'04 & up XL DIY stator replacement
#1
'04 & up XL DIY stator replacement
i replaced a stator on my friend's '06 XL1200C and thought i'd share how i did it.it'll take two people,though
1)drain primary fluid-5/8" socket (also disconnect the neg battery cable)
2)loosen chain adjuster all the way-allen head socket and crescent wrench
3)loosen clutch cable and pull clips that hold the cable to the frame-15mm and 13mm wrenches
4)remove derby cover and lock-nut and spring-T-27 torx socket
5)turn clockwise clutch adjuster stud until ramp pops all the way out-flat blade screwdriver
6)remove clutch ramp from cable
7)remove shifter arm from shaft (put in neutral b 4 removal)-7 allen(i think)
8)remove primary cover-16 bolts 3/16" allen socket(i think)
9)remove large nut on the crank snout-1 1/8" socket,breaker bar and 6' cheater pipe.i wedged a plastic door trim removal tool inbetween the teeth on the crank sprocket (on the top) and the chain.have somebody sit on the bike holding the brakes and loosen nut.it's right hand threaded.
10)pull magnetic basket/crank sprocket off crank snout
11)remove 4 bolts holding stator to crank case-T-20 torx
12)unplug stator to regulator harness on right front of frame(circular plug)
13)unbolt wire protectant shield from crank case-8mm socket (or 5/16" socket)
14)pull plug and wires through right side covers and through crank case
15) clean all bolt/screw threads with wire wheel or wire brush
16) reverse procedure to install new stator assembly.
17)remember to torque the large nut on the crank snout to 240 ft.lbs. and don't be shy with the red loktite.the wedge goes on the bottom of the chain and crank sprocket when tightening.make sure to leave the chain on the sprocket while removing the sprocket and put chain on before installation of said sprocket.
hope this helps
i also posted this in the DIY section,but thought i'd share with my fellow Sporty people
1)drain primary fluid-5/8" socket (also disconnect the neg battery cable)
2)loosen chain adjuster all the way-allen head socket and crescent wrench
3)loosen clutch cable and pull clips that hold the cable to the frame-15mm and 13mm wrenches
4)remove derby cover and lock-nut and spring-T-27 torx socket
5)turn clockwise clutch adjuster stud until ramp pops all the way out-flat blade screwdriver
6)remove clutch ramp from cable
7)remove shifter arm from shaft (put in neutral b 4 removal)-7 allen(i think)
8)remove primary cover-16 bolts 3/16" allen socket(i think)
9)remove large nut on the crank snout-1 1/8" socket,breaker bar and 6' cheater pipe.i wedged a plastic door trim removal tool inbetween the teeth on the crank sprocket (on the top) and the chain.have somebody sit on the bike holding the brakes and loosen nut.it's right hand threaded.
10)pull magnetic basket/crank sprocket off crank snout
11)remove 4 bolts holding stator to crank case-T-20 torx
12)unplug stator to regulator harness on right front of frame(circular plug)
13)unbolt wire protectant shield from crank case-8mm socket (or 5/16" socket)
14)pull plug and wires through right side covers and through crank case
15) clean all bolt/screw threads with wire wheel or wire brush
16) reverse procedure to install new stator assembly.
17)remember to torque the large nut on the crank snout to 240 ft.lbs. and don't be shy with the red loktite.the wedge goes on the bottom of the chain and crank sprocket when tightening.make sure to leave the chain on the sprocket while removing the sprocket and put chain on before installation of said sprocket.
hope this helps
i also posted this in the DIY section,but thought i'd share with my fellow Sporty people
#4
#5
i dunno...this is his 3rd stator...1st one was factory and failed @ 7K,then he had Brian's HD in Pa. install another one...10K later (17K) his was toast...but this new one looks to be better crafted/designed.where the wires go in to the stator wheel itself are about 1.5"-2" apart instead of 3/8" apart.the one i removed looked like it caught fire/burned right where the wires go into the pick up wheel
Last edited by notfried; 11-27-2009 at 11:44 AM.
#6
It seems HD designed the stator to be a 25,000 mile consumable.
#7
No need for that tool on a stator job on an 04-06 Sportster. The complete clutch assembly comes off the trans main shaft with a snap ring. You only need the clutch compressor tool if you want to separate the clutch plates for replacement.
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