this might be stupid, but i've done searches and didn't quite find what i was looking for...
i recently had the rear wheel off of my '06 1200c for a tire change (old one was totally bald and wouldn't hold air for more than a day, so it was way overdue), and just re-installed it myself. after reading the manual and thread posts on how to re-align the wheel with a straightened hanger and a rubber gromet (which seems like a pretty crude way to do it, but it was in the manual, so whatever), i got it as close as i can with the "measuring tool." i don't have a belt tension measuring tool, but the guys at the shop who installed the new tire on the wheel (where they build race bikes) acted like and told me it was totally unnecessary. i have the tension set to what feels pretty much like how it was before, and i've read all the accounts of being able to twist it about 45 degrees or so (yes, ideally i need to go and buy the tool), but now when i'm taking off from a stop, the clutch engages with almost NO play. i can barely ease my left hand grip and the bike wants to lurch forward.
so, my question: does this mean that the belt is too tight? i've read accounts of bearing wear and whatnot in the trans because of uneven tension on the belt, or it being too tight, and now i'm paranoid. any suggestions greatly appreciated. my apologies for the long-winded nature of this post...

 

belt deflection - 1/4 to 5/16" on a xl.....c and Hugger
5/16 to 3/8" on stnd and sport
with 10 lbs of pressure.

I know the coathanger thing sounds crude.... though it works. If you are worried about the alignment, roll through some sand on pavement. If you can see the tread marks... good to go. If not, the scoot maybe tracking off a lil bit.

 

Your drive belt has nothing to do with the clutch, the clutch simply needs adjusting.
Using your thumb and index finger to twist the belt is a surprisingly accurate way to check for proper tension. 45* of twist is what you want.

Cheating on your next tire change:
Here's how you can make your next rear change easier, assuming the rear is aligned correctly and the belt properly tensioned to start with.

When you're ready to loosen the axle tensioners, first mark each nut with a marker for position reference. Next you want to back off each nut approx 12 turns. I do EXACTLY 6 on one, six on the other, and then repeat again for 12 total turns on each adjuster nut.

When your ready to reinstall the wheel, simply reverse the above process using exactly the same number of turns in the opposite direction, and your alignment and belt tension will be just like it was before you started.

Double check your reference marks to make sure they are in the original position.
.

 

I just changed the rear tire on my Nightster. I used a dial caliper to measure from the back of the nut to the end of the adjuster bolt before I removed the wheel. I had .790 inch on both. Although everyone's measurement will be a bit different, that is what worked for me.

 

I just used a metal ruler and went with 3/4" or .75 .... 101/128" or .790 is just a smidgen (slight turn) different from what I use.

 

Maybe I am doing it wrong, but all I do is take the axle out, remove the rear caliper etc, and push the rear tire towards the front of the bike to release the belt tension. I slide the belt off the sprocket, and pull the rim/tire out. Reverse is the same. I don't touch the belt tension/axle adjusters at all. Once it's reinstalled I double check alignment and tension and roll on.

 

I'd really like to see your wheel and axle re-installation procedure with the tensioners still tight.........

 

Done it this way twice now, and haven't had a problem (knock on wood). Tensioners are both tight upon reinstallation. I always double check alignment using the coat hanger/o-ring after, and check belt tension as well. Both times have been spot on, no adjustments needed. Picked this method up on the XL Forum (I think) and it's a pretty simple way to do it. Might not be the "book way" or the "correct way", but I don't really give a ****.

 

thanks, guys - the responses are much appreciated, and now i'm feeling much less skittish about all of this. i re-aligned the wheel, re-adjusted the tensioners with the same amount of turns, and had the bike out this last weekend and put about 50 miles on it. felt great. as for the clutch thing, maybe i'm just not used to immediate traction... cHarley - great tips, and that's exactly what i'm going to do next time. once again, thanks very much guys -

jack

 

Glad i could help.