I have a starting problem with my 2002 1200 Sportster I am hoping someone can help solve as the major dealer next to me can't. My Sportster will only start when it wants. The plugs, plug wires, voltage regulator and ignition coil have all been replaced. The Sportster will sometimes turn over but will not fire, if you crank too long will load up with fuel and backfire out of the pipe. When it wouldn't start I could toggle the kill switch 4 or 5 times and it would fire up. Why not replace the kill switch. I took to the local dealer and they replaced the kill switch ($270 labor!) still wouldn't start. After two months at the shop they said it now starts every time. I go to pickup push it outside and it does not start! I toggle the new kill switch about 4 times right in front of the service guy and it fires right up. It is back at the dealer, please help to identify this electrical problem.

 

Well, you are on the 'right track', as in, they are 'mystifying', electrical issues, THAT IS.

W/O actually being there, with meter in paw, almost impossible to diagnose.

I would hope to shout, (BUT don't count on it!!!) that they actually checked ALL connections, whilst they had it there. BUT that's where I'd "start".
IF you do not have one, get a shop manual for it, so you can identify, and locate ALL the connections.
As long as you are putting your grubs on them, take the time, to put a dabble of di-electric grease, on each one. Putzy, I KNOW, but you DO SEE, how "F"in' frustrating, electrical probs, can indeed, be. This li'l morsel of info, can eliminate 95% of them !!!! I either 'scoop' a li'l into the 'male' connector cover, or 'dip' the male connector, into the mouth of the tube.

Once all connections have been checked, see if prob STILL exists. If so, then "my guess", you have a pinched/broken wire, somewhere, in 'that' circuit. BUT diagnosing it, is nothing more, than just a process of elimination. BUT you have to ACTUALLY eliminate them, NOT just speculate, and "assume" the dealer, did it.

And 'NOW' folx, you know why, wrenches are so dammt reluctant to 'quote you a price', for electrical repairs. They can take 12 minutes, or 12 hours, and NO ONE really knows, until it is "fixed".

No offense to your dealer, but 2 MONTHS ???? I believe, I'd be using a li'l different tone of "keyboard", IF'N it were mine.
Ketch me drift ???

 

Troubleshooting 101.

1st = agree with Gump.

2nd = you have to have fuel/air/spark to have internal combustion. Sounds like an intermittent no-spark. When it's cranking but not starting, verify no-spark. (sounds like you have fuel and we know you have air )

3d = get a manual with the complete wiring schematic and look for every circuit that controls spark including the kill switch. Figure out a way to over ride or bypass each thing. since it really does sound like something relating to the kill switch, see if you can bypass the kill swithch. If the condition continues with the k/s out of the loop replace the wires with known good wiring and try again.

4th = when you get it figured out - go kick the mechanic's ..... nevermind.

Process of elimination and one step at a time.

my $0.02


.............. Jim

 

I gotta agree with Da Gump. Check all your connections, especially all four battery connections, (two on battery, one on starter, & the ground to the frame). Check the connections of the battery cables where the wire goes into the connector/lead, as it's been noted that sometimes the crimp & solder (sp?) connection where the wire to connector went bad & wasn't allowing enough juice to start the bike. Last fall I had the original cable finally go bad to the starter go bad like that......The connector & nut to the starter was tight, but the wire of the cable was able to pull out of that connector....New cable & no issue since. Oh, and check the 90* connection to the coil. Remove that 90* connection, give it a good squeeze to tighten it up a bit so you actually here it making a noise as it slides back on over the grooves. Test after each electrical connector check 'til you figure it out.

 

I had a Sportster that did the same thing. Looks like you've replaced everything except the ignition module inside the round cover on the lower right side of the engine. That was what finally solved the problem for me.

 

Another example of why they are called stealers, should have just jumpered the kill switch to verify that was it, instead of relacing and end up with the same problem. A length of wire with gator clips on each end will prove out any suspect wire or switch. Shotgunning-aka-keep replacing parts till its fixed is a sure sign of a dealers techs that really don't have a clue. For petes sake, its not rocket science, point A, to point B.

 

I F*ng HATE electrical problems. Good luck with your diagnosing. I agree with Grump and his senile, yet knowledgable typing.

 

Agree with Gump and will add one step. When you have the connectors apart take a meter and check each pin to ground. (might not be a bad idea to check each for power as well (turn the ignition and kill switch on). Look for 0 ohms(or close to it) or open when checking to ground, 12V (or close to it) checking for power.
If you find a pin that fluctuates or is somewhere in between follow that wire to the other end, looking for damage and also check resistance down that length (it should be 0). If not the wire could be broken/corroded inside the insulation.

 

You can't fix electical problems on the internet, if your Harley dealer is to stupid to repair then take it to an Indy and have them look at it.
I had a problem on my 2000 and it took 2 years to find it, it turned out to be bad neg cable on the battery, it caused all kinds of weird problems, I finally looked at the wiring diaghram for the bike and found the only thing all the problems had in common was one or the other battery cables.

 

If you're absolutely certain that toggling the Kill switch is the key--it's not a coincidence and simply hitting the Start button four times in succession would accomplish the same thing--then you have to ask yourself if the Kill switch is faulty. I know. The dealer says it was replaced. Do you know for a fact it was? Do you know if it was replaced with a bad switch? Case in point: I had a problem with my cruise control. Dealer replaced cruise module with a 'known good' module but problem persisted. Dealer put original module back in, stating they'd need to consult The Factory for guidance. I took the bike to an Indy. Indy found the original cruise module was bad.

1skrewsloose's method of jumpering across switch ought to tell you if it's the switch, or not. Most probable from your description is an intermittent Kill switch and the dealer tech screwed the pooch on it. No guarantee this is it, but given the info., and symptom, it's the highest probability. Good luck.