Since someone asked about total costs, I'll keep a running total as I go.

699.95 Street Dominator 883 to 1250 Conversion Package, Iron Lined Aluminum NRHS Cylinders,
fits86 and up XL883 - Black Finish
Item# 004-NRIL3563RD-B

50.00 Top End Gasket Kit Upgrade 2007 and up XL
Item# 88-C9177-U

1.00 Ring gap and pre-install pistons
Item# 116-007

28.00 Shipping


98.00 Bronze Oil Pump Drive Gear for 1991-Present Sportster/Buell - 26391-06 $98.00$98.00 USD

9.95 Assembly Lube 4oz, Red Line Assembly Lube, 80312

10.00 Shipping

44.42 Pinion Gear Locking Tool Jims 1665
Item# 331518951903


429.00 Dynojet Power Vision Flash Tuner Harley CAN ECM PV-2 PV2 SOFTTAILS 2011-14 BLACK


25.48 KURYAKYN 1671 TECH CONNECT ACCESSORY MOUNT FOR 7/8" 1" 1-1/4" HANDLEBARS HARLEY


Total So far: $1395.80

 

And now add 200.00 for the clutch, clutch tool, gaskets, primary oil

Energy One or Barnett... might as well do that while you are in there.

Best of luck and keep the updates coming.

 

Here... do it for the peace of mind...

Part numbers of what it is required: I order most of it through Amazon and saved a few $$

Gaskets I got as a , but here is the breakdown with parts number
Primary Cover Gasket - Part Number: 34955-04
Inspection Cover Gasket - Part Number: 34990-08
Derby Cover Gasket (quad ring) - Part Number: 25463-94A
O-rings - Part Number: (2) 11171 for Inspection cover, (1) 11105 for Oil drain plug, (1) 11179 for Clutch cable
Shift Bushing - Part Number: 40574-06 (not sure if I needed, but just in case)
Shifter Shaft Oil Seal - Part Number: 37107-06
2 quarts Formula+ primary lubricant - Part Number: 62600004 (Only one is needed but I want to change the oil again in about 500-1000 miles)
Spring Seat - Part number 37872-90 (Recommended to have a new one ready to use when installing everything back)
Retaining Ring - Part Number: 37908-90 (Recommended to have a new one ready to use when installing everything back)
Clutch pack: I went with Energy One with the 15% stronger spring-
And the tool (must have the right tools for the job) -


Total was 189.83 for the parts listed including shipping (minus the oil, spring seat, and retaining ring, that I bought at the local dealer).

And the reason I did this with a bike with such a low mileage? For peace of mind. After seeing photos of this:

This is a picture of the stock spring plate. The two plates are held together with the springs that are riveted with brass rivets which sheared off. The assembly is in between the regular clutch plates.





I did not wanted to take the risk of that happening to mine... some folks can go 80K miles without issues, others with as little as 15K

Since your bike is so new, I doubt you need new spring seat and retaining ring, but they are inexpensive... so best to have them ready in case you do need them.

 

awesome info man, thanks... I haven't even started looking at the clutch and this gives me a good jump on it... i knew going it is was going to be more that just the $700.. Just want to do it right! I did a clutch on a ironhead a few years ago and it had bunch of cracked plates etc... don't guess this work is all that much different...

 

I just looked at my receipt from Hammer:
739.95 2004+ big fin 1250 kit includes Cometic est top end gasket set
40.00 ring gapping and pre-assembly
-78.00 10% HDF member discount
43.30 shipping

So about the same price over all. The small fin 03 and older are 100 less though.

 

yeah, I went with NRHS because it was a name I recognized. From what I've read both kits seem to be good. Dan has been very helpful with quick response to all my emails. I'm ok with the smaller fins looks wise, was never really an issue. I do live in San Antonio, TX though so I'm hoping there is not a huge difference with cooling between the large and small fins then again I dont ride much in the hot summer. Baking in the sun with boots melting at the stop lights doesn't appeal to me much

 

so from the hammer site:

What are my options on the clutch?

• 883 Models since 2004 have been coming from HD with a weak clutch spring. When you do a conversion on a 2004 or newer model, at a minimum you need to change the spring. A spring is only $27.50, however, to change it requires a $70 spring compressor tool and you'll also probably want a new primary gasket, we offer a high quality rubber coated steel gasket for $12.
• Embedded into the middle of the factory clutch pack is a compensator plate that's held together by brass rivets. Failures of these assemblies aren't nearly as rare as they should be, in fact the compensator plate has been nicknamed the "grenade plate" in some circles. For this reason, many people will go ahead and change it out for an aftermarket "extra plate" clutch pack, especially if they're in there anyway to upgrade the spring as a part of a conversion. The extra friction disc and steel plate included in the extra plate kit together eliminates the factory grenade plate. It's a simple piece of preventive maintenance you can perform. We like and offer the Energy One extra plate clutch pack, which comes with the spring you need and runs $139. So the whole kit-and-kaboodle, the spring, extra plate clutch pack, and tool, runs $209, plus $12 for the gasket

this is what you are getting at correct?

 

So I guess I'm thinking I'll do the clutch and oil drive gear on the stock bike. Get that all buttoned up and working. Then do the heads/pistons etc... I don't think I want to do it all at once...

 

Exactly

 

What, besides the fins of course, is the difference between the small/big fin cylinders?

I would think, (not knowing of course), more fins equal more cooling but again I don't know the answer. Any testing results on this?

Also, for a '90 XLH is that bronze gear needed, or is that the newer models?

Thanks,
Jim