I ordered my new clutch and gasket set from amazon yesterday. Today I will make the tool..I cant wait to be singing this song next week..Thanks Jerrry.

 

I cut the PVC just under an inch then on the bench grinder I cut a deep groove on each
side a little wider than the strip of 1/4 inch think steel.
Make the grooves a little deeper than the steel so it fits in the PVC. You do this so you will have sufficient thread for the nut.
The PVC will be an inch, but the recess groves will have a little less than 3/4 of an inch.
If you feel you don't have enough thread, make the grooves a little deeper so the steel
bar will leave more thread exposed.
Don't be afraid to make the PVC grooves too deep because it's strong, just make sure you grab enough thread.

Make sure the hole you drill in the steel is no larger than the threaded shaft or it will bend the steel if the hole is too big.

Position in the bike, put a wrench on the nut, and a flat head screw driver on the shaft.
Oil the bottom of the nut and steel.
Hold the nut and turn the shaft with the screw driver.
If the release ring is still in the way, turn the shaft more.
When it's compressed enough the clip ring removes very easily, if it's not compressed enough, it won't come out.

Use a screw driver against the PVC and don't put pressure on the hub prongs, or you could damage them.

I did this myself, no help needed, the snap ring went in by hand, but you can use needle nose pliers. If you have any trouble, just like SlyDog says, compress some more.
The more you compress the more threads are holding.
It's been so long since I posted a pic, I forgot how or I would have.

 

New clutch in..I feel good..Thanks again Jerry for the tool making idea,it worked well. The only thing I did different is I cut pvc about 7/8 of an inch and ran two nuts down the threads to hold shaft still.My spring plate looked like new,which is good I guess.It is just better knowing that it is out of there. Lever pull is just a tad harder .. I'm happy with it. Ride on.

 

GOOD! What makes the job easier and faster, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a set of SAE hex sockets for $7 much better than Allen Wrenches.
I had them in metric, but Harley is SAE.
My plate looked like new, but on closer inspection all rivets were loose at 12,600 miles.

 

Just did mine this past weekend (Energy One). Used the home made tool too, and it worked great. Clutch feels good!

07 with 16k miles, rivets looked fine. Feel good knowing it's done. I had read others say "clutch might be slipping and you don't even know it"... think that applies to me it just feels like it grabs better. 15% stronger plate feels exactly the same to my clutch hand.

 

i find my first gear is a little grabby/ jerky now from slow starts, more or a clutch pull think then anything else. and sometime get a clutch squeal.

 

Mine's doing fine. The FIRST time I put it in first I got a "pang!" like someone hit a pot lid with a spoon. Scared me, but it's been all good since that one time.

I read others say the distinctive "clunk" when going into first gear went away with the upgrade, but mine's exactly the same to my ears. Clutch lever feels the same too. Only notable difference is it feels like it "grabs" WAY better.

 

I did the PVC tool as well. Worked like a breeze. It took longer to soak the new clutch plates in oil than it did to change it out.
My spring plate looked good as well, but I don't know how "tight" a new spring plate is. There has to be some play in the rivets to allow movement, but I'm glad it's out of the basket now.
Haven't had a chance to drive it yet as I'm still reassembling my bike from its winter rebuild, but I'm getting itchy.
Best part about that clutch job was the $3 clutch tool.

 

For sure. I was pumped to save the money on the tool as well. Feels extra cool to DIY a tool too!