I bought these triple trees on recommendation of a couple buddies of mine. One has them on his jap bike, and the other on an older sporty. They both LOVE 'em and said there's really not much difference in handling. They're made from solid billet aluminum and have a 6 deg. rake. It shuold push the front wheel out there just enough. They're also a bit wider between the tubes than stock.
Once I get them installed I'll decide if I want to go with longer fork tubes.

The website is www.bikercom.com

[IMG]local://upfiles/5472/F6E000D9E78F4302860FFD12AC89F946.jpg[/IMG]

 

they look NICE!!! cant wait to see how much they rake it out

 

I know. That's my biggest question right now. Once I get 'em installed I want to use the extra space between the fork tubes to get some sort of dual headlight set-up. I think I'm going to make my own braket, if I can't find something I like.

 

well you cant please everyone, i'm one of them. I saw a sporty at a bike show that had a fake-rake kit, I thought it was way too cheezy. the head is at one angle and the forks at a different angle, looked stupid to me.
but as long as you like it, thats what should matter

 

One thing to have to be very careful about when adding additional rake is increasing, or decreasing, the bike's 'trail dimension'. There is a very small window you need to stay in dealing with the rake geometry, which should be in the 3.5" to 4.0" range.

Unless you actually "chop" the bike (cut the frame to add rake to the neck) you can run into trail problems if you go to extreme using only 'raked trees'.

When you add rake angle to the neck it increases trail dimension. By the same token, if you add rake angle to the tree the trail dimension is decreased. Doing either of these by itself to add 'rake' will change the trail geometry which will have an impact on high speed handling and stability.

The ideal way to keep the ideal trail dimension when adding rake is to add rake to both the neck angle and tree angle. By doing this you will end up with a cancelling effect on the trail dimension.

That is why the "chopper kits" you see (such as AME or Seeger) add rake to both the neck and tree. Without cutting and chopping the bike there is no other safe way to add addition rake to a bike without having a negative impact on it's trail dimension.

Here is a closeup of the AME system to show how they can get an additon 14 degrees rake safely by using an adaptor to increase the tree angle. The tree and neck angles offset each other to keep the stock trail dimension.

 

Help me out here. I'm fairly literate, but I don't understand how the "adapter" is any different that just the raked tree. The angle of the "neck" which is a welded to the frame, hasn't changed at all.
Doesn't the lower portion where the adapter is, end up being the same as the lower section?

 

The way the kit is engineered, rake is 'added' to both the neck angle and the tree angle, which offset each other.

Here is part of an explanation I copied to maybe give you a clearer picture as to how this is possible.

You can also check out the "rake and trail" information at the bottom of the link shown below.

"The adapter moves the pivot point of the lower triple tree approx 1.5" forward from the bottom of the neck. The top bearing is similar to a ball joint and allows the top tree to sit at the new angle and rotate at the same time. The bottom bearing is a standard bearing. This combination is what changes the center-line of the steering head (the red line shows the approx. location of the new steering head angle). A bike which simply relies on a raked or adjustable tree cannot achieve more then 5 or 6 deg of additional rake before the trial becomes so small that the bikes handling will become dangerous".

http://www.chopper-kit-usa.com/rake_trail.htm

 

Oh *%&^$&#@*!! I got an email from the company I ordered from saying the parts are on back order. I think I might order from someone else.

 

go with the chopper kit. it makes sence
BRILLIANT!

 

Do not install raked trees on an otherwise stock bike. OldFenderGuy has told you the basics. If you don't want to actually chop the frame, then look for a kit that moves the lower bearing, or install raked cups. If you get the trail much below 3 - 4 inches yer gonna land on yer head when the piece o' crap goes into a speed wobble. There are kits that will give you rake and keep the correct trail. They are the only safe way to do this mod without cuttin' on the frame. The trees you show are properly used on a frame that has been raked, in order to decrease the trail back to a reasonable and safe length.

Besides, to us ol' chop pilots installing raked trees on a stock frame is a no class way of pseudo-choppin'. The two different angles are not aesthetically pleasing to the eye. They immediately draw the eye's attention and that detracts from the overall look of the bike. They don't flow! They're clunky! Add all that together and you end up with a world-class case of cheesiness.

And that's fact, followed by my opinion, backed by 33+ years of chop buildin', pilotin', and appreciatin'!