Just joined the Forum and I need some help. I have a 2013 Forty Eight and my goal is to make it look like it was actually built in 1948. I have lots of questions. Any help you can provide would be much appreciated.
1. I removed all blinkers, front and rear. I purchased the model A tail light and side mount license bracket. The light has two wires, top is green for brake, bottom is black for Running light and license plate illumination. I have tried any and every wiring method and cannot get the bulbs to illuminate. Tried running them to one of the blinker connections (blue, violet, and black) and nothing illuminated. Used a tester and even had power when I touched the housing for each bulb on the inside, but the light still wouldn't illuminate. Tried using the m
ain harness (six wires) ran the green wire to the blue, black to red/yellow, and a ground from the mounting screw on the back tonthe black wire on the main harness. When I did that, Status was the same except the tester did not light up when I touched the bulb housing. I'm at a loss. No idea what to do next. All fuses are good. Anyone have any ideas? I've read every post on every forum and watched every YouTube video I could find. Please Help!!!
problem #2.
Russel with Exile is sending me my handle bars. I went with their traditional apes, twist clutch, and his brake handle and master cylinder. Wanted to have completely clean handle bars, but I had to keep the brake lever for my front brake. He fabricates a 50/50 master cylinder for the foot pedal to run front and rear brake, but he has to have the bike to fit it and it's a bit of a haul from Atlanta to LA! So I had to settle for "almost" clean handle bars. What I need advise on is what to use for a starter button and how to wire it and how to put a toggle on my headlight for high/low beam. I'm just going to use the key for my kill switch.
#3.
Issue #3.
My new bars are 1-1/4 with integrated risers. Well as you all know, the Forty Eight has a stinking integrated riser on the top triple tree clamp. If anyone has a top clamp without the ridiculous integrated riser, please let me know!!! I haven't found an aftermarket one that I like and they are also crazy expensive!
Here are a few pics of what I've done so far. My tins are being painted and I'll post a pic when they are finished. I'll also attach a pic of the assortment of parts I have that I'm wanting to unload. If you see something you want or need, make me an offer. I'll also be selling everything you see that is currently on my bike from the top triple tree up in about two weeks when my stuff from Exile arrives. BTW, my Springer came from Dana at Siouxicide Choppers. I highly recommend them if you are looking for a Springer!!!
As she sits now. 2013 Forty Eight. Full Screaming Eagle Upgrade, billet pegs, brass knuckle highway pegs, custom derby/timing/ primary covers, Python Echaust with wrap, Siouxicide Choppers Springer, 10" Apes with custom speedo bracket, Daymaker Headlight, and sidemount license bracket with Model A tail light.
Just posted some pics of what I've done so far and all the parts that are up for grabs too. Just have to wait for the moderator to approve. Lol
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; 03-27-2017 at 12:52 AM.
I'd be curious for a price on the stock handlebars and air cleaner cover for my roadster.
looks like you're in deep in that project. lots of time about to be invested. If you want to really duplicate a period correct bike I would suggest doing a lot of research. Hardtailed, fishtailed, floorboards, full fenders etc.
Sounds to me like the first thing you need is a multi-meter which, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, they have some cheap ones at Harbor Freight. You'll also have to get a Harley Davidson Mechanics manual for your make and model (about $67) from the HD dealer and is well worth every penny in the log run. With the multi-meter you can test the continuity of the bulb and the wires/circuit of the light fixture you are trying to use, including the ground to the bulb housing socket. Then, once you are sure that the circuits are good from the wire connection end to and through the bulb and too ground, you can look up exactly what wires you need for the running light/license plate light and the brake light using the extensive wiring diagrams inside the back of the Mechanics Manual. After you decide what wires you are going to tie into and where, you should test to make sure there is power from those wires to ground via the multi-meter.
Can't help too much with the handle bar stuff other than .....
You could get a two position rotary switch and drill a hole in the headlight housing (at a location of your choice) and run a hot wire (found in your Mechanics Manual's extensive wiring diagrams) up to the headlight housing and to the power input to the rotary switches hot side and the two other connections would be to your low and high beam wires connected you your headlight bulb. Then all you have to do is connect the ground lead to the inside of the housing or run a ground wire up to the housing as well.
As far as the starter button, that all depends on where you are going to mount it as to what button you will need use. As far as wiring, just find the wires from the old handlebar switches (again, found in your Mechanics Manual's extensive wiring diagrams) and run those to the (either push button or spring loaded rocker) switch you decide on and connect the two leads from the original switch to the new one.
I have the same tail light. I had to run a separate ground wire from the screw in back of the tail light to my frame to get it to work.
I have checked all connections, continuity, used new bulbs, even wired it straight to the battery. Still Nothing!
Originally Posted by Hayabusasteve
I'd be curious for a price on the stock handlebars and air cleaner cover for my roadster.
looks like you're in deep in that project. lots of time about to be invested. If you want to really duplicate a period correct bike I would suggest doing a lot of research. Hardtailed, fishtailed, floorboards, full fenders etc.
Bike is already hard tailed, but I had back surgery and gotta put the shocks back on. Paint is coming back Thursday and after that all I have to do is get the hand shifter made. Shoot me a message and I'll make you a deal on the bars and stage 1.
Originally Posted by DOMAPOI
Sounds to me like the first thing you need is a multi-meter which, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, they have some cheap ones at Harbor Freight. You'll also have to get a Harley Davidson Mechanics manual for your make and model (about $67) from the HD dealer and is well worth every penny in the log run. With the multi-meter you can test the continuity of the bulb and the wires/circuit of the light fixture you are trying to use, including the ground to the bulb housing socket. Then, once you are sure that the circuits are good from the wire connection end to and through the bulb and too ground, you can look up exactly what wires you need for the running light/license plate light and the brake light using the extensive wiring diagrams inside the back of the Mechanics Manual. After you decide what wires you are going to tie into and where, you should test to make sure there is power from those wires to ground via the multi-meter.
Can't help too much with the handle bar stuff other than .....
You could get a two position rotary switch and drill a hole in the headlight housing (at a location of your choice) and run a hot wire (found in your Mechanics Manual's extensive wiring diagrams) up to the headlight housing and to the power input to the rotary switches hot side and the two other connections would be to your low and high beam wires connected you your headlight bulb. Then all you have to do is connect the ground lead to the inside of the housing or run a ground wire up to the housing as well.
As far as the starter button, that all depends on where you are going to mount it as to what button you will need use. As far as wiring, just find the wires from the old handlebar switches (again, found in your Mechanics Manual's extensive wiring diagrams) and run those to the (either push button or spring loaded rocker) switch you decide on and connect the two leads from the original switch to the new one.
Got all the manuals and charts. Put a voltmeter on everything and all connections are good. Only thing I can think of now is that the sockets are bad on the light.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; 03-29-2017 at 12:13 PM.
My two cents. Take the light off and hook it directly to a battery that is known good and not on the bike. Then you will know if the light itself is the issue. It may need a ground wire, as the ground may be the housing, if that is the case you may need to sand off all paint where it bolts on. For a start switch you can always purchase a solenoid push button start switch and just use that. Even if you wire the starter different it can always be used as a back up start button.
I'd be curious for a price on the stock handlebars and air cleaner cover for my roadster.
looks like you're in deep in that project. lots of time about to be invested. If you want to really duplicate a period correct bike I would suggest doing a lot of research. Hardtailed, fishtailed, floorboards, full fenders etc.
I have sold quite a few of these parts. I still have the Ness Stage 1 and the handlebars if you are interested. Make me an offer
03-27-2017, 12:12 AM
