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Starting issues

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  #1  
Old 01-05-2017, 08:17 PM
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Default Starting issues

i have an 09 nightster that will not start. I had not ridden in a few weeks due to weather and when i tried to start it a week ago it would give a single click from the starter area lights would dim but no crank or dead battery repeated clicking. I put it on the charge as i could not locate my multimeter at the time.

Tonight I tried starting again and same results. I even tried jumping it from the car(turned off of course) and same result. Single click and no crank. I tried switching the relays and no change. After a bit of reading and searching for my multimeter, i used a heavy gauge wire to jumper directly from the positive of my car battery to the starter... the bolt on the side of the starter gave nothing, but touching the bolt on the top part of the starter assembly results in what sounds like the starter turning, but not engaging. Now to give a little backstory, i recently had to replace the rocker box gaskets as i had developed a decent leak on both front and rear jugs. I mention this because i read in someone elses thread that oil could cause issues with the soleniod. Not sure if this is the issue or if it could just be a REALLY dead battery. I was able to test 12.6V at the battery when it fully charged but have not had it load tested YET. Im really hoping someone may have experienced similar that can point me in the right direction as I know from experience it can be a multitude of things from the relays to the battery to the starter to the security system... and on and on and on please someone help!! sorry for the long jumbled post, just trying to give as much info as possible
 
  #2  
Old 01-06-2017, 06:24 AM
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Charge the battery and then turn the ignition On (headlight on) and test the battery voltage and report back.
 
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:12 PM
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so i found out my charger is not charging anymore. Went to mess with it again today and it was at 5.8V after being on the charger for two days.... so I took it to the closest auto parts store and had them charge it and test it form me. Tested good at 230CCA on a 220CCA rated battery. Brought it home and put it back in, got the exact same result. One click, lights dim and noting more. Battery tested at 12.6-12.7V with bike off, and 12.0-12.2V when bike was on and in run position. help!!
 
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:47 PM
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After you turned the key off following the test, did you check the battery voltage again?
If the voltage stays down around 12.0-12.2V, your battery is bad.
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:59 PM
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i tested it after turning off and its at 12.3-12.4 not sure if that would mean its bad, but wouldn't jumping it negate the potentially bad battery? When I tried to jump it from my car battery I got the exact same symptoms
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:16 PM
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sounds like the starter might have a dead spot and you are stuck on that spot.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dustin1014
i tested it after turning off and its at 12.3-12.4 not sure if that would mean its bad, but wouldn't jumping it negate the potentially bad battery? When I tried to jump it from my car battery I got the exact same symptoms
Unless you had the ignition on for ~20 minutes or more doing the test, I'm still suspicious of the battery condition. 12.3-12.4V puts the battery at a 50%-60% charged state.
I would remove the battery, fully charge it, then take it to an auto parts store and ask them to "load test" it.

The OEM battery on a Sporty is really on the small (amp hour) side for cranking a 1200 and it needs to be in very good condition to turn over the motor.


 

Last edited by cHarley; 01-10-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:51 PM
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ok, i see what you are saying, and i will do this. But back to the question of, wouldn't jumping from the car battery negate this issue by delivering the power from a known good source to the bike? I have only very basic electrical knowledge, so I apologize if this is a dumb question.
 
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dustin1014
ok, i see what you are saying, and i will do this. But back to the question of, wouldn't jumping from the car battery negate this issue by delivering the power from a known good source to the bike? I have only very basic electrical knowledge, so I apologize if this is a dumb question.
Theoretically, yes. But I've often had trouble getting a good/solid connection that will carry the amps required to the positive battery post with some brands of jumper cables. Most often you have to grab the small battery post screw with the side of the cable clamp jaws instead of having the jaws wrap around the post as they would with a larger car battery post, and there isn't enough contact surface to carry the amps required to spin the starter.

Edit:
You can connect the jumpers up and just leave things sit connected for 20-30 minutes and often that's enough to get it cranked, but I still think your battery needs to be load tested.
 

Last edited by cHarley; 01-11-2017 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:48 PM
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sorry for delay, many things going on in between opportunities to work on the bike like a flooded house thanks to my washer(yay samsung washers). So I took the battery in to get load tested and it tested good. Batteries plus charged it up and load tested it again to make sure it was good. Tested perfect. I brought it home and installed it and got the exact same single click and no turn from the starter. At this point I think it is the starter, but again im no expert just a weekend mechanic..... of my own vehicles lol
 


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