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Any experienced with bolting in SE .536 cams

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Old 08-03-2010, 06:40 PM
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Default Any experienced with bolting in SE .536 cams

Has anyone put these cams in there 2004 or later 1200C motors with the stock XB heads . There seems to be a lot of controversy over if they are or aren't '' bolt ins ''. Do you need to replace the pistons or have your stock pistons worked.'' deeper exhaust valve relief " or even the .551's if you did them.
 

Last edited by Iron lHorse; 08-03-2010 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:22 AM
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This is something I have done alot of research on. So cam's seem like a huge deal for the 88's and 96's but no one ever mentions them for 1200's. I will watch this thread intently. Good luck man, maybe you will be the ground breaker. HA HA
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:35 AM
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I have the 536s in my bike but im not sure if they would fit. I know the stock beehive springs are strong enough though. I want to say they should be fine because with my bigger valve i still had a lot of clearance as far as valve overlap. Hope this helped some. I know someone who would know though. Give Dan Dunn an NRHS an email and im sure he will help you out.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:36 AM
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I forgot to mention my pistons have huge valve pockets though.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:41 AM
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The 536 cams are 'bolt in' for the 2004+ 1200 Sportsters, and for that matter, so are the higher lift 551 Screamin' Eagle "E" cams.

For what it's worth, I'm currently running the 551 "E" cams in my 2005 1200C and they are a great, high torque cam..

Here is some additional information from the NRHS site;


"SCREAMING EAGLE EVOLUTION SPORTSTER GRINDS

In milder Sportster/Buell engines, we have tremendous success with Screaming Eagle cams. The Screaming Eagle bolt-ins (stock in many Buells) are the best bolt-in grind we've ever tested in these engines. Moving up the scale, we have repeatedly made 104-107hp with SE .536's and Stage 3 headwork in 1250 kits. Both of these cams work fine with stock pushrods, lifters, and rockers, too, keeping the costs down. All things considered, these cams perform well and are a terrific value.



The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."


 
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by OldFenderGuy
The 536 cams are 'bolt in' for the 2004+ 1200 Sportsters, and for that matter, so are the higher lift 551 Screamin' Eagle "E" cams.

For what it's worth, I'm currently running the 551 "E" cams in my 2005 1200C and they are a great, high torque cam..

Here is some additional information from the NRHS site;


"SCREAMING EAGLE EVOLUTION SPORTSTER GRINDS

In milder Sportster/Buell engines, we have tremendous success with Screaming Eagle cams. The Screaming Eagle bolt-ins (stock in many Buells) are the best bolt-in grind we've ever tested in these engines. Moving up the scale, we have repeatedly made 104-107hp with SE .536's and Stage 3 headwork in 1250 kits. Both of these cams work fine with stock pushrods, lifters, and rockers, too, keeping the costs down. All things considered, these cams perform well and are a terrific value.



The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."


OFG When you put the .551s in. Was your top end ALL STOCK ? In other words did you just open the gearcase cover remove the old cams and install the new ones and start the bike. This is what I'm calling 'bolt in's. Your NRHS info states that the " Both of these cams work fine with STOCK pushrod, lifters, and rockers . But did not say anything about the STOCK pistons. When you purchased the cams and read the instructions sheet that they came with. What did it say on this matter? As in additional requirements or adjustments. THANKS
 

Last edited by Iron lHorse; 08-06-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by spuddogg
This is something I have done alot of research on. So cam's seem like a huge deal for the 88's and 96's but no one ever mentions them for 1200's. I will watch this thread intently. Good luck man, maybe you will be the ground breaker. HA HA
Yeah your telling me. It's like nobody tried to do this mod or it's all top secret . The only cams I can guarantee are BOLT-INS are the .497s. The thing is if I'm going to pull the heads to clay the valves for the 536s I might as well just pull the heads and put the SE pistons in.
 
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Iron lHorse
OFG When you put the .551s in. Was your top end ALL STOCK ? In other words did you just open the gearcase cover remove the old cams and install the new ones and start the bike. This is what I'm calling 'bolt in's. Your NRHS info states that the " Both of these cams work fine with STOCK pushrod, lifters, and rockers . But did not say anything about the STOCK pistons. When you purchased the cams and read the instructions sheet that they came with. What did it say on this matter? As in additional requirements or adjustments. THANKS
"Bolt In" means just that, "All Stock Motor".

But truly tho, For the money you pay for cams for the horsepower gains. Unless you have the heads ported, its not worth the money.
 
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
"Bolt In" means just that, "All Stock Motor".

But truly tho, For the money you pay for cams for the horsepower gains. Unless you have the heads ported, its not worth the money.
If i'm doing the work myself the price of the parts are nothing.The problem is if there not bolt-ins then you might need a little bit of experience with things like measuring cam end play, installing shims,milling a spot or two on your cases, claying your valves,ect... The problem is there,s a lot of misunderstood things said about the way these cams are fitted with the 2004 and later 1200 C motors. I went to two stealers today and they both said they are NOT bolt-ins. and both said that I would need the SE springs, pistons to go with the cams plus some milling to get the cams in the cases. Watch would take 12 to 15 hours to do. One of them also said to just do the SE pistons for the better compression ratio.
 
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:44 AM
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Buy your cams from NRHS and Dan will give you all the real info you need.

SCREAMING EAGLE EVOLUTION SPORTSTER GRINDS

In milder Sportster/Buell engines, we have tremendous success with Screaming Eagle cams. The Screaming Eagle bolt-ins (stock in many Buells) are the best bolt-in grind we've ever tested in these engines. Moving up the scale, we have repeatedly made 104-107hp with SE .536's and Stage 3 headwork in 1250 kits. Both of these cams work fine with stock pushrods, lifters, and rockers, too, keeping the costs down. All things considered, these cams perform well and are a terrific value.



The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models.



New for 2005 is the SE .575 lift cam set for XL's. Our testing has shown this to be an excellent grind for street performance use, with the potential for the same or more power across the rpm range as compared to the SE 536, but like the SE 536, it's valvetrain dynamics are good enough for an everyday street motor, without the need for excessively high spring pressures and the expensive supporting cast of valvetrain components that goes with it. See our Tech pages for more info.
 

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