoothly opening.

Also OP, your jets are too big for an 883. A 45 slow should not be 3 turns out. If you even need a 45 in an 883 (I did not, but some do), it should be in the 1-2 turn range on the mixture screw. A 170DJ is the same as a 190 Keihin, which is absurdly large unless you've got a ported 1250 or something else.

For reference, my 10.5:1 ported/cammed 1250 only runs a 45 (3 turns out) and 185 main.

 

I'll have to dig around through my files to see if I can find the dyno sheets, but I had a DJ Thunderslide kit in my bike when I purchased it. I then switched it to the CVP kit and a stock slide. I gained +4hp/+3tq (I know the hp number is right, have to check torque) on the dyno after the switch with a much more consistent AFR throughout.

There is a reason the slides are not drilled to begin with. It really messes with the resonant frequency of the slide/spring combo, which in turn leads to poor fuel delivery for the airflow. This means you get sudden rich and lean spots as you get on the gas because the slide is bouncing instead of smoothly opening.
I agree completely, and as you said the "drilling slide" issues are even worse with the "kit" spring over the stock spring...you may not "feel" it going on, but it is and it causes you to lose power..

Also OP, your jets are too big for an 883. A 45 slow should not be 3 turns out. If you even need a 45 in an 883 (I did not, but some do), it should be in the 1-2 turn range on the mixture screw. A 170DJ is the same as a 190 Keihin, which is absurdly large unless you've got a ported 1250 or something else.


I don't agree that the 45 slow is too big because he needs to keep it 3 turns out...it needing to be out 3 turns ALMOST makes it seem as if it is too small, which in turn tells me that something else wrong is going on here. I don't know how to cross reference jets so I will take your word on 170DJ being the same as a 190K, and that is way to big for most all sportsters....

For reference, my 10.5:1 ported/cammed 1250 only runs a 45 (3 turns out) and 185 main.
I have about the same set up and only run a 43 and 180 (just for reference)..and the slow jet is out about 2.5 turns...


I wonder if the OP is doing his adjustments without the bike completely warmed up and the enrichener off...If it is real cold out the bike may take a half hour or more to get to full temp. sitting still, and if he is riding it to warm it up if may never get to full temp...I know when I ride my bike below 35-40f it will bark and cough from the cold for a-long time (miles and miles)unless I leave the enrichener out some....also, if the air is real cold just the cold air going into the engine can screw up the tune...The bike may run good now, but I am willing bet when it gets hot out he is going to have issues with it being too rich....

 

The Dynojet kit I have is not the Thunderslide kit, so we may be comparing apples to oranges. I have had no issues in 24 years and no driveability issues at all, she runs like a new bike. I've ridden lots of bikes over my 48 years riding, and can't see a problem with this one.

All I have is good looking plugs and a butt dyno, so no real hp or afr data.

John

 

went to 2 1/2 turns on A/F mix plug well my plugs are reading tan after trying all 3 stages of the carb when doing plug chops so i am happy with the set up i thank everyone for their help next prob to tackle is speed sensor so i may have all new questions for you lol