I'll give another thought if you like.
To extend the forks was easy on my '48 , an additional 2" with just a change in damper tubes.
I used dampers for a Roadster # 45925-09 which are 2" longer than stock.



The shorter one would be the stock 7" long '48 part , the longer is the 9" Roadster damper
I had to completely tear down the forks to do this , but you kinda want to do it for the monotubes anyway.
Here's a link to show how easy it is to completely dissassemble and reassemble the forks , it's the AMY does the Hydro Glide video.
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage1.html
When disassembled the forks were full of some kinda black goop , which needed to be cleaned out anyway.
Mine were fairly new , so I didn't have to mess with the bushings or seals.
I think I used a 3' piece of 1 1/2" PVC plumbing pipe as a seal driver , it worked really good.
I set the fork fluid level to the '48 spec ( 7wt Belray) , maybe could have gone higher , but I needed a baseline.
Topped it off with a set of Progressive stock replacement springs # 11-1527 with the spacer cut at 2 3/4" for my weight.
Now I have a fast acting , 2" longer , much better ride than stock , and it goes with the 13" touring (air) rear shocks really well.
If anyone noticed , the Roadster dampers have larger holes which allow for faster reaction to bumps , making them inherently softer.
If I was heavier or a more aggressive rider , I might have gone with a 10wt , but the 7wt works for me.
Mick

 

No you dont need longer tubes. A roadster or a "Standard" sportster have the same fork travel. Last of the standards was 2008. The link I posted above is the correct part number you need. Here is the difference in highth of a 48 unmodified fork and the other 48 fork with monotube for a standard.




You can also go as Mick suggested but that way you have to source more parts. With the monotube thats all you have to buy.

 

Your bike will lean like crazy after, to the point I didnt trust it at least. So you should get a kickstand from a standard or roadster also.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone! Still think I'm just going to go with the monotubes. However, I think I will get the version for the roadster so I can have a bit more travel to match the 13" rear air shocks. This should work correct? Also, about the kickstand, where would be the best place to buy one?

 

Id get a used one from ebay.

 

I took a couple photos today to show how tall the bike would be with Roadster Fork tubes , 13" air shocks , Roadster Jiffy Stand , Badlander seat.







This is my current riding configuration.
With the Badlander seat , it's about 3" taller than stock.
I purchased the Roadster stand from my local dealer , it's about perfect for this height.
Mick

 

i placed an order for mono tubes this week but they are on back order, my danish dealer get´s them trough france or italy. they have never fitted them before so ill be the first at caps in aarhus

my 2015 iron comes std with 13" rear shocks i orderet the std. hight mono tubes not the super low set, and will use belray 7w oil (i just bought RK shocks and they will also get 7w oil)

ill post something wen they here and on the bike

regards
RIX

 

I too am having this debate. I have a 1200R and i dont want to change the height, just improve the handling. I'm leaning towards the monotube kit. How much modification would I need to make on the monotube to get it to the stock roadster height?

 

Which Boston are you in? There are something like 80 of them around the World, but the original is just up the road from me!

Check on the Progressive website that you get the correct version for your model, if need be give them a call. They're an HDF sponsor and seem to be user friendly! Changing springs has no benefit in improving control and damping of the forks, so the monotubes are a better choice IMHO.

 

I just received the monotubes for my 1200L. I decided go the standard length 4.00". I'll match them up with 12.5" shocks, stock length is 11.5".