Rewiring help/throttle help
#1
Rewiring help/throttle help
Hey,
I have a few problems I need help in... I a have a 2009 Nightster XL1200 and I am trying to do my own wiring (big mistake) since I don't know crap about wiring. Well all started off good and now the following.
1. Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?
2. Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good.
3. Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?
4. Neutral light doesn't turn on?
5. Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?
Ok let me tell you guys what I have done so far.
LEFT HAND CONTROLS:
I cut all wires including (Clutch Interlock, Horn, Left turn, High/Low) I eliminated them completely. I hard wired my headlight using only the blue white and black wire, I didn't use the yellow. Is that a problem? I removed the headlight connector and the left control connector. I taped all wires from switches except the ones I hardwired to the headlight.
RIGHT HAND CONTROLS:
Trying to remove idle/throttle cables from housing, should I just brake the housing? I have not cut any wires as of yet, although when I push down on the front stop light button brake lights dim. Brake lights seem bright as if I was hitting the brake constantly. Also when I push down on the foot brake, nothing happens.
Also removed the little wire harness for the front turn signals, cut the wires and taped them.
I have all wires connected to the same color wire, all cramped and taped. Start/Run switches have been soldered to new switches and taped.
Vapor canister hose connected to the intake area was disconnected but I don't think that would make a difference.
Any help and or advise would help greatly!
Thanks!
I have a few problems I need help in... I a have a 2009 Nightster XL1200 and I am trying to do my own wiring (big mistake) since I don't know crap about wiring. Well all started off good and now the following.
1. Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?
2. Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good.
3. Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?
4. Neutral light doesn't turn on?
5. Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?
Ok let me tell you guys what I have done so far.
LEFT HAND CONTROLS:
I cut all wires including (Clutch Interlock, Horn, Left turn, High/Low) I eliminated them completely. I hard wired my headlight using only the blue white and black wire, I didn't use the yellow. Is that a problem? I removed the headlight connector and the left control connector. I taped all wires from switches except the ones I hardwired to the headlight.
RIGHT HAND CONTROLS:
Trying to remove idle/throttle cables from housing, should I just brake the housing? I have not cut any wires as of yet, although when I push down on the front stop light button brake lights dim. Brake lights seem bright as if I was hitting the brake constantly. Also when I push down on the foot brake, nothing happens.
Also removed the little wire harness for the front turn signals, cut the wires and taped them.
I have all wires connected to the same color wire, all cramped and taped. Start/Run switches have been soldered to new switches and taped.
Vapor canister hose connected to the intake area was disconnected but I don't think that would make a difference.
Any help and or advise would help greatly!
Thanks!
Last edited by bdragon158; 07-03-2009 at 09:54 AM.
#2
The first thing you need to do is add some text to your signature to clue us in as to what year/model bike your talking about.
Problems on which I can comment.
1. "Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?"
Does your bike need to have the clutch in to start?
2. "Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good."
I would check the switches first. Maybe one of them has gone bad. Then check continuity on all wires.
3. "Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?"
A constant brake light usually means that the button on the switch for the front brake broke off while you were messing with the front controls. You can fix that by glueing on a little plastic (or whatever) nib.
4. "Neutral light doesn't turn on?"
Good. It's a crutch and if it's anything like mine it gave false readings anyway.
5. "Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?"
Don't connect the idle cable. It isn't absolutely nessassery. It was added as a "safety feature".
The yellow wire to the headlight is for the low beam (on an '04 - '06). But then you already know that because you have a manual and schematic, right?
The throttle/idle cables just pull out of the control housing. But you already know that since you have a manual, right?
Problems on which I can comment.
1. "Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?"
Does your bike need to have the clutch in to start?
2. "Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good."
I would check the switches first. Maybe one of them has gone bad. Then check continuity on all wires.
3. "Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?"
A constant brake light usually means that the button on the switch for the front brake broke off while you were messing with the front controls. You can fix that by glueing on a little plastic (or whatever) nib.
4. "Neutral light doesn't turn on?"
Good. It's a crutch and if it's anything like mine it gave false readings anyway.
5. "Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?"
Don't connect the idle cable. It isn't absolutely nessassery. It was added as a "safety feature".
The yellow wire to the headlight is for the low beam (on an '04 - '06). But then you already know that because you have a manual and schematic, right?
The throttle/idle cables just pull out of the control housing. But you already know that since you have a manual, right?
#3
The first thing you need to do is add some text to your signature to clue us in as to what year/model bike your talking about.
Problems on which I can comment.
1. "Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?"
Does your bike need to have the clutch in to start?
2. "Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good."
I would check the switches first. Maybe one of them has gone bad. Then check continuity on all wires.
3. "Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?"
A constant brake light usually means that the button on the switch for the front brake broke off while you were messing with the front controls. You can fix that by glueing on a little plastic (or whatever) nib.
4. "Neutral light doesn't turn on?"
Good. It's a crutch and if it's anything like mine it gave false readings anyway.
5. "Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?"
Don't connect the idle cable. It isn't absolutely nessassery. It was added as a "safety feature".
The yellow wire to the headlight is for the low beam (on an '04 - '06). But then you already know that because you have a manual and schematic, right?
The throttle/idle cables just pull out of the control housing. But you already know that since you have a manual, right?
Problems on which I can comment.
1. "Clutch Interlock Button, what will it effect if I just cut the wires and tape them up?"
Does your bike need to have the clutch in to start?
2. "Relocated and rewired Run/Start button. I have a push and toggle switch, everything was working but now it won't start and all connections are touching. All fuses are good, no corrosion, battery good."
I would check the switches first. Maybe one of them has gone bad. Then check continuity on all wires.
3. "Brake light is constantly on, when I hit the front stop button they dim? Foot brake doesn't activate brake lights nor dim them like the hand brake does?"
A constant brake light usually means that the button on the switch for the front brake broke off while you were messing with the front controls. You can fix that by glueing on a little plastic (or whatever) nib.
4. "Neutral light doesn't turn on?"
Good. It's a crutch and if it's anything like mine it gave false readings anyway.
5. "Bought a single wire throttle from Flyrite and I am a bit confused as to how I am supposed to hook both idle/throttle to a "universal single wire throttle assembly"?"
Don't connect the idle cable. It isn't absolutely nessassery. It was added as a "safety feature".
The yellow wire to the headlight is for the low beam (on an '04 - '06). But then you already know that because you have a manual and schematic, right?
The throttle/idle cables just pull out of the control housing. But you already know that since you have a manual, right?
Ok brake light, thing is I am going to disconnect the front stop switch that was located in the housing. I wonder if I need to replace the rear switch? Neutral I guess I can live with not a big deal, its more of a why did this happen. The clutch interlock I guess is also another one of them safety features, I just have to make sure I engage the clutch every time I start the bike. Well I am going to keep messing with all the disaster I have made and hopefully I all works out. Thanks and cheers!
#4
#5
You can experiment with the mods with the botched up wiring to see if you can get things working properly. I do not know your mechanical background and you might find the problem.
Myself, I would probably invest in a new wiring harness, and attempt to get everything working properly again. I try to keep a bike running and looking like new as long as possible.
Myself, I would probably invest in a new wiring harness, and attempt to get everything working properly again. I try to keep a bike running and looking like new as long as possible.
#6
Aw yes I have a 2009 Nightster XL and yes I have a manuel. Thing is the manuel is crap, I mean it helps a great bit but it also lacks on things as well.
Sorry if my comments seem harsh, but it sounds like you've worked yourself into what Clint Eastwood would refer to as a Cluster F**k.
Last edited by cHarley; 07-03-2009 at 01:11 PM.
#7
I've offered a lot of help and advice here over the last couple of years but, in your case, it looks to me like you're way in, both over your head and abilities. The HD Service Manual is far from "crap". It does however, require and assume that the person using the manual have at least a decent basic mechanical aptitude, and in your case, the ability to read and understand electrical schematic drawings.
Sorry if my comments seem harsh, but it sounds like you've worked yourself into what Clint Eastwood would refer to as a Cluster F**k.
Sorry if my comments seem harsh, but it sounds like you've worked yourself into what Clint Eastwood would refer to as a Cluster F**k.
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#8
You know you are right, I thought about it... but then again how else will I learn. As a matter of fact all is well know, except for engine turns but seems to lake power to start. So I am charging battery overnight, all fuses are good connections are tight. We shall see.
#9
You can experiment with the mods with the botched up wiring to see if you can get things working properly. I do not know your mechanical background and you might find the problem.
Myself, I would probably invest in a new wiring harness, and attempt to get everything working properly again. I try to keep a bike running and looking like new as long as possible.
Myself, I would probably invest in a new wiring harness, and attempt to get everything working properly again. I try to keep a bike running and looking like new as long as possible.
#10
I've offered a lot of help and advice here over the last couple of years but, in your case, it looks to me like you're way in, both over your head and abilities. The HD Service Manual is far from "crap". It does however, require and assume that the person using the manual have at least a decent basic mechanical aptitude, and in your case, the ability to read and understand electrical schematic drawings.
Sorry if my comments seem harsh, but it sounds like you've worked yourself into what Clint Eastwood would refer to as a Cluster F**k.
Sorry if my comments seem harsh, but it sounds like you've worked yourself into what Clint Eastwood would refer to as a Cluster F**k.
Thanks