Thats odd, my '08 1200 roadster has molex connectors...I figured they were all the same.

 

Harley is known to change and use different connector manufacturers and types depending on year and models. I'm not even sure what type of connector ripto will be looking at. Yeah you would think they would stick to a brand at least but some components depending on who really fabricates them dictates more than likely what connectors to use. That was a good video you posted showing the Molex type.

 

Any confirmation as to whether or not I'll have to pull my gas tank off completely to get to the harnesses? I haven't done any relocation of the ignition or wire tuck, I'm not sure if I can just take that plastic siding off to access them.

 

I took my old bars off yesterday and tried to get the left grip off but it wasn't budging so I am thinking it's glued on. I read a trick to spray WD-40 between the grip and bar to loosen it up. Am I going to need to re-glue the grip on my new bars?

 

If the grip is the glue on type, yes you will have to glue it back on. If you can get it off without damage, clean it up good if you use the WD40 or else the new adhesive won't work. Sometimes I luck out by just twisting it back and forth until it breaks free. I use hairspray when I put the grips back on. Its a good adhesive for that and I have never had any problems using it. Just let it sit overnight so that it can dry well.

 

Interesting. Thanks for that.


I also read about tricks for keeping the brake lever depressed and to be aware of some brass bearings in the throttle control. Neither of which I was aware of until after I removed both. Hope I didn't lose/screw anything up. The service manual didn't mention anything about those.

 

Well apparently the manual did mention the brass ferrules and the cardboard, I didn't read the section well enough. Hope I didn't damage the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch.

 

If your brake light stays on, you'll know the plunger was boogered. I cut the head off an 8-penny nail and epoxied it to the tip of the plunger. After 8 years, it still works.
Those brass ferrules are magical. If you don't keep your eye on them, they'll disappear. Placing an old, white sheet under the bike, before dis-assembly, makes finding them much easier. I keep a spare set in my parts bin.

 

Is there any effect on the brake itself, or just the brake light? How could this damage the plunger? I'm not familiar with it.

 

Just the light.
The switch's normal position is pushed in, via a protrusion on the lever. The light comes on when you pull the lever, allowing the plunger to move outward, no longer contacting the lever. The problem arises when you remove the switch housing while the lever is contacting the plunger. It's a very, very small piece of plastic, and the interference between the lever and plunger causes the tip of the plunger to snap. Sometimes, guys get lucky and the tip doesn't break. Often, it does. By pulling the lever in before working on it, and holding it there with a rubber band, a zip tie or a couple of bread ties twisted together, the interference situation is eliminated. Placing a piece of cardboard between the pulled in lever and the switch housing, does the same thing as tying the lever in its squeezed-in position. To me, it's easier to tie it back, rather than deal with the cardboard. It doesn't need to be pulled in a lot or atomic tight. Just, enough.