Starter relay click- help
#1
Starter relay click- help
1984 sportster xlh. My buddy laid my bike down barely on its right side. It stayed running, no physical damage seen, but when he shut it off and we picked the bike up and made sure everything was OK the relay under the seat would just click when we pushed the ignition. After a few tries it started and we got it home and its doing the same thing. The turn signals on the right side arnt working and the headlight is dimming down and back up. I've traced all the wiring, can't find none pinched or damaged. Could this be a damaged relay? I'm headed to get one tomorrow but just wanted some insight. Can't figure out turn signal problem. I've checked the bulbs and wiring.
Last edited by dstull2207@gmail.com; 05-06-2016 at 10:47 PM. Reason: To make things clear
#2
First thing I'd check based on your story is the battery itself.
Clicking sounds when trying to start the bike is a classic dead-battery symptom. Yours may be on the edge, because it occasionally starts now. The dimming headlight is another tell.
The tip-over may or may not be related to this no-start situation. If it truly was a trivial tip over, I don't think there is any reason for the starter to suddenly crap out at exactly the same time--I'd bet that the tip over has nothing to do with the non-start.
The right-side signals not working could be tip-over related, but I'd check them again after verifying the battery's condition before chasing anything else on those for now.
Get out your charger and voltmeter--charge the battery and then check the voltage at rest, idle, and revving up. If it's not at least 12.5v dc at rest after a full charge, that's an issue. At idle it should be more than at rest, and when revving, it should climb convincingly past 13 volts, perhaps to 14 or better, depending on all your particular variables. And, the headlight should get a little bit brighter as you rev from idle if your charging system is working properly.
All the best,
Shane
Clicking sounds when trying to start the bike is a classic dead-battery symptom. Yours may be on the edge, because it occasionally starts now. The dimming headlight is another tell.
The tip-over may or may not be related to this no-start situation. If it truly was a trivial tip over, I don't think there is any reason for the starter to suddenly crap out at exactly the same time--I'd bet that the tip over has nothing to do with the non-start.
The right-side signals not working could be tip-over related, but I'd check them again after verifying the battery's condition before chasing anything else on those for now.
Get out your charger and voltmeter--charge the battery and then check the voltage at rest, idle, and revving up. If it's not at least 12.5v dc at rest after a full charge, that's an issue. At idle it should be more than at rest, and when revving, it should climb convincingly past 13 volts, perhaps to 14 or better, depending on all your particular variables. And, the headlight should get a little bit brighter as you rev from idle if your charging system is working properly.
All the best,
Shane
#3
Selenoid
First thing I'd check based on your story is the battery itself.
Clicking sounds when trying to start the bike is a classic dead-battery symptom. Yours may be on the edge, because it occasionally starts now. The dimming headlight is another tell.
The tip-over may or may not be related to this no-start situation. If it truly was a trivial tip over, I don't think there is any reason for the starter to suddenly crap out at exactly the same time--I'd bet that the tip over has nothing to do with the non-start.
The right-side signals not working could be tip-over related, but I'd check them again after verifying the battery's condition before chasing anything else on those for now.
Get out your charger and voltmeter--charge the battery and then check the voltage at rest, idle, and revving up. If it's not at least 12.5v dc at rest after a full charge, that's an issue. At idle it should be more than at rest, and when revving, it should climb convincingly past 13 volts, perhaps to 14 or better, depending on all your particular variables. And, the headlight should get a little bit brighter as you rev from idle if your charging system is working properly.
All the best,
Shane
Clicking sounds when trying to start the bike is a classic dead-battery symptom. Yours may be on the edge, because it occasionally starts now. The dimming headlight is another tell.
The tip-over may or may not be related to this no-start situation. If it truly was a trivial tip over, I don't think there is any reason for the starter to suddenly crap out at exactly the same time--I'd bet that the tip over has nothing to do with the non-start.
The right-side signals not working could be tip-over related, but I'd check them again after verifying the battery's condition before chasing anything else on those for now.
Get out your charger and voltmeter--charge the battery and then check the voltage at rest, idle, and revving up. If it's not at least 12.5v dc at rest after a full charge, that's an issue. At idle it should be more than at rest, and when revving, it should climb convincingly past 13 volts, perhaps to 14 or better, depending on all your particular variables. And, the headlight should get a little bit brighter as you rev from idle if your charging system is working properly.
All the best,
Shane
#4
Thanks
Thank you. I did check the battery and it tested OK. I just bought my battery. When I turn the ignition on the starter relay is clicking without me touching anything. Then when I attempt to start there's nothing after numerous attempts it finally starts. I appreciate your time and suggestions.
#5
Usually when this happens, it's the connection to the battery. Maybe the bump moves the bolted connection when it tugs on the wire. There have been 3 identical post to this in the last few months. One was the ground. The other two after dozens of people trying to help just never said what it was. You sure it's the starter solenoid clicking or is it the smaller start switch solenoid. That would tell you what is broken. If something is clicking, a switch is shorted I would think.
#7
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: western shore of Gitche Gumee
Posts: 716
Received 196 Likes
on
145 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
Usually when this happens, it's the connection to the battery. Maybe the bump moves the bolted connection when it tugs on the wire. There have been 3 identical post to this in the last few months. One was the ground. The other two after dozens of people trying to help just never said what it was. You sure it's the starter solenoid clicking or is it the smaller start switch solenoid. That would tell you what is broken. If something is clicking, a switch is shorted I would think.
#9
I'd bet the right side throttle/control slipped either "out" on the bar or "rotated" on the bar tearing the wiring going to the control, when I went down on the right side it slid the control out about one inch on the bar and I had to remove the control and splice new wires to it. Everything your describing has wiring in the right side control, open it up and have a look there next.
#10
Brake lights not working either
I'd bet the right side throttle/control slipped either "out" on the bar or "rotated" on the bar tearing the wiring going to the control, when I went down on the right side it slid the control out about one inch on the bar and I had to remove the control and splice new wires to it. Everything your describing has wiring in the right side control, open it up and have a look there next.